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Tankless heaters Takagi or Paloma

Kirb

Member
I have tried to get my five 26-year old palomas working. I am giving up fixing them because I spent too much time/$$$ and who knows what else is wrong with them.

I know there are more efficient ways now to heat the water. Should I replace with Palomas 1 for each bay or link them together? I need 22.5 gallon a minute total between all bays. Paloma, Takagi, or other? Which model/setup would you recommend?


Thanks,
Kirb
 
Both Paloma and Takagi have an electronic model that will heat and flow enough water to supply two bays directly. In both units is a valve that restricts water flow until the heater comes up to temp, and that valve needs to be disabled. Otherwise both units are very similar in how they work and last. You can get the Paloma version at Home Depot (It will have the name "Rheem" on it there).
 
We ripped out all the Paloma On Demand hot water heaters years ago and went to a AO Smith 90 gallon tank type 199,000 BTU water heater.
 
We ripped out all the Paloma On Demand hot water heaters years ago and went to a AO Smith 90 gallon tank type 199,000 BTU water heater.

I also use the 199K tank heaters. I started using them when I had boiler problems. I like the fact that I gained valuable space in my eq. room and don't have to deal with boiler inspections for them. PLJ did a cost analysis on water heaters and decided that these were more cost effective. I had another one installed just last month.
 
I tore out two Ray Pac boilers one for my floor and the other for my two automatics. I installed three Rinnai 199,000 heaters for the autos and a
Lochinvar copper fin for the floor. I cut my gas bills in half. I didn't remove the restrictor valves in the tankless heaters as I often wondered if that would cause condensation and destroy the heat exchangers. The water supply/pressure is fine
 
In both units is a valve that restricts water flow until the heater comes up to temp, and that valve needs to be disabled. QUOTE]

Have you actually done this? I talked to the manufacturer about this to Takagi and Noritz, and both told me that if you disable the valve, the flow sensor will detect improper flows compared to the outlet temperature and will throw a code and go out of service. If you have actually done this and it works, please let me know how, which brand, and if you had any issues at all.

Thanks!
 
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