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Regulator bypass

H

HCW

Member
Assuming I did this wright and you can see pump setup pic in attached file, this regulator setup is bypassing lots of water when the trigger is pulled or not, this is happening on all 4 SS bays. It bypass more when trigger is not pulled. Do i have 4 bad regulators or are they working properly and i just need to reroute the bypass hose to the low pressure side of pump? If so, do I need check valves?


The bottom left blue hose is hot water feed and bottom right two small blue hoses are wax and soap, the other attachment are low pressure chemicals.

Thanks in advance for any ideas
 
It looks like your motor pulleys are way bigger than they need to be. There should always be some bypass with the trigger pulled, but excessive flow means wasted energy and more wear on the pump.

What brand/model pumps are those? What's the diameter of the pump and motor pulleys? What size tip are you running?
 
HCW said:
this regulator setup is bypassing lots of water when the trigger is pulled or not, this is happening on all 4 SS bays. It bypass more when trigger is not pulled.
Click to expand...

Bypass means your pump is pumping more water than the bays can use/need, ie your pump is working harder than necessary.
First step is as MEP advised, check into your pulley sizes.
 
HCW said:
To the drain.
Click to expand...

MEP, it's a Hotsy H406r.2 pump 4.7gpm@1200rpm
Pulleys are 6 3/4" overall diameter with 1/2" groove on the pump and 4 3/4" overall diameter on the elec motor with also a 1/2" groove.
Nozzle tip is 2506

I appreciate the quick reply.
 
Why is the bypass going to the drain? Replace that elbow on the bottom left inlet to the pump with a tee and run it there.

I don't know what pressure you're running them at, but it's obviously not 3000 PSI, so if you're running it at 1000 you're dumping 1.7 GPM down the drain. You're definitely spinning the pump way faster than it needs - when you figure in new pulleys you need to take the pressure into account. You can at least replace the motor pulleys with 4" ones right away. You won't find them much cheaper than from here:

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/pulley/pulley_sheave_menu.htm
 
If you just move the regulator bypass to the pump inlet, you won't need to change anything else.
 
MEP001 said:
If you just move the regulator bypass to the pump inlet, you won't need to change anything else.
Click to expand...

The reason why I asked is the wax, soap, and water are all gravity fed to the pump, wax & soap have selonoids and I am afraid the bypass pressure will backfeed to the water, wax, and presoak tanks.
 
You would be rerouting the bypass back into the water inlet to the pump...How could this affect your soap and wax?

I can't believe a pump stand was designed this way.... That could amount to a lot of water going down the drain.
 
2Biz said:
I can't believe a pump stand was designed this way.... That could amount to a lot of water going down the drain.
Click to expand...
I know, right? And with the pumps being spun at 1200 RPM, with the trigger not pulled the whole 4.7 GPM is going to the drain.
 
So, is it ok to put the T at water inlet and route the bypass there or does it need to be reconfigured?
FYI: wax and soap (2 blue hoses on right bottom) are routed from holding tanks to a solenoid then to pump low pressure inlet. I am afraid that the bypass pressure will go in the wax & soap. Maybe I am worried because bypass water pressure is VERY high now, and after I switch pulleys the pressure will drop a bunch.
 
There's no new water being introduced, so there's nothing to backflow into the soap and wax lines.

Replacing that elbow with a tee is the simplest, quickest and cheapest solution for that wasted water, and it's the best for the pump because the flow won't change every time the trigger is pulled/released.
 
My Mark VII stand is plumbed such that the Bypass does not affect soap and wax draw. Since your soap and wax are plumbed to the low pressure side of the pump, I'm wondering how this affects the way the bypass is supposed to work. Will it keep putting more and more soap/wax into what is bypassed when the trigger is released?

My Bypass is Tee'd in right in front of the water strainer. Soap and wax input is right behind strainer.

PUMP_STAND.JPG
 
2Biz said:
My Mark VII stand is plumbed such that the Bypass does not affect soap and wax draw. Since your soap and wax are plumbed to the low pressure side of the pump, I'm wondering how this affects the way the bypass is supposed to work. Will it keep putting more and more soap/wax into what is bypassed when the trigger is released?
Click to expand...
Not unless the soap/wax have more pressure than the water. It doesn't matter if the soap/wax enter on the same side of the pump as the bypass or not; the bypass plumbed back to the inlet doesn't affect the inlet pressure.
 
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