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Weepmizer Questions

E

Earl Weiss

Well-known member
Have a D&S "weep mizer". IS clicking like it should be working, but no power to thesolenoid valves. Dipslay is working so the transformer must be working. There is a printed circuit board and dislay type timer inside.

Does anyone repair these?

Does the dixmoor weepmizer send 24V or 110V to the solenoids. Need to know in case i have to order one and it's 24v. My current ones are 110V.
 
Earl Weiss said:
Have a D&S "weep mizer". IS clicking like it should be working, but no power to thesolenoid valves. Dipslay is working so the transformer must be working. There is a printed circuit board and dislay type timer inside.

Does anyone repair these?

Does the dixmoor weepmizer send 24V or 110V to the solenoids. Need to know in case i have to order one and it's 24v. My current ones are 110V.
Click to expand...

The weepmizer will do 24 or 120 with the same unit
 
check voltage betwwen terminals 9 and 10(this is your supplied voltage). it should be 24volt or 110volt. your solenoid will be the same voltage.

Visit the other posters link ,and on their home page to the right is a troubleshooting guide ,and manual for the weepmizer.
 
Is this Weepmizer it in a pretty Blue box and says “DX1000” on the front of it? If it is it’s made by Dixmor and there is a fuse on the bottom of the unit, it’s in a gray holder. When it blows the Weepmizer won’t send power the solenoid valve. When there is no power from the Weepmizer to the solenoid valve the solenoid valve will be open. The voltage you put into the Weepmizer is the voltage you’ll get out of it, the Weepmizer doesn’t regulate the voltage to the solenoid valve, and it just turns it Off and On.
 
Randy said:
Is this Weepmizer it in a pretty Blue box and says “DX1000” on the front of it? If it is it’s made by Dixmor and there is a fuse on the bottom of the unit, it’s in a gray holder. When it blows the Weepmizer won’t send power the solenoid valve. When there is no power from the Weepmizer to the solenoid valve the solenoid valve will be open. The voltage you put into the Weepmizer is the voltage you’ll get out of it, the Weepmizer doesn’t regulate the voltage to the solenoid valve, and it just turns it Off and On.
Click to expand...

No, the unit I have is not a dixmoor weepmizer. It is stainless steel and when you remove the cover the timer / readout unit is still attached to it, as is a transformer. It has a "D&S" sticker on it. The part that stays on the wall has the terminals for power in and out, a solid state circuit board and some white solid plastic pieces that have the wires running to the timer / readout.

It may be circa 1990 when the wash was built.

As I understand it the Dixmoor uses NO solenoids. This uses NC.

I see KR has it for $339.00 so I would need that and have to swap out the solenoids. Not a huge issue but i'm freezing now.
 
Even though the Weepmizer can work with either NO or NC solenoids, I would use the NO type, like mentioned here on the forum many times. (Good Advice). In a power failure, your weep system will come on. With a NC solenoid, it will stay closed until the power comes on. Not good.....


After buying our 4 bay ss 2 months ago, the weepmizer was the first thing I made changes to. My solenoid was a 24v type and relied on input voltage from my floor heat boiler transformer. This required the power to be "On" to my boiler just so the Weepmizer would cycle the solenoid. When the temps dropped to 30° - 32°, the boiler would kick on. Needless to say, I had a very large Jan.-Feb. Natural Gas and elect. bill. I could have changed the T-stat setting, but I made this change instead.

I changed my solenoid to 120v. which allowed me to iscolate it from my boiler and not add an aditional 24v transformer. Now I can leave the breaker off to my boiler when not needed. I put a switch inline to the 120v input to the weepmizer/solenoid circuit. This allows me to flip the switch off which kills power to my NO solenoid, thus opening water flow. Now I can test all my weep guns to make sure I don't have any that are clogged. I'm sure many do the same thing here. Hope this helps....
 
FWIW . Called Dixmor. It is set up for NO. Built in power failure opening to avoid freezing. Good idea. I already have this option with a third NO solenoid t'd in and tied to the power, which opens if the power fails.

GOOD NEWS is for no extra charge they will set it up for NC. This helps me 3 ways.

1. I save $140.00 plus Shipping to not have to buy 2 NO solenoids.
2. I keep spares of the NC in stock since the rest of the washes use these.
3. I don't have to do any plumbing / wiring to replace the NC with NO.

Time for a review Bill!
 
Earl Weiss said:
FWIW . Called Dixmor. It is set up for NO. Built in power failure opening to avoid freezing. Good idea. I already have this option with a third NO solenoid t'd in and tied to the power, which opens if the power fails.

GOOD NEWS is for no extra charge they will set it up for NC. This helps me 3 ways.

1. I save $140.00 plus Shipping to not have to buy 2 NO solenoids.
2. I keep spares of the NC in stock since the rest of the washes use these.
3. I don't have to do any plumbing / wiring to replace the NC with NO.

Time for a review Bill!
Click to expand...

So, Install the weep mizer last spring but of course it never got cold enough to use it. Now, it seems to be working backward. Suspect it was not set up for NC solenoids as I requested.

I call Dixmor with the serial # and ask to confirm they set it up for NC solenoids, and they say. "oh, we have not been able to set them up for NC solenoids for over a year. " Ask why tey said they could when I ordered it in the spring. "Well we thought we could" . Asked why they never let me know it was not what I asked for. Did not get a reply.

NO solenoids have been ordered . So much for the cost savings. Hope it doesn't get too cold or i'll just have to let the weep run until they get here.
 
To my knowledge only the older Weepmizer’s can be modified to work with a normally closed solenoid valve. The new Weepmizers have a different microprocessor inside that don’t allow them to be converted to work the normally closed solenoid valve. The newer version also uses a different temperature sensor, it uses a Yellow sensor. The Yellow sensor will not work with the older Weepmizer. The reason they had to change the internal electronics is the parts are no longer are available. We use 1 ASCO 8210G34 Normally open solenoid valve to control all the weep water at our washes.
 
If they couldn't do it:

a. They should have not told me they could, or at least
b. Once they sent me a unit which was not set up how I ordered it at least told me so I could make the neccessary adjustments instead of making myself nutty trying to figure out why it was not working how it was supposed to.
 
If it's not too late, you could add a SPDT relay on the Weepmizer's circuit to operate your existing solenoids.
 
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