Downstreaming chem in underbody?

[Waxman]

Read an article in PC&D about Mag and Calcium Chloride used as road de-icer. It suggested an underbody wash featuring a low-ph product (to negate the harful corrosive effects of the road salt) as well as a sealant and said water alone (what I use) is insufficient at removing the chlorides and protecting the underbody.

1. Could I downstream inject a product into my hp underbody line?

2. Is there a low ph one step underbody flush and protect chemical that would neutralize the cholride deicers aswell as leave a temporary film to protect the underbody of the vehicle?

 

[soapy]

I had a automatic that injected Zeibart in the undercarriage wash as a rust inhibitor. You could easily plumb a injector into your undercarriage wash. Several companies make presoaks designed to work on magnesium chloride. Blue coral is one I know of. Injecting the right presoak into the undercarriage wash would help to eliminate the mag chloride. Snow plow operators use a product called Eureka Fluid Film sprayed on the plow and undercarriage to fight off the effects of the salts they spread after plowing a lot.

 

[Indiana Wash]

How would you then neutralize the acid after applying it???

How would you then neutralize the acid after applying it???


Wow, you are wanting to do exactly what has gotten a ton of bad press lately. All the washes in my area had signs up for 6 months that said "NO HFl acid used here" I think there was even an expose on TV, maybe 60 minutes. The problem according to the TV was that a lot of car washes use Hydroflouric acid to clean the underbody of the car. Then, unlike the rest of the was process, there is not a good rinse of the underbody. This means that you just sprayed acid on metal and did not wash it off. At least if the acid does not eat the metal, it will eat the protective coatings and paint off the metal. Does not seem like a good idea to me.

 

[Waxman]

How would you then neutralize the acid after applying it???


Wow, you are wanting to do exactly what has gotten a ton of bad press lately. All the washes in my area had signs up for 6 months that said "NO HFl acid used here" I think there was even an expose on TV, maybe 60 minutes. The problem according to the TV was that a lot of car washes use Hydroflouric acid to clean the underbody of the car. Then, unlike the rest of the was process, there is not a good rinse of the underbody. This means that you just sprayed acid on metal and did not wash it off. At least if the acid does not eat the metal, it will eat the protective coatings and paint off the metal. Does not seem like a good idea to me.

I never said anything about using HFL!! Re-read my post cause it is evident you just skimmed it.

I read an article in PC&D magazine where it was recommended to use a low-ph product to NEUTRALIZE the mag and calc. chloride used as de-icer on roadways. It seemed backwards to me, too, putting on an acid to fight a corrosive but that is what the article said.

Never said a thing about which acid, as there are myriad carwash chems considered 'low ph'.

 

[Mr.Aap]

I never said anything about using HFL!! Re-read my post cause it is evident you just skimmed it.

I read an article in PC&D magazine where it was recommended to use a low-ph product to NEUTRALIZE the mag and calc. chloride used as de-icer on roadways. It seemed backwards to me, too, putting on an acid to fight a corrosive but that is what the article said.

Never said a thing about which acid, as there are myriad carwash chems considered 'low ph'.

If you wanted you could add an underbody rust inhibitor....A good high-pressure rinse will take care of road de-icers....

 

[rph9168]

I would be real careful about using a high pressure spray on an underbody spray. With all the electronics under the hood in today's vehicles I would be concerned about possibly spraying into the engine compartment and possibly damaging a component.

 

[Indiana Wash]

I never said anything about using HFL!! Re-read my post cause it is evident you just skimmed it.

I read an article in PC&D magazine where it was recommended to use a low-ph product to NEUTRALIZE the mag and calc. chloride used as de-icer on roadways. It seemed backwards to me, too, putting on an acid to fight a corrosive but that is what the article said.

Never said a thing about which acid, as there are myriad carwash chems considered 'low ph'.

OK, not HFl, but you are talking about putting acid on the underside of cars and not neutralizing it or removing it afterward. I understand that some cars would have the right amount of de-icer on the underside of the car to neutralize some of the acid you are putting on but not all cars will. Also, my underbody sprays with more force and than roadspray so would likely coat areas not hit by de-icer.

I cannot imagine that anyone would say yes if you said, "Can I spray acid on the underside of your car and leave it there?"

By the way, I do know one wash that uses another acid but has a sign out front that says No Hydroflouric Acid used here!

