What's new
By:
Car Wash Forum

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

How do I open these?

S

slash007

Well-known member
I finally took my RO filter housings and need to check the o-rings and probably change the filters, but can't figure out how to get them open. I remember that when I first changed the out a few years ago it was difficult, but am not sure how I got them open. Does the black part just pop out of the stainless housing? If so, any tips on how to get it to move? Thanks.20220317_161031.jpg

I have the u-pin style at my other wash and they are so easy to work on. Thinking about just buying two new housings if I can't find an easy way to open these. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-33397-ami-components-pv4040ssau-316-housing-u-pin-style-4-x-40.aspx
 
Last edited:
Is there a clamp on it that you've already removed? I'd probably try to pound the plastic cap out of the housing with a rubber mallet, or use a pair of screwdrivers to pry it out. I assume there's an o-ring around the plastic cap that's making it difficult to remove. Make sure you use some silicone grease when you reassemble it.
 
MEP001 said:
Is there a clamp on it that you've already removed? I'd probably try to pound the plastic cap out of the housing with a rubber mallet, or use a pair of screwdrivers to pry it out. I assume there's an o-ring around the plastic cap that's making it difficult to remove. Make sure you use some silicone grease when you reassemble it.
Click to expand...
I did take the clamp off that was on the black rubber part. I figured you just pry it out, but was afraid to damage the housing. I tried a little with some flat screwdrivers, but it didn't budge so I figured I'd see if there was an easier way. There are o-rings inside on the black part.
 
slash007 said:
I did take the clamp off that was on the black rubber part. I figured you just pry it out, but was afraid to damage the housing. I tried a little with some flat screwdrivers, but it didn't budge so I figured I'd see if there was an easier way. There are o-rings inside on the black part.
Click to expand...
That is the exact housing I have at one wash. Has an O ring seated just below the lip. Like MEP said use a rubber mallet and a flathead
 
I don't recommend this, but if you "bump" the system on a couple times it will gently pop the cap out. Or it'll blow it out so hard it'll leave a dent in the ceiling, but it still does the job.
 
MEP001 said:
I don't recommend this, but if you "bump" the system on a couple times it will gently pop the cap out. Or it'll blow it out so hard it'll leave a dent in the ceiling, but it still does the job.
Click to expand...
Lol too late, but I would have tried that. I just remember having the hardest time when I worked on them last. I'm pretty sure it's just a bad internal o-ring in there, but being so hard to open, I'm just going to go ahead and replace the membranes while I'm at it.
 
Back in the day when we had to change these we'd put about 5 lbs.of air pressure to the unit and they'd pop apart. But be very careful not to put to much air to it or you could get hurt. We had a cage that we used when we had to open one.
 
I was able to get one open by using a flat screwdriver and a mallet and lots of arm strength. I had to get the screw driver in, then work my way all around a few times until it was open enough to finish prying it open with a larger screw driver. I replaced the membrane in one so far, but it turns out the internal o-rings I bought were too large, so I just put it back together and am hoping that the membrane was the issue and not the 0-rings. If I still have the same problem with TDS, I'll have to do this crap all over again. Even putting the caps back on was a bi***h.
 
What I did was to get a small threaded pipe about a foot long. That fits in one of the holes the black part. Be careful not to run it in to far so as not to crack it. Then slide a bigger part over that. Then put a tee. On top and bump the sliding pipe up to the tee. Should come off after a few bumps.
 
mac said:
What I did was to get a small threaded pipe about a foot long. That fits in one of the holes the black part. Be careful not to run it in to far so as not to crack it. Then slide a bigger part over that. Then put a tee. On top and bump the sliding pipe up to the tee. Should come off after a few bumps.
Click to expand...
Great idea. Might give that a shot next time if these hold up. I ended up using a thinner flat head all around, then a medium flat head, then a larger one to finish it off. Wasn't too bad after the 1st cap. I ended up getting everything changed and on a 3:2 ratio, TDS is about 8, so I'm ok for now I think. Was over 120 before I changed the membranes. Was really hoping to get to 5 or lower on TDS, but would probably have to have a 3:3 ratio for that.
 
mac said:
What I did was to get a small threaded pipe about a foot long. That fits in one of the holes the black part. Be careful not to run it in to far so as not to crack it. Then slide a bigger part over that. Then put a tee. On top and bump the sliding pipe up to the tee. Should come off after a few bumps.
Click to expand...
This is the way we do it - by inserting a threaded nipple into the center port. Best not to pry it.

Russ
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top