Weep Mizer Wiring

[Buzzie8]

I just bought a used weep mizer. I have two washes and the one already has a weep mizer. You would think that I would have no problem wiring it because I can look at the other wiring but one thing is throwing me curve. There are a total of three wires coming out of my existing one. One goes to the sensor. One goes down to a solenoid to open the weep. And a third (the one that I think I will not be using goes to an old anti freeze system from Mark VII that is not in use anymore. I am assuming that I wire it the same way but leave out the antifreeze lead. I need some affirmation of this. The Dixmore manual doesn't seem as thorough as I would like on this (or I am too stupid to understand) or both. If anyone knows please advise, a sensor form Kleenrite is being sent to me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Buzzie

 

[Randy]

It?s simple on your Green plug that plugs into the buttom of the weep mizer you have 10 positions. #10 ? 110 volt neutral, #9- 110 volt Hot, #8 -Output to your 110 volt Normally open solenoid valve, it?s best to use a Diaphragm type valve. #7- not used, #6- neutral to your 110 volt Normally open solenoid valve, #5- bare wire from sensor, #4- not used, #3- not used, #2- red wire from sensor, #1 black wire from sensor. If you want the complete revised manual I can E-mail to you.

 

[Ghetto Wash]

Why a diaphragm type? All mine are direct acting.

 

[Buzzie8]

Randy,
Thanks for all your help over the past year. If you could e-mail me the revised manual that would be great.
Buzzie

 

[Randy]

We?ve experienced problems with the direct acting solenoid valves not opening or not closing, like the normally open DEMA 0414. The DEMA weep solenoid valve wouldn?t shut off until we tapped on the side of the valve. We ended up replacing them all them with an ASCO 8210G34, no more problems. We have one solenoid valve that controls weep sys tem for the car wash. I was in an equipment room of one of my competitors the other day he has a solenoid valves for each bay system on his weep system, 4 per bay. You only need one valve for the wash.

 

[MEP001]

I also switched from the Dema direct plunger to diaphragm type - they used to be durable, but later models eventually fail stuck open. I've had only one Dema diaphragm-type go bad and was able to replace the diaphragm and have it work properly again. Rebuilding the direct type usually just wastes the money the kit costs.

 

[ken-pro]

We have always used the 8210G34. They seem to be the most reliable - We had similar sticking issues with the Dema solenoid on a couple of sites we tried them on - We actually had valves that would stick shut, and freeze bays. I have never had an Asco fail that way, unless it was clogged with debris.

 

[MEP001]

I have never had an Asco fail that way

I have - two of the three 1/2" Asco diaphragm solenoids on our Vector were failing to open. I've replaced both with Dema 474P's and have had no issues since.

It was Dema pilot-actuated solenoids that I've had fail to open or close completely, and I won't use those again.

 

[Buzzie8]

Randy,
Thanks for e-mailing me the manual. I am still having some trouble though. I know that the solenoid valve is an "always open" running on 24 volts. I thought I could just take the wiring from the current thermostat and plug it into the weep mizer and have it control the opening of the solenoid. There are only two wires that come from the current thermostat and they do not go directly to solenoid valve. I have attached photos of both the thermostat and the solenoid valve. The current thermostat operates the valve on the far left and it is piggy backed to all the other valves. This is on a Jim Coleman Power Pack. Maybe I should be posting there as well. I have reviewed the schematic from Coleman and they do not have the thermostat.
Thanks for your help.
Buzzie

 

[Buzzie8]

I installed the Weep Mizer today and after following all the wires and a quick call to Dixmore I figured it out. The Weepmizer is just a programable thermostat (I already knew that) and the same two wires that run the existing thermostat will also operate the solenoid to the weep system. If you have Coleman system take the wire off the thermostat that fisrt runs to the relay in thecabinet then down to the solenoid off the existing thermostat and connect to the number 8 postion on the weep mizer. Take the other wire off the existing thermostat and run it to the number 9 position on the weep mizer. Run the sensor wires to the weep mizer as depicted in the manual. Done deal, working great, thanks for your replies!
Buzzie

 

[trentu]

mizer to all 4 systems

So I have 2 coleman WW IIs, a coleman SS and a floor heat. Just got the weep mizer and think I can hook them all up with the one weep mizer. My question is for the 2 WWs and the floor heat can I just tie those input wires all together and it will work or do I need something in between? Thanks for any and all replies.

 

[Randy]

The Weepmizer max output load is 3 Amps. You might want to consider putting a relay on the Weepmizer to take the load off the Weepmizer.

 

[Rudy]

Several years back, I had the pins on the output of my WeepMizer burn. I still to this day don't know why that happened....it wasn't overloaded. When I replaced it with a new one, I ran the output through a slave relay just to keep any problems at bay. I had an old solid state relay laying around (they can be bought for $20) so I used it.

Now the Weepmizer turns on the solid state relay, which in turn activates the normally open Asco Solenoid.

 

[Ghetto Wash]

Hi,
The DX1000 is an automatic microprocessor controlled system which will drastically reduce water usage in your weep system. First winter savings averaged 65% in my 5 car washes. It will also control any secondary function you would like to turn on or off, depending on temperature, inside or out.

Quoted directly from the Dixmore website. These spammers are getting better.