 

[Waxman]

I could only find one product in the Kleen Rite catalog for underbody rust inhibitor and the description is vague. Made by Simoniz.

I also looked at a product called fluid film but it is not a carwash application type spray.

 

[Indiana Wash]

I could only find one product in the Kleen Rite catalog for underbody rust inhibitor and the description is vague. Made by Simoniz.

I also looked at a product called fluid film but it is not a carwash application type spray.

Yes, a rust inhibitor would likely not be spraying acid on the bottom of a car. Or well, "low PH" chemical. Of course, the definition of acid is anything with a PH below 7.

 

[MEP001]

I could only find one product in the Kleen Rite catalog for underbody rust inhibitor and the description is vague. Made by Simoniz.

The MSDS sheets for all their chemicals are available online.

 

[Mr.Aap]

I would be real careful about using a high pressure spray on an underbody spray. With all the electronics under the hood in today's vehicles I would be concerned about possibly spraying into the engine compartment and possibly damaging a component.

The risk is minimal....For the reward of leaving behind corrosive products that make up de-icers.....

 

[Waxman]

Update;

Spoke with Steve from Autowash Maintenance and he is researching the parts needed; Dema valve properly sized for gpm (5 2505 nozzles) at 1000 psi.

He was super helpful and knowledgeable and said what I want to do is simple, like Soapy said.

Good to hear I can simply add a value-added product delivered through an existing system with only minor modifications. I like that!

 

[Mr.Aap]

Armorall Professional use to have an Under-Body Rust Inhibitor....(Sodium Nitrite).....

 

[rph9168]

The risk is minimal....For the reward of leaving behind corrosive products that make up de-icers.....

While the risk is minimal it is not worth it. There is no need for high pressure in an underbody wash. City water pressure with the proper nozzles should do an adequate job without the risk. There is no real need to apply a cleaner in an underbody spray. Almost all vehicles are protected from road chemicals. You might have noticed that companies like Rusty Jones went belly up and Ziebart offers many more services than just undercoating.

Underbody rust inhibitors are watered down sealants that provide little or no protection. Almost all product lines carry one.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

You guys are driving yourselves crazy over nothing. No one cares if the water sprayed under their car has anything in it. In 20 years of owning automatics (7 at the moment) I have NEVER had anyone ask what, if anything was being applied along with the water. I have had complaints that it "sucked" if it was just a wimpy little "wizzing" under the car. I have modified most of mine to knock off loose parts and have never drowned out a car or any other damage. Furthermore, the UC doesn't usually get on the areas prone to rust (wheel wells, fenders, rockers, door bottoms). UC wash just works on the customer's head and does little to protect the vehicle, a prime example of selling the sizzle. Give 'em what they want, a lot of water and noise. I have actually put larger nozzles on the driver's side to be more impressive.

 

[Ric]

Many years ago when the tunnel I had at the time offered a "rust inhibitor" we used the same "wax" (clear coat protectant) as we applied to the painted finish and told the customer that if they ask...which was never.

 

[Indiana Wash]

Mine are high pressure enough to blast off loose parts off cars. Particularly, the Cadillac SRX has a cover under the car in the rear. If anyone needs one, I have 3 laying around waiting to be claimed. Also, hummer hubcaps are particularly susceptible. I never have any complaints except when the high pressure pump does not turn on and it is wimpy.

I would never put acid on anyone's car unless I knew that it was going to be neutralized or at least rinsed off on a subsequent pass.

 

[Mr.Aap]

While the risk is minimal it is not worth it. There is no need for high pressure in an underbody wash. City water pressure with the proper nozzles should do an adequate job without the risk. There is no real need to apply a cleaner in an underbody spray. Almost all vehicles are protected from road chemicals. You might have noticed that companies like Rusty Jones went belly up and Ziebart offers many more services than just undercoating.

Underbody rust inhibitors are watered down sealants that provide little or no protection. Almost all product lines carry one.

I disagree.....

 

[rph9168]

I disagree.....

With what?

 

[Indiana Wash]

I disagree.....

I agree with your disagreement.

With what?

With the other guy's comment that high pressure spray is not needed on underbody and the risk isn't worth it. What risk??? Really, out of the thousands of cars washed, how many are detrimentally affected by high pressure underspray?