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Unicorn (a tri color Pre-soak) is the wrong product to use as your Triple Foam if that is your setup order. You also don't need a drying agent if you are applying graphene before SFR. Hold your distributor accountable and tell them to get it right. I am 100% sure on this.


I'll reiterate:



It might be more like 85

Unicorn (a tri color Pre-soak) is the wrong product to use as your Triple Foam if that is your setup order. You also don't need a drying agent if you are applying graphene before SFR. Hold your distributor accountable and tell them to get it right. I am 100% sure on this.


I'll reiterate:



It might be more like 85%
I agreed. Not a great experience with the distributor as time is the constant issue. Drying agent is for the base package. Unicorn was my idea, they brought it in silk triple foam. Silk is currently in place but I was going to replace it with the Unicorn.
 
If packages are containing a loph, hiph and a desalt LP pass you shouldn’t’ need any dwell time with 3 passes of presoak. Also by default there will be a little bit of dwell time when the lo ph primes after the hiph ends. How are you applying the Graphene and Drying agent. I would recommend Graphene always apply right before spot free rinse. You may find you don’t even need the drying agent pass. Your HP rinsing after the presoaks and after the trifoam and carnauba may be enough with the Graphene acting as the drying agent.
 
If your triple foam is a presoak as well then you definitely can get rid of the lo ph or desalt pass and layer it on before the first rinse or use a triple foam conditioner instead and apply before the carnuaba wax .
 
Black Car problems - Chalky white color residue at lower side of the door and in some cases at more areas. Any suggestions to avoid such problems?
 
Black Car problems - Chalky white color residue at lower side of the door and in some cases at more areas. Any suggestions to avoid such problems?
Are you in an area where they use salt on the roads? Could also be soap in the rain drain channels . Things I used address these was an initial application of a non foaming or low foaming product to fill rain channels so any foaming products could fill out more easily. Also tweak rinsing an setting arch application. I got rid of Rin Bars because they could not apply / target rinse or drying agent to the sides of cars as well as jets on the side of an arch.
 
yes we are based in NJ and they use salt to melt snow. I also ask the same question to Ai and Gemini suggested to put low Ph presoak first then high pH.

Do you think its because of high pH first ?
 
Looking at your older post on wash sequence, i would go desalt,lo ph then hi ph as pass sequence. Also, maybe slow arch speed down on HP rinse pass and verify no nozzles are clogged especially the lower ones . The question I wonder ,do you think this is residual salt or residual soap?
 
its not all packages, base package with no fancy chemicals even black cars are coming out good.
If things are fine on the base package with no fancy chemicals then it might be one or more of your fancy chemicals causing the issue. Are your protectants and sealants getting rinsed well all the way down the sides of the car? I know some wash sequences will rinse off protectants with a rain bar for the final rinse. That might not be thorough enough to get your protectants totally rinsed from the lower sides of the vehicles. Or maybe you are applying some chemicals on top of each other that are not compatible - maybe a wax and a ceramic or graphene. Or maybe it is even your drying agent when used in conjunction with one of your more high-end protectants is causing the issue. The fact that your base wash has no problems is huge in narrowing down what the issue is.
 
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