I use a ProCon 106N480F11XX. It is 480 GPH. I have 2 membranes, and I produce about 3.5 of product when it's warm (as in summer), and just under 3 gallons in wintertime. I run almost a 1:1 reject rate, and yes, my unit has a recirculate loop.
It will increase the flow through the membranes which will let you reduce the reject rate to 1:1, and it may slightly increase the production rate.Can i recycle the concentrate to help give me more GPM.
Thanks fellow trooper MEP001,
Point taken ... not sure how much more the functional equivalent in a stainless Procon Pump would cost $$$. Brass could make better sense considering it is the booster pump that is not pumping the actual more aggressive to brass already made up RO water like the pump that goes to the 6 bays.
Below Here is what I found (links) to match your specifications. Ideally, I would be able to order all of the below from 1 car wash supplier but that might be wishful thinking.
Brass 240 GPH Pump | Reverse Osmosis Car Wash Pumps | Fluid Circulation Pumps | Kleen-Rite (kleen-ritecorp.com)
Buy Capacitor Start AC Motors (zoro.com)
Bolt-On Pump Adapter Piece for 56C Motors | Procon Part 1048-1C | Affordable Pump Accessories at Kleen-Rite (kleen-ritecorp.com)
TB WOOD'S L070 Size 7/16 in Sintered Iron Jaw Coupling Hub, Keyway Size Type: None - 5X401|L0707/16NK - Grainger
Anybody else ??? with suggestions ... this is so much better than just "shooting in the dark"!
You don’t have to buy from Hydro Spray—just make sure any 4"x40" membrane you choose matches the specs. You can likely find a cheaper option elsewhere.I bought a wash with an older hydro spray RO system. It still works but needs the membrane filters changed. They are 4"x40". They have them on hydro sprays website for $381. Do I have to buy them from hydro spray or could I get a 4"x40" one from somewhere else for a lot less money?
Wouldn't operating above the rated pressure damage the membrane?The two primary specs you want to match up are diameter and length which you've already done (4" x 40" nominal) and the pressure at which you run the system. For instance, we stock membranes with pressure specs @ 80 psi, 100 psi, 150 psi, and 225 psi.
https://www.buckeyehydro.com/4-diamter-ro-membranes/
We are in the process of stocking some lower cost membranes, which seem to be what many in this industry are hunting for.
You want to buy a membrane that is spec'ed at your typical running pressure or below. In other words, you'd not want to run a 225 psi membrane at 100 psi; but it is fine to run a 100 psi membrane at 225psi. If you exceed the pressure spec on a membrane you'll get better than spec performance. Max operating pressure for these types of membranes are typically very high (e.g., 600 psi) - well above what most fresh water commercial RO's can produce.
Russ
If the pressure rating is not provided by the manufacturer (or is unclear), I believe it's safe to operate below the tested pressure.The devil is in the details here. What is your pump output pressure? What membranes are installed?
When a manufacturer provides a temperature and pressure spec on a given membrane, nothing says those conditions are "ideal." They are just the conditions provided to the membrane during testing, and those conditions resulted in x gals per day production of permeate (RO water). Let's say the spec pressure is 150 psi: if you run it at 180 psi, the membrane performance will be better - both in terms of amount of permeate produced, and purity of the permeate. If you check into the fine print, max recommended pressure might be something like 600 psi.
Hate to say it, but most often when vendors sell someone something like a 225 psi 4040 membrane designed to produce ~2600 gpd, and tell you it's ok to run it at your pump's max of let's say 110 psi, (we even see some vendors suggesting unsuspecting customers run these membranes at line pressure [typically 50 to 60 psi]) the primary beneficiary of that sale is the vendor. They sold you a membrane much more expensive than need be, and it is not well matched to your system.
If a membrane manufacturer does not provide the pressure spec... do not buy the membrane.
Can't say, that after 25 yrs of doing this, I've ever seen a max pressure that wasn't well above the test pressure/pressure spec. I wouldn't consider buying a membrane if the test pressure approximated the max pressure.
Would be like putting oil in your truck w/o knowing the viscosity - or installing a pump with unknown voltage requirement/capacity - or buying paint w/o knowing the color. The pressure spec of a membrane is THAT fundamental.
Based on a career worth of experience with RO membranes, I think your concern re over pressurizing membranes is misplaced. Maximum pressure always far exceeds test pressure. If you run below test pressure, you will reduce the gals per day of purified water produced, and you will (potentially significantly) reduce the purity of the RO water. If that's not an issue for you... so be it.I completely understand your point — and I agree, ideally, a membrane should come with clearly defined pressure specs.
However, in practice, especially when dealing with some overseas suppliers, we sometimes find ourselves in situations where the only available data is the test pressure.
In such cases, we take a conservative approach and operate well below that test pressure, usually around 100 PSI in our system (with a max of 190 PSI). This allows us to build in a safety margin, especially when using membranes rated for higher pressure.
That said, I do share your concern — if the test pressure is close to the max operating pressure, it definitely raises a red flag. I wouldn’t trust a membrane under those conditions either.
Also, from our experience, low-pressure membranes often can’t provide enough flow and we run out of water quickly.
Our setup is limited by space — we had to bring in multiple small tanks through a narrow doorway, so our total storage capacity is only about 250 gallons.
That’s another reason we rely on high-pressure membranes even if we operate them at lower pressures.