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That's the challenge... mac is right about a simple key pad with a code, but with that you either have to give the same code to everyone, or you have to assign individual codes for each unlimited customer, but those become somewhat "permanent" codes, and over time, people would figure that out...

We can easily integrate a key pad or bar code reader to do what you want to do, but the real issue is finding the controls company that can provide all of the hardware and software integration required. I talked to the people at Exacta about this in Nashville, because they always had a key pad...

I would get in touch with Larry Korpics; he is building custom meter box doors to retrofit several "old" boxes... push buttons, displays, bill acceptors, credit cards. You can e-mail him at samsco@ptd.net

If you don't have a decent voltmeter, go buy one! At a minimum you need a voltmeter that can measure AC voltage, DC voltage, and resistance (continuity). The best way to track down a problem is by probing for voltage at different connection points in your system to determine where you are...

The vacuum and pedestal on the left are the "old" set-up, and the vacuum and pedestal cover on the right are the "new" set-up. Again, the customer sent me the dimensions of his old pedestal, and we custom fabricated the stainless cover that dropped right over the top of his concrete base.

A couple years ago, we custom fabricated a stainless steel cover for a customer's vacuum pedestals. The existing concrete pedestal still provided the structure... the stainless steel cover was a cosmetic cover, and incorporated a heavy duty rubber bumper.

Just to confirm your wiring using that timer. Terminal 1 should be connected to 120V Hot incoming... Terminal 2 should be connected to 120V Hot output to your motors... Terminal 3 should be connected to 120V Common both incoming and outgoing... Teminals 4 and 5 are for your coin switch.

I'm guessing you probably had an old GS-101 Timer (no longer made). I don't know what a "fits all timer" is - do you have a make and model of the timer you bought? If you can provide this information, I might be able to assist you with the wiring. 2Biz is right, regardless of the timer you...

Man... this forum has almost become toxic... too bad! I just called IDX to discuss this with them, and here is what they said: 1. There is a potentiometer on the board (see the little, off-white, octagonal shaped part with a slot in the top, just to the right of center on the top of your...

Actually, I think Mike Walsh was correct. I believe there is a potentiometer somewhere on the board that controls the output voltage for the LED sockets. The voltage needs to be set to the correct level to insure proper function (and life) of the LED's. For example, the high-output LED's...

I would suggest you contact IDX to discuss the problem. I know there is an adjustment somewhere to calibrate the output of the LED sockets - if this is not set correctly, it could cause the LED's to fail. I know it costs more to have IDX do your repairs, but they will repair the timer...

Don't limit your options... there are other options you might consider.

The type of vacuum you would need depends on what you are wanting to suck up and how much of it there is. Given that you appear to operate a dental lab, I would guess that your debris is very fine, and rather low in volume. Also, it is important to know if you are only ingesting dry debris, or...

Why don't you give me a call at 616-554-9555 and I should be able to help you troubleshoot this problem. As I do not know the age or vintage of your Air-N-Vac unit, I can not give you a canned answer as to the cause of your problem. If you have a volt meter (and if you don't - you should get...

Yes - this is definitely swelling due to chemical incompatibility. Again, I would stress that the proper tubing is critical to the proper performance of the pumps.

We sell the tubing both in cut to length sections (approximately 9") or by the foot. Just contact us and we can get that for you right away. As for the different chemical brands, I am not aware that any one in particular is better or worse in terms of the chemical deterioration of the tubing...

BigLeo: I don't recall having any inquiries from you regarding the tubing - Sorry if you did not get a response. The tubing that comes in the original pumps, and that we use for replacement tubing is Neoprene. This material has shown to have a good combination of mechanical and chemical...