Touchless best chemicals?

[Greg Pack]

You can experiment with hi-low and even hi-hi now.

You will probably have to decide which is more important and tweak accordingly. It's hard to get both good paint AND glass. My priority is paint cleaning. I have windshield washer buckets for customers that want to clean their glass.

 

[washallday]

Has anyone tried the Kleen Rite soap Kleen-track 1A Hi and Lo soap. or the 1B and 2B soap

 

[wash12]

I have tried everything, be have done hi hi, hi lo and titrated about every combo and tried different combinations of blend co products and still can't get a clean car. Reps have tried everything and have been great, I am under the impression that a touchless won't truly clean a dirty car well.

Current set up for blend co pre soaks are:
Lo PH Titrated to 10 - Rhino Brite Triple X "contains HF not sold on having this in my bay as destroys concrete"
Hi Ph Titrated to 40- HA supersat with deep soak pre soak added in on dual injector.

So biggest complaint is road film and window mask/hard water spots are not getting clean, we figured by going to a Lo pre soak that contains HF this would tackle the window mask but in my eyes it has not changed that.

Anyone out there using blend co and has a dialed in set up would love to hear what your using. We have exhausted all options and are at the point we are going in circles.

 

[chaz]

I have tried everything, be have done hi hi, hi lo and titrated about every combo and tried different combinations of blend co products and still can't get a clean car. Reps have tried everything and have been great, I am under the impression that a touchless won't truly clean a dirty car well.

Current set up for blend co pre soaks are:
Lo PH Titrated to 10 - Rhino Brite Triple X "contains HF not sold on having this in my bay as destroys concrete"
Hi Ph Titrated to 40- HA supersat with deep soak pre soak added in on dual injector.

So biggest complaint is road film and window mask/hard water spots are not getting clean, we figured by going to a Lo pre soak that contains HF this would tackle the window mask but in my eyes it has not changed that.

Anyone out there using blend co and has a dialed in set up would love to hear what your using. We have exhausted all options and are at the point we are going in circles.

I’m only familiar with Warsaw and JBS. I was always happy with the quality of Warsaw on my touchless. But I AM THRILLED with the results with JBS products. The rep came to my location several times to tweak my product. I’m actually using less product and my cost per car is down. .....AND I’m seeing even cleaner cars. No obligation to call JBS or any another company....just don’t waste your time if a rep won’t come to your location with samples to test and measure. (I do not work for or represent JBS or any soap company)

 

[slash007]

Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think you'll get window mask and road film off. I gave up on that years ago. Tried so many things then washed at two other washes and had the same result, so I just gave up. No complaints. Once those have been on there long, I found that you have to scrub them off.

 

[wash12]

Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think you'll get window mask and road film off. I gave up on that years ago. Tried so many things then washed at two other washes and had the same result, so I just gave up. No complaints. Once those have been on there long, I found that you have to scrub them off.

That is my thinking is maybe it is impossible to get off window mask but my biggest complaint is when a car comes in super dirty and we are able to take the top layer of dirt off but then the layer that was stuck to the paint leaves water spots and like a film build up that doesn't come off and it looks like the car didn't even go through our wash!

 

[chaz]

That is my thinking is maybe it is impossible to get off window mask but my biggest complaint is when a car comes in super dirty and we are able to take the top layer of dirt off but then the layer that was stuck to the paint leaves water spots and like a film build up that doesn't come off and it looks like the car didn't even go through our wash!

Again....try other products!!! I’ve been thrilled with the results of JBS products. My windows have never looked cleaner...(the inside that’s another issue)

 

[carwashireland]

I concurr with Chaz. You can get clean windows and you can get a great clean even with real dirty cars. You just need the right chemistry. I assume your water is softened. You might try increasing the titration of the blendco low ph to 20 drops! I normally set my sites up so whatever drops it takes to get a good clean with the high p.h, the low ph is set at about half the high strength. This is not with blendco though.

