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LED wall pack

Randy

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I think the 80 watt fixture might be a little much for a S/S bay. I think a 50 watt would be plenty for a S/S bay. Where do you plan on using the 80 watt fixture.
 

6t7gto

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I ordered one and will report back on it's brightness.
I plan on putting it on the outside of my building to illuminate the parking lot.
I converted the wallpacks in my SS bays to 95w CFL a couple of years ago.
 

6t7gto

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Installed the light and it is super bright.
Only put up one at this time to illuminate the front of my 80' building and parking lot.
I put it in the middle of the building.
Haven't decided if I will put up a second one yet and split the distance between them.
 

JMMUSTANG

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Sounds good.
What is the width/length area of the front of your building and lot?
Does the one light light up the whole area bright?
 
Etowah

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Kleenrite has some LSI surface mount LEDs on sale right now. 150 watt, 19,000 lumens, 5000K color that is 1/3 more efficient for $399. One of these per SS bay would be enough for most people. The shopgreentek light listed above is about the same efficiency as a T5 HO. The LSI is DOE rated and is a top quality light.
 

Earl Weiss

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FWIW I paid almost $450 for these a while back. Use them in my tunnlel to replace old 400 W MH as well as some 320 W Scottsdales. They are the bomb.
 
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JMMUSTANG

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Soapy I've been looking at the kleenrite light. Do you have any installed in you bays?
I'm not sure about installing them on the ceiling or wall. Seems to me that the light would be very bright but would it be enough light coverage for all sides of the vehicle?
 

cebo

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I have 2 400 watt metal halide in my existing wash SS bays. Last year I bought another location down the road with 2 250w wall packs in each bay. I have never liked 2 wall packs because they never seemed to put off enough light. When I updated this wash I installed 2 150 watt LED's kleen rite sells on the ceiling in each bay and I can tell you this is the only way to go. They are going in my existing location. Light is way better and power bill never moved for much better lighting. You can almost see better at night than during the day.
 

Earl Weiss

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Earl are you talking about the kleenrite light?
In the tunnel did you install them on the ceiling or wall?
How far apart?
Starting at the door about 8 foot in, just past where the overhead door is in the up position and then about 15'. ABOUT is the operative term because there is no need to put it over a dense mitter curtain . Try to space about 8 feet on either side of the mitters. So, 90 feet inside the building requires 6. Since I am EE having light in the center of the tunnel is important . If I Was FS with a customer walk I would need the DS Side illuminated. Similarly if it were to be in my SS Bay I would think they would have to be 2, Diagonally at the corners o one would get say Front and PS side and the other rear and DS. In one location where I had only 320 W Scotsdales I am now replacing with the Jarvis 140W retrofit for about $250.00 each . I only hope they last as long as they say.
 

MEP001

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Similarly if it were to be in my SS Bay I would think they would have to be 2, Diagonally at the corners o one would get say Front and PS side and the other rear and DS.
I agree, I've been to someone's wash with the exact same Scottsdales as we had but he had them front and back of the bay but centered. The sides of the vehicle wasn't lit well at all.
 

soapy

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JMMUSTANG I do not have the LSI LED lights. I installed T5 lights in my SS bays. 2- 4 foot T5HO added on the walls diagonally from each other. This gives me a little over 19,000 lumens per bay which I find ample. My T5s with lights were about $120 each with 5000K bulbs rated to 35,000 hours. At the time I installed them I figured price cost difference compared to energy savings and found that it would take me 53 years for the energy saving to pay for the different price in lights between T5 HO and equivalent LED lights with the same Lumens. Diagonally mounting keeps the sides, front and back lit up well without shadows. When LEDS come down in price i might start installing some of them. I have many T5 Ho fixtures with over 100,000 hours on them and have never replaced a bulb or ballast. All LEDs are not created equal so you really need to study the specs before you buy.
 

Earl Weiss

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................. All LEDs are not created equal so you really need to study the specs before you buy.
When it comes to specs I am concerned that they all le. It's just a question of how much. I typically buy a couple and see how they work. Started that way with the KR 150W LSI's and bought at least a dozen more.

Did the same with the Jarvis 140W retrofits for the Scottsdale 320 W. Bough 4 so far with more to come I'm sure.
 

cebo

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I got tired of reading about all the 5000 different leds, watts, lumens etc. It's like trying to buy cell phone service. Good night how many choices can we have. I tried the diagonal stuff years ago and I just put them in the middle about 10' back from the front and back of a 24' bay. 19k lumens is like being on the sun. I replaced 8 250k MH wall packs and got 2 surface mounts from wall packs.com for the front. My power bill might have gone up $20 a month for 2 times the light. It's so bright I turned off the $40 / month power company flood lights that were lighting up the yard. The KR's seemed to be the best deal and now they are cheaper than when I bought. They are so bright you don't have to stagger them. 5 yr warranty but they are supposed to last longer.
 

Earl Weiss

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For Tunnel installs, another thing to consider is to NOT put one too close to a color LED that goes on with a service. The bright light lessens the effect of the colors.
 

MEP001

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When it comes to specs I am concerned that they all le. It's just a question of how much.
A lot of them do. The easy way to tell is if they spec them at or near 100 lumens per watt AND say they have a 50,000 hour life, they either have a massive heat sink or it's way over-spec'd. You just can't overdrive LEDs and not have them fail fast if they're not well cooled. The ones 6t7gto listed have no external fins for cooling and can't deliver what they promise.
 

2Biz

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Just throwing this out there. Those wall packs seem pricey compared to some of the 4' vapor tight fixtures out there. There just doesn't seem like there is enough surface area of light from a wall pack compared to the vapor tight 4 footers? I just ordered new 4' (3) bulb LED vapor tights ip67 rated for less than $40 each shipped. Including the 22w - 2200L (6600L total) bulbs ordered directly from China, I have $56 in each fixture including bulbs. I have the old Hubble fixtures now with the CFL conversion. The plastic lenses are yellowed from the high heat of the metal halides, so I'm wanting to fix that. Its cheaper for me to put in new LEd fixtures including bulbs than just replacing the Hubble covers. That is IF labor is free! Which it seems to be in this business!!!!

So I'm wondering what drives the decision to buy one over the other? The 4' LED tube fixtures seem the logical way to go?
 
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