What's new

Tire Cleaner and Presoak setup

cantbreak80

Maybe I need new clubs
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
1,129
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
CO
And, you'll make Foamy Presoak
like this
IMG_1054_LI2.jpg

And, Foamy Tire Cleaner
like this
IMG_1055.jpg
 

2Biz

Thread Killer!
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
2,795
Reaction score
409
Points
83
Location
Ohio
How do you keep the foam gun from freezing? I've been thinking about a ceramic coat on a foam gun. i do NOT have triple foam and never will
It really doesn't have anything to do with TF...It has to do with anything LP....I can weep between 700 and 800 gallons of water through my HP guns at 16° and below. That's at 16oz minute per HP gun...I doubt you'll keep TF or a Foam Gun from freezing at 16oz minute using weep water....Regardless, my water/sewage is about $20 per thousand.... It would be extremely expensive to keep these hoses from freezing using weep.

So a few years ago, CantBreak80 and I worked on a home brew system that uses a smart relay, air for blow out, and washer fluid to winterize the LP hoses. Winterizing takes place at 32° from the secondary output from a weepmizer. Each hose is systematically blown out (one at a time) with air for 10 second, 5 seconds of washer fluid using a flojet, and then another 10 seconds of air. Once all hoses are winterized, if someone uses a LP selection, only that hose will get winterized when the customer is finished using it. All time values are customizable. Along with different air pressures to the air blowout solenoids or air pressure to the flojet...

Last winter was mild in Southern Ohio and I used 12 gallons of washer fluid to winterize 8 LP hoses...About $15....During the bad winters a few years back I used no more than 75-80 gallons washer fluid....About $100....If I would have had to weep water, the cost would have been in the Thousands!
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
You need to inject the air into the chemical line as close as possible to the wand, which is typically the top of the boom. You are trying to create a light foaming action that helps the chemical cling to the car and provide a nice show for the customer. By injecting the air so far away from the wand it just collapses in the hose and mostly comes out as if you didn’t inject any air at all.
I think you need to remove the watts regulator and control the pressure on the pump using a air pressure regulator. In the photo, the top regulator adjusts the pump pressure and the lower regulator controls the foam air
How long does it take your system for air/chemical to come out of the wand when you start it?
 

Eric H

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
1,249
Reaction score
652
Points
113
Location
Leominster, MA
How long does it take your system for air/chemical to come out of the wand when you start it?
About 10-12 seconds to come down a 16’ 3/8” hose. Some people move to a 1/4” hose to reduce the changeover time
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
About 10-12 seconds to come down a 16’ 3/8” hose. Some people move to a 1/4” hose to reduce the changeover time
When I start mine I just have water and air sputtering out for the first 30 seconds. My bays are pretty far from the equipment room. I have a 4 bay and an 8 bay wash. I’m wondering if a check valve on my HP will make my low pressure options pressurize faster. Since they won’t try to fill up the empty HP hose. Since Im assuming the HP hose on the roof empties out of the weep from gravity and then the LP options which travel in polytubes flow both down into the bay and back towards the pump in the HP line until the HP line is full of liquid.
 

Eric H

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
1,249
Reaction score
652
Points
113
Location
Leominster, MA
I’m wondering if a check valve on my HP will make my low pressure options pressurize faster.
There should be check valve for your HP line and each LP line where everything tees into the boom.
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
There should be check valve for your HP line and each LP line where everything tees into the boom.
I have one on everything going into the T except the HP line, I’ll try adding one to the HP line.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,667
Reaction score
3,938
Points
113
Location
Texas
When I start mine I just have water and air sputtering out for the first 30 seconds.
Post a video.
I have one on everything going into the T except the HP line, I’ll try adding one to the HP line.
Don't bother, it won't change anything and you shouldn't need one there.
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Post a video.

Don't bother, it won't change anything and you shouldn't need one there.
I'll try to get a video this week. I'm currently waiting on rebuild kits for my solenoid valves because I have small constant leak of tirecleaner into almost all the lines so I'm afraid to turn the PSI up until I replace those. I'm gonna test the CV on the HP line on one bay. If it doesn't make a decent change in wait time for the air products to the wand I won't keep it. Last thing I want is another CV to be replacing.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,667
Reaction score
3,938
Points
113
Location
Texas
If you use the same Fluid Controls valve I mentioned in your other thread, make sure you use at least 3/8". I put a 1/4" on a medium-pressure spot free line once, and the plastic tabs that hold the valve together broke off and let the poppet blow through and jam into the fitting.

