I have been using a Walter’s two-valve float valve to fill a hot water holding tank that supplies all 7 pumps with water. I noticed recently the tank had drained completely starving the pumps of water. When the demand for hot water ceased, the tank filled back up. Upon observation of this happening, I notice the water was not flowing from the valve to the tank even when the float was in the down (fully open) position. I replaced the valve with my backup and it is now functioning properly. I tore apart the Walter’s valve and found the small inner rubber seal was completely destroyed. This is the second one I have gone through in a year and it happens without warning. Is this considered normal wear or do I have a flow/temperature problem? What is the recommended replacement time period for this diaphragm? Thanks!
Walter's float valve chewing up diaphrams
- Thread starter acbruno
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
Make sure you have a piece of hose or pipe on the outlet of the valve. If you don't, it causes the water to cascade back and forth in the tank, making the valve open and close constantly while it's filling. That wears out the diaphragm. They usually last about two years for me.
Do you run hot water through the valve?
I run cold water through my Walters valves and usually get between 3-4 years out of each one. I've tried the rebuild kit on 2 or 3 of my Walters valves, but they do not last. I have both the 1 in version and the 3/4 in version. The 1 in seems to take more of a beating lasting only about 2 - 2 1/2 years. The 3/4 valves seem to last a bit longer ~ 4 years.
My hot water tank is my open sink. The Raypak heater circulates the water from the sink through the heater back to the sink. The water fills at the top of the sink from street pressure. There are two 2 in lines that run to each set of bays. 4 on the left and 4 on the right.
I run cold water through my Walters valves and usually get between 3-4 years out of each one. I've tried the rebuild kit on 2 or 3 of my Walters valves, but they do not last. I have both the 1 in version and the 3/4 in version. The 1 in seems to take more of a beating lasting only about 2 - 2 1/2 years. The 3/4 valves seem to last a bit longer ~ 4 years.
My hot water tank is my open sink. The Raypak heater circulates the water from the sink through the heater back to the sink. The water fills at the top of the sink from street pressure. There are two 2 in lines that run to each set of bays. 4 on the left and 4 on the right.
MEP001
Well-known member
Yeah, you should. I run the water at about 125° fed under city pressure through the valve. Maybe it's a pressure problem. The thing I find most surprising is that they fail closed and you run out of water - I've never experienced that with the Waltes, which is the main reason I use them. Maybe the plain single-action Roberts would hold up better for you.acbruno said:
I had a roberts float valve in there before. The previous owner cut a notch in the brass area where the seals close so water always flows through and if no one is using the car wash the tank will eventually overflow. I relpaced it with another Roberts only to find out the reason why he did this. When the valve was just about closed, the water hammering was intense. It would shake all the pipes in the place and it was very loud. I eliminated this by switching over to the walters valve only to now have the diaphram failing issue.
I.B. Washincars
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I've eliminated 99.9% of my float valve issues without eliminating the float valves. Install a solenoid valve behind the float valve. Use a separate transformer to power the valve. I used the motor contactors to switch it on and off at a couple of washes. Most anyone can rig this up if you have unused terminals on the contactor. At my other washes I used the 11/21 switch terminals to a controller (Ginsan and IDX both have something). This way is a little better and a bonus is that I use it to shut off the air to the Flojets as well.
MEP001
Well-known member
I.B., the original problem here is that the valve wouldn't flow when it failed, so that .1% failure is a much bigger issue than a tank overflowing.
acbruno, are your issues when the Walters valve always that it doesn't flow when it goes bad, or was that a one-time fluke?
acbruno, are your issues when the Walters valve always that it doesn't flow when it goes bad, or was that a one-time fluke?
I.B. Washincars
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I realize that, but with the solenoid set-up you can put pretty much any old POS valve on there that can't failed closed.
What is your street pressure coming in to the wash, and what size pipe do you have at the inlet to the Walters valve?
I have between 120 - 180 psi street pressure with a 2 in main. Then a main pressure reducer set at 80 psi. The line at the Walters valve is 1 in. To me it may be a pressure problem (hammering pipes w/ Roberts valve or "BOB" valve), and a diaphragm issue with the Walters valve. I had the same hammering issue with the Roberts, and the BOB valve, before I switched to the Walters valve. I even went as far as to plumb a hammering / shock accumulator in-line with my water line. It helped a little with the hammering, but the Walters valve eliminated it completely. I would have to say it is the water pressure that is failing the Walters valve so quickly. I usually get 2 - 3 years out of a Walters valve before problems arise.
