I'm having issues with a tire cleaner and presoak set up. I run two flojet G57 (one for presoak and one for tire cleaner) into pressure regulators (which have both failed and aren't reducing anything) into a block with 7 injectors which has it's own lines to the wand. I T'd the air lines after their regulators so I only have to run one to the wand and the air, tire cleaner, and presoak all connect into one line above the bay sharing a check valve. Even with the flojets unrestricted from the failed regulators I'm getting terrible product flow in my bays, hardly anything other than air comes out. Right now I dropped the air to almost nothing for the tire cleaner and its coming out with some flow but still sputtery.
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Tire Cleaner and Presoak setup
- Thread starter DRsuds
- Start date
Eric H
Well-known member
You need to inject the air into the chemical line as close as possible to the wand, which is typically the top of the boom. You are trying to create a light foaming action that helps the chemical cling to the car and provide a nice show for the customer. By injecting the air so far away from the wand it just collapses in the hose and mostly comes out as if you didn’t inject any air at all.
I think you need to remove the watts regulator and control the pressure on the pump using a air pressure regulator. In the photo, the top regulator adjusts the pump pressure and the lower regulator controls the foam air
Attachments
The air is injected above the bay about a foot or two from the boom. I had considered regulating the air but I'll have to get some more air regulators before I can try that. I like your set up what air regulators are you using? Is your flow constant out of the gun?
I hadn’t thought of that, I’ve experienced it though, I’ll open it and check.
The presoak was not working at all but I disconnected the tire cleaner flojet and relieved the pressure it seems to be causing to back feed all the way into the presoak flojet output. The presoak now works pretty well. I disassembled the tire cleaner flojet expecting the diaphragm to be torn but it’s not. I’m going to test another flojet it ins place.
Yeah whoever ran those lines didn’t care too much for organization I could rerun them but it’s not hurting anything and I’d rather not break poly tube fittings. I did already check the check valves the other day, I replaced one and the others were good. Since I’m deleting the watts pressure regulators I’m thinking of replacing them with check valves to protect the flojets. What procons do you recommend?
MEP001
Well-known member
Don't add check valves, you'll just introduce another failure point. Tee the tire cleaner, presoak and air all together on the same check valve at the bay, and use a regulator on the air stack that will relieve excess pressure. That way if a check valve at the bay fails, nothing will get damaged and it will bleed off inside where you can see there's a problem. Regulator I use:
www.kleen-ritecorp.com
I was involved in building my car wash 19 years ago, I laid it out as I described, and I never have issues with blown lines from bad check valves.
Kleen-Rite Corporation - Norgren 1/4" Composite Regulator
Norgren 1/4" Composite Regulator
I was involved in building my car wash 19 years ago, I laid it out as I described, and I never have issues with blown lines from bad check valves.
When you say air stack are you referring to the valves for the air? Because I have those regulators you linked on them already. I also have them T’d above the bay like you’ve described.Don't add check valves, you'll just introduce another failure point. Tee the tire cleaner, presoak and air all together on the same check valve at the bay, and use a regulator on the air stack that will relieve excess pressure. That way if a check valve at the bay fails, nothing will get damaged and it will bleed off inside where you can see there's a problem. Regulator I use:
Kleen-Rite Corporation - Norgren 1/4" Composite Regulator
Norgren 1/4" Composite Regulator
I was involved in building my car wash 19 years ago, I laid it out as I described, and I never have issues with blown lines from bad check valves.
Have had this issue so many times. One time I found air was leaking from the connection to the pressure gauge. Solved the entire problem. Also try bleeding your lines. Turn air all the way off and let chemical just flow through, once you do not hear any air slowly turn up the air to the correct pressure. Hope this helps.
Eric H
Well-known member
How do you keep the foam gun from freezing? I've been thinking about a ceramic coat on a foam gun. i do NOT have triple foam and never will
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
MEP001
Well-known member
What a mess. I can hardly see the wires!
Earl Weiss
Well-known member
Eliminate the pressure regulators / gauges before the manifold blocks. You only need to regulate the air pressure to the flojet for whatever flow you want / need. Since you likely run an .05 nozzle, you can't put 10 pounds in a 45 pound sack. Start with 50 PSI to Flo Jets and -0- to air supply line. See how the product is. If no product pull a line from exit side of solenoid and check for good flo there. If you get good flo there but not at the bay you my have a bad check valve. If good flo at the bay try 10 PSI air.
2Biz
Thread Killer!
BUT, running all these low pressure options through an 05-06 nozzle/tip @ 50-60 psi is part of the problem....This size nozzle is designed for 1200 psi or more...If you want to eliminate these issues with all the CV's and pressure/flow issues, put all LP functions on a separate foam gun and run the right size nozzle for that application. like a 40-40 or 50-50....You, you're equipment, and your customers will be so much happier!