 

[JGinther]

Your second pass needs to have a higher titration than the first. I don't know what machine you have... But if you aren't doing any kind of rinse between passes, I would try alkaline first at around 20 drops on a dry car, then low pH at 30 to 35. If the second step isn't as strong as the first, you never actually get the pH of the car to change. Keeping the pH of the car low will assist in drying at the end of the wash also...

 

[wash12]

Your second pass needs to have a higher titration than the first. I don't know what machine you have... But if you aren't doing any kind of rinse between passes, I would try alkaline first at around 20 drops on a dry car, then low pH at 30 to 35. If the second step isn't as strong as the first, you never actually get the pH of the car to change. Keeping the pH of the car low will assist in drying at the end of the wash also...

What would tackle road film the best? I have the PDQ 360 plus, I may try to do hi lo like you said but I worry my hi will be to weak at 20 as road film build up is my biggest complaint and have been told hi works best on oily surfaces. Our soil here if alkaline at about 8 ph.

 

[chaz]

What would tackle road film the best? I have the PDQ 360 plus, I may try to do hi lo like you said but I worry my hi will be to weak at 20 as road film build up is my biggest complaint and have been told hi works best on oily surfaces. Our soil here if alkaline at about 8 ph.

It took me TEN years to learn....(way too long). I’m not a chemical guy nor was my distributor! If you’ve got a good chemical supplier they will spend some time at your wash measuring chemical usage and setting chemicals best for your operation. If you have a supplier that doesn’t offer this service.....find one that is! I did, JBS!

 

[JGinther]

What would tackle road film the best?

Friction. They wouldn't have a market for friction if touchless could do what friction does. Touchless is for the operator that wants less headaches and risk. Some materials are "insoluble" which pretty much means they aren't going to go into liquid form no matter what chemical you put on them.

I have found, however, that Presoak HA is a good fix for injector clogging issues, but a poor surfactant choice for being the main detergent. Pre-diluting presoak 2000 or Automatic first before injecting is the best solution. Don't be shy to try what I said... The surfactant is the key to making it work, the alkalinity gives you the power to stay strong with heavy soil loads so the surfactant can do its job. That's not your problem here...

 

[Greg Pack]

Lets revisit some basics.

Get this information for us:

Hardness and TDS of your pre treated tap water
Hardness and TDS of the water that is feeding your chemical blending system
Hardness and TDS of your spot free system

Maybe we can find some answers there

 

[wash12]

Lets revisit some basics.

Get this information for us: Here is the info you asked for let me know if you see anything out of the norm.

Hardness and TDS of your pre treated tap water
City water PPM is 74 hardness is 7

Hardness and TDS of the water that is feeding your chemical blending system
Soft water PPM 74 & hardness 0 to 1

Hardness and TDS of your spot free system
RO water- PPM 01 and hardness is 0

Maybe we can find some answers there[/QUOTE]

Lets revisit some basics.

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

check and make sure soap from the foam arch or foam padding is not getting on the car, i had foam from the presoak kinda sticking around the foam arm then when spot free would come it would basically drop soap on car
it looks more like left over soap in one pic and the other it doesnt even look like the chemical touched it or the soap dries on it
good luck
try a double rinse just for s.a.giggles

 

[Greg Pack]

Well, honestly I was hoping to find a problem there, but your water looks really good. At least we have ruled that out. I assume you are also collecting your presoak titration samples from the point of application. I also assume you have a decent amount of impingement force on the vehicle and your pressure is right. I think you've covered all the bases.

Frankly, If I were in your situation I would go for paint cleaning as a priority. I would turn off the wheel blasters at entry in all but times of snow and ice on the roads. It makes the presoak less effective in return for the benefit of the very few muddy vehicles that come in (which aren't desirable customers anyway). I would install a windshield washing bucket for those customers wanting to take care of eyebrow. I would go high-dwell-low and possibly even hi-hi. You could experiment swap that to lo hi during snow season (i have no experience with snow). And I would continue to network with operators in your area and find out what seems to be working best Just some suggestions I can think of.

 

[chaz]

I’d try other soaps to work on the eye brow issue. I like JBS.....