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Polytubes Keep Busting!!??

wASHN4FUN

New member
I have one bay in particular that keeps busting tubes, day after day. The pressure is the same in all my bays, as far as I can tell...any ideas?:confused:
 
More information would be helpful. Like which Polytube? But my guess would be a failing CV between the polytube, manifold, and the HP hose.
 
This may sound stupid, but......where can I get a schematic,diagram of your typical lay-out for my car wash (self serve). It kind of looks like the previous owner may have done away with the separate engine cleaner (chemical) and uses the tire cleaner for both. Which means that I have more solenoids, hoses, & connections than I need. I don't know, but it would seem easier to have a jumper wire on the switch for the same system, right. Where all should I have check valves. Please keep in mind I am completely new to this business, but can be easily taught. Thank you!
 
its been my experience consistently breaking poly tubes = check valve stuck shut somewhere not allowing flow through.

(EDIT: what 2biz said basically, sorry didn't read it all)
 
As stated #1 Suspect is a bad Check valve. #2. Any noticeable difference between the tubes for this and the other bays? Is it possible the others were replaced and this was not?
 
Since it's just one bay, it's probably the check valve(s) at the boom that is meant to keep the high-pressure out of the low-pressure lines.

It's unlikely that it originally had a separate tire cleaner and engine degreaser system. If there are extra lines that don't connect to anything, someone probably replaced broken lines and just left the old ones.
 
This may sound stupid, but......where can I get a schematic,diagram of your typical lay-out for my car wash (self serve). It kind of looks like the previous owner may have done away with the separate engine cleaner (chemical) and uses the tire cleaner for both. Which means that I have more solenoids, hoses, & connections than I need. I don't know, but it would seem easier to have a jumper wire on the switch for the same system, right. Where all should I have check valves. Please keep in mind I am completely new to this business, but can be easily taught. Thank you!

My Self serve was set up this way when I bought it. It had tire cleaner and presoak on the rotary switch. But one chmical seviced both. The rotary switch was wired like it was supposed to be, but the two wires were jumpered to the same solenoid in the ER. When I put in SF rinse, I used one of these positions and kept pre-soak.

Here is a diagram that helped me learn the rotary switch wiring. Yours may be different, but will give you a general idea. Once you figure yours out, document it...You WILL refer back to it!

http://bcoweb.com/photos/8+pos+dix.pdf
 
Definitely the check valve. I just had the same post about 4 months ago. I swapped out the check valve up in the manifold near the bay and it fixed it instantly. It was driving me crazy for two weeks until someone here coached me to this solution.
 
Unhook the hose that keeps popping from the solenoid and run a high pressure function. I'll bet ten dollars to a dog turd that water comes out that hose. Follow that hose to your bad check valve, most likely on a manifold near the boom.
 
When you find the check valve that’s bad I’ll bet it’s a brass check valve. Replace it with a Stainless steel Fluid Controls 1/4'' Telfon HP KR Part #: CV0013T, this is the best check valve we have found.
 
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! This forum has been such a blessing to me in my endeavor. Everything came back to a check valve at the top of my boom that I couldn't see, for all the paint..??!! There are two polytube inlets at the boom, each with a check valve. Now; since I have only one low pressure chemical going to my pressure boom, why do I have two tubes??? :)
 
Air and Chemical? Thats the way mine is plumbed for the Pre-Soak. Follow the extra polytube back tothe ER to see where it goes....
 
What 2Biz said...it's either air and chemical for tire cleaner or it's tire cleaner and presoak on a common valve with no air. If the latter is the case, consider adding air. You can increase the strength of the chemical without increasing your cost, and with the right air regulator on the system you have a relief valve that will prevent further burst tubing lines.
 
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