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Sonnys Ryko Replacement Treadle Pad

I have a D & S and, like you, was having frequent problems with the mercury treadle switch. I did basically the same thing the Sonny's components would do. I used the original stainless steel frame, eliminated the treadle switch and replaced it with a tape switch just like Sonny's has pictured. I positioned the tape switch diagonally within the stainless frame so as to give the vehicle the best chance of making the switch. The only problems I've had have been wear and tear on the guide rails on the frame. The vehicles have to make a curve to get to the ACW and then would have trouble hitting the switch (always missed on the left). Since then, I had stripes painted on my lot directing a lane to the automatic and an additional stripe for the left front tire to line up for the switch. Have not had a single problem since painting the stripes ($120).
 
I replaced mercury switches with pressure pads on a Ryko friction machine and a Monarch 2. I used a double width pad that fit in the area of the mercury plate switch. I have had very little problem with the conversion. I got mine from Kleenrite. Been using the pressure plates for over 10 years.
 
Well I seem to be swimming against the stream on this one. Many times I replace one of those pads with a mercury switch. I have mercury switches in the field that I put there 10 or more years ago, and they still work fine. It's usually the connecting wires that break. I usually use heat shrink tubing to strengthen the little wires. A mercury switch is ten bucks or so, and you can get them at Radio Shack. A pad like shown will be $200 with shipping and take a day or two to get. What am I missing?
 
Like mac, I've had good luck as long as the mercury switch is installed properly. Otherwise the wires break from movement.
 
The mercury switches from D&S are pretty crummy. We used to make them and had no problems with them.
 
The only wide one I can find on the KR site is $431. It can't be $431 for a wide one when the 9" is only $140 can it? I can't get a price on the one from Sonny's today.
 
Well we removed our treadles and have a pressure pads only on the drivers side my major question is if you have to replace the pads and the concrete anchor and nut spin together then how will you replace it?
 
DiamondWash said:
Well we removed our treadles and have a pressure pads only on the drivers side my major question is if you have to replace the pads and the concrete anchor and nut spin together then how will you replace it?
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You could grind it off. You don't need all four studs to hold the pad down.
 
That's the problem the treadle will eventually need replaced and if all four concrete anchors spin in the ground and have to be grinded off I have to be able to place it right back it cannot be adjusted.
 
DiamondWash said:
That's the problem the treadle will eventually need replaced and if all four concrete anchors spin in the ground and have to be grinded off I have to be able to place it right back it cannot be adjusted.
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All I can say is mine has been in place 2-3 years. I've replaced it once. If you had a problem, a portable welding company could likely figure out a way to secure it. There's a guy near me who is somewhat reasonable.
 
No because we can only drill the holes for the anchors 2 1/2 inch deep due to the floor heat, I opted for a design attached to the track with stainless steel hardware I am currently working with Ryko Engineering on a new design.
 
You swerved into why I don't care for pads all that much. I can get a mercury switch with a cord for under $10 and they usually last longer than the expensive pads.
 
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