Weep Mizer -22F

[lighthousecarwash]

Plugged in my weep mizer tonight as it's supposed to get down in the freezing tempatures. I checked it out last week and everything was working fine, but tonight it only reads -22F. I disconnected the temp sensor and remains -22. I assume I have a bad temp sensor, but wanted to see what everyone else thought.

Thanks,
Lighthouse.

 

[Randy]

It could be either a bad sensor or a defective unit.

http://www.dixmor.com/TIMER PDF/DX1000 INSTR.pdf

That’s one of the reasons I leave ours plugged in year around.

I have a ball valve on the upstream side of the water supply to the solenoid valve that supplies water to the weep system and a switch on the power supply to the weep solenoid. Come about April I’ll close the ball valve and turn off the power to the weep solenoid and leave the Weep Mizer unit plugged in. About early October I turn the power and open the ball valve and everything is good.

 

[2Biz]

Randy suggested this to me two years ago. I have mine set up just like he described with no probelms...weepmizer always plugged in and the power "in" controlling the weep solenoid has an "On - Off" switch wired in....A normal house light switch works great wired inline to the supply line...

One of the benefits to having it set up this way is to be able to flip the switch to test the system. Once activated and I know its going to be below freezing, I can flip the switch off (Solenoid open) which allows water to flow to the bays. Then I check to make sure everything is flowing correctly, then flip the switch back on (Closed) to turn the water flow off. It Makes it easy to test the system above freezing temps....

 

[Jeff_L]

...One of the benefits to having it set up this way is to be able to flip the switch to test the system. Once activated and I know its going to be below freezing, I can flip the switch off (Solenoid open) which allows water to flow to the bays. Then I check to make sure everything is flowing correctly, then flip the switch back on (Closed) to turn the water flow off. It Makes it easy to test the system above freezing temps....

2Biz - did you know you can test your solenoid while everything is on as well? You just have to hit the left button 3-4 times till it says On or Off, then the right button will do the same thing. I agree, a light switch in line is the most simple way, but just wanted to let everyone know it is possible to do the same thing without the switch.

Note: I would probably use a switch with a guard on it including a cotter pin which would keep the switch in the connected position. That way when you test it you have to purposely remove the pin. This would prevent any accidental bumping of the switch as well. I'm sure MEP would just plug it into his PLC and put some type of logical delay on it that would re-enable the switch in case it was forgotten to turn back on.

 

[MEP001]

I'm sure MEP would just plug it into his PLC and put some type of logical delay on it that would re-enable the switch in case it was forgotten to turn back on.

After forgetting two or three times I probably would. My memory is so bad I forget how bad it is sometimes.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

What about a spring loaded push-button switch?

 

[Jeff_L]

What about a spring loaded push-button switch?

I assume a spring loaded switch would require constant pressure? Personally I would want it to remain on while I went and checked each bay for the right stream and make adjustments. Then turn it back off/on when all done. You would really only need this function once or twice a year perhaps.

 

[2Biz]

2Biz - did you know you can test your solenoid while everything is on as well? You just have to hit the left button 3-4 times till it says On or Off, then the right button will do the same thing. I agree, a light switch in line is the most simple way, but just wanted to let everyone know it is possible to do the same thing without the switch.

Note: I would probably use a switch with a guard on it including a cotter pin which would keep the switch in the connected position. That way when you test it you have to purposely remove the pin. This would prevent any accidental bumping of the switch as well. I'm sure MEP would just plug it into his PLC and put some type of logical delay on it that would re-enable the switch in case it was forgotten to turn back on.

My weepmizer is high enough on the wall I need a step stool to get to it. It was mounted that way before I bought the CW. Plus everytime I need to get into the menus, I have to get the book out! Thanks for the info, I knew it did that, but the light switch is a no brainer for me!

Another bit of info that might be of use. I was wanting the secondary output to control the new washer fluid freezegaurd system for the Tri-foam...I was checking voltage on the secondary output and it was always showing 120v whether it was on or off...(Light on or off), So I thought the unit was broke. I emailed Dixmore and told them what was going on...They said you need to put a load on the circuit before it switches. Otherwise it always shows voltage on the circuit (either 24v or 120v depending on input voltage). I have yet to test it with the new system. Its next on the list after getting my floor heat boiler done...

 

[I.B. Washincars]

When I am just checking flows, the solenoid function, and whatnot, I just unplug the Weep-Mizer. That just seems like a no-brainer to me

 

[Jeff_L]

When I am just checking flows, the solenoid function, and whatnot, I just unplug the Weep-Mizer. That just seems like a no-brainer to me

Many ways to skin a cat. And all of us troubleshooters tend to over-engineer the issue before we figure out how to optimize it.

 

[2Biz]

And even the most over engineered systems arn't 100% perfect! My truck bay was froze solid this morning. The other three bays are weeping fine. Must have a clogged gun or something...I've tested the system every day when temps were going below freezing, up til yesterday. And the first day I felt comfortable in not checking it, it bites me in the a$$....

 

[soapy]

I have had the -22 reading in the past a few times and it has always been the temp sensor. Sometimes it is just a wire rubbed through or cut. Inspect the wire from sensor back to the weep miser. Otherwise replace the sensor.

 

[Randy]

Over the years I’ve had a number of freeze ups from not dumping enough water on the end bays. Now I’ve got it dialed in and dump a lot of water, more than I probably should but I consider it the cost of doing business. There’s nothing worse than having a freeze up on a busy day.

If you have a bad Dixmor temperature sensor make sure you order the right sensor. There is a Gray one and a Yellow one and one can’t be used on the other.

 

[lighthousecarwash]

Oh really! I just ordered a new temp sensor and the new one showed up from Windtrax today. The new one is yellow and my old one is gray. I did not see an option on their web site for a gray or yellow one and didn't know there was a difference. You just ruined my day!


Thanks,
Lighthouse.

 

[2Biz]

If you have a bad Dixmor temperature sensor make sure you order the right sensor. There is a Gray one and a Yellow one and one can’t be used on the other.

For Reference, Whats the difference?

BTW..Froze bay was a partially clogged tip. Easy fix, bay thawed out on its own and there was no damage...Lucky day!

 

[lighthousecarwash]

From what I have discovered, the yellow wire is a digital sensor and the gray is an analog sensor. Guess it matters how new your controller is. Newer ones must have the digital sensor.

Thanks,
Lighthouse.