MEP001
Well-known member
Your Hydrominder could be bad. Just worked on one today for what might be your issue, the valve wasn't opening fully and was filling the tank so slow that it wouldn't create suction on the soap. A valve kit fixed it.
Have an old hydrospray system
- Thread starter Kyle1
- Start date
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
Soft water? I believe FL water supply is soap killingly hard (7-10 GPG) to extremely hard (over 14 GPG).
Kip solenoids from the “Old HydroSpray” days may have swollen plunger tips. They operate electrically but the swollen plunger tips do not open to the valve port. These old tips are black in color.
Kip solenoid repair kit from KR feature the red plunger that don't swell.
Also, the Kip solenoid manifolds are likely equipped with integrated metering valves. Make sure they are wide open.
Kip solenoids from the “Old HydroSpray” days may have swollen plunger tips. They operate electrically but the swollen plunger tips do not open to the valve port. These old tips are black in color.
Kip solenoid repair kit from KR feature the red plunger that don't swell.
Also, the Kip solenoid manifolds are likely equipped with integrated metering valves. Make sure they are wide open.
@cantbreak80 i bought brand new solenoids and they looked just fine
Well I wasn’t getting any pressure when the soap function was on. But I fixed that
However, still no soap to the bays I tried the following
1) poured soap directly into the tank
2) rechecked the solenoids and they are still good
3) checked the voltage at the bay and I am getting the proper voltage in the bay
Dan kamsickas
GinSan Technician
Measure across the two wires going to the coil. When you measure from hot to ground on the secondary side of a transformer you very well could be getting false readings.
MEP001
Well-known member
Yes, it's entirely possible you've lost the "common" connection back to the transformer in the cabinet. You can also check the solenoid with a screwdriver, when it's energized you'll feel a magnetic pull above the coil and a vibration that's the 60 hertz of the power.
I.B. Washincars
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You've got a lot of weight hanging on that nipple at the pump head. I feel like one day you will come in and see that swinging from the HP hose.
How I have it wired so far:
Coming from the bay to the relay:
A1+ Relay 1: timer output
A1+(R1) timed output red
R2:TC sol yellow
3PS
4:hp soap
5: FB
6:rinse
7:HP wax
8:spot free
11: low pressure air solenoid
15: tokens (quarter/card coin pulse
16: coin vac output/coin switch
I am now needing to wire in the rest of the control panelI already have the solenoids inside wired up and placed on the respected relays on the 14 port.
I just don’t know where to put the orange motor starter wire and the black hot wire coming from the bay
@MEP001
@Dan kamsickas
Or any one else that can help
Coming from the bay to the relay:
A1+ Relay 1: timer output
A1+(R1) timed output red
R2:TC sol yellow
3PS
4:hp soap
5: FB
6:rinse
7:HP wax
8:spot free
11: low pressure air solenoid
15: tokens (quarter/card coin pulse
16: coin vac output/coin switch
I am now needing to wire in the rest of the control panelI already have the solenoids inside wired up and placed on the respected relays on the 14 port.
I just don’t know where to put the orange motor starter wire and the black hot wire coming from the bay
@MEP001
@Dan kamsickas
Or any one else that can help
MEP001
Well-known member
You don't need any at all. 24V AC from the timer to the switch, from the switch straight to the solenoids and motor contactor coil. You'll need relays or a multiplexer for the spot free rinse motor and any of your low pressure functions that may have an electric pump, but if the latter are Flojets you can just dead-head the pumps.