The only reason a check valve on the high pressure line might help would be if the low pressure is backing up into the high pressure line. If that happens, you have other problems that need to be dealt with. The pump shouldn't let flow back through, and there's usually something before it to keep backflow problems from happening. You're right, adding a check valve to mask another problem is only going to create more problems and more maintenance.
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
If you use the same Fluid Controls valve I mentioned in your other thread, make sure you use at least 3/8". I put a 1/4" on a medium-pressure spot free line once, and the plastic tabs that hold the valve together broke off and let the poppet blow through and jam into the fitting.
What are you referring to when you say Fluid Control Valves? The solenoid valve blocks?
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
This is what it looks like above bay. I’ve noticed my issue with the presoak seems to be that the air and chemical fight each other. If the chemical PSI is too high it ends up coming out of the air regulator at the air valve block. If the air psi is too high it back feeds to the flojet which I believe locks up my flojet. Should the chemical lines be on a CV? What if I just put a CV coming right out of the flojet?
 

Attachments

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
This only happens with the presoak. The foam brush and tirecleaner don’t seize up the flojet.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,667
Reaction score
3,938
Points
113
Location
Texas
If the chemical PSI is too high it ends up coming out of the air regulator at the air valve block.
That's actually a good thing. If the check valve fails, high pressure will come back through the air line and bleed out from the regulator, and it's your indicator that there's something wrong. It won't do any harm, and it prevents blown tubing lines.

If the air psi is too high it back feeds to the flojet which I believe locks up my flojet.
Your Flojet is probably bad. When the diaphragm fails, air gets through the break and comes out instead of product. If you disconnect the line and run the pump with no pressure on the output, it will pump only liquid, so it's hard to diagnose.

Those SMC check valves are not well suited for high pressure. They work, but they don't last, and eventually the o-ring will come off, or the spring will unscrew itself, or the whole thing will come apart internally.
 

DRsuds

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
58
Reaction score
4
Points
8
That's actually a good thing. If the check valve fails, high pressure will come back through the air line and bleed out from the regulator, and it's your indicator that there's something wrong. It won't do any harm, and it prevents blown tubing lines.


Your Flojet is probably bad. When the diaphragm fails, air gets through the break and comes out instead of product. If you disconnect the line and run the pump with no pressure on the output, it will pump only liquid, so it's hard to diagnose.

Those SMC check valves are not well suited for high pressure. They work, but they don't last, and eventually the o-ring will come off, or the spring will unscrew itself, or the whole thing will come apart internally.
Yeah the acidity of the low pH presoak seems to eat the flojet. We will be switching to high pH soon as our distributor suggested, so maybe the flojet will last longer. I have some viton rebuild kits and like 6 disassembled flojets. But sometimes I take apart a flojet and everything looks fine, but the pump still fails. But then I also have flojets that have run perfectly for years. They’re hit or miss. We have different CV across the bays we use what we can get when they break haha! That’s probably the nicer looking bay because it was all replaced at the same time.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,667
Reaction score
3,938
Points
113
Location
Texas
Yeah the acidity of the low pH presoak seems to eat the flojet. We will be switching to high pH soon as our distributor suggested, so maybe the flojet will last longer.
I wouldn't put a low pH product in the hands of the customer anyway, but the Viton Flojet should be able to handle it.

I have some viton rebuild kits and like 6 disassembled flojets. But sometimes I take apart a flojet and everything looks fine, but the pump still fails.
That's why I don't rebuild them. Two of the three kits cost as much as a new pump, and I've never had a rebuilt one work reliably. I've already bought a couple of Procon pumps and motors to switch back to as the Flojets fail. I have decent luck with Flojets and I love how easy they are to change, but I can't handle the downtime. Also I want to run presoak at 125 PSI.
 

Randy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
5,687
Reaction score
1,991
Points
113
Yeah the acidity of the low pH presoak seems to eat the flojet. We will be switching to high pH soon as our distributor suggested, so maybe the flojet will last longer. I have some viton rebuild kits and like 6 disassembled flojets. But sometimes I take apart a flojet and everything looks fine, but the pump still fails. But then I also have flojets that have run perfectly for years. They’re hit or miss. We have different CV across the bays we use what we can get when they break haha! That’s probably the nicer looking bay because it was all replaced at the same time.
Have you ever thought about going to a pump that will hold up a little better than a Flojet pump, something like a Procon pump. We only use the Flojet pumps on the Foam brush system. I've had one Procon pump failure in 26 years.
 
Top