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softgloss tracks

D

diamond joe

New member
I noticed where the two pipes meet at the center of the track that one pipe was starting to split. I rolled the tracks over to find some seroius rust and pitting in the pipes themselves. After about three hours with a grinder I was able to clean them up but the pitting is still there.I also notice that there is more noise heard when I trolly the machine.Could this affect the life of the wheels? Any suggestions ? Tracks and wheels are $$$$$$$$$$!
Joe
 
We normally just turn them over. Unless you put new track down, there is really no other alternative. What kind of noise is it?
 
My tracks are getting in bad shape and have had them rotated, just got off the phone with Ryko Mfg and it's $700 for track I didn't check on the price on the wheels but I was told "not to replace track with bad wheels if your going to replace the tracks it's best to replace the wheels too".
 
The noise is a bit hard to describe ,,,a grunting groaning noise,,,but not along the entire length of travel....If I didnt know the noise was not there before I would assume I have bad drive wheel bearings.
How often would you recommend rotating them ?
 
diamond joe said:
The noise is a bit hard to describe ,,,a grunting groaning noise,,,but not along the entire length of travel....If I didnt know the noise was not there before I would assume I have bad drive wheel bearings.
How often would you recommend rotating them ?
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What is the specs of this pipe because I have a steel company down the road from me, but I'm not sure of the gauge size of pipe I would need and I hear steel is up in price right now.
 
We normally just turn it when it wears out on one side like you did. The crunching noise sounds like a broken weld on the wheel where the shaft is welded to the wheel. It could also be the bearing I would grease it and make sure the race is still centered in the bearing. Both of these problems would normally occur the entire distance of the track. Check to make sure the track stays are not dragging on the track support or "riser". I have had people try to make their own track to save a few bucks and this does not normally end up to save money in the long run. Ryko is correct, best to change track and wheels all at the same time. linear grooves in the track are an indication of the track not being level.
Thank you,
Mark
 
Mark-

Do you recommend the whole 24ft track piece per side or the 2 piece system per side? Ray told me that the 24ft is the best and money efficient way to go being you don't have to deal with the weldment in the middle, but that means I would have to jack up one side of the softgloss to rotate track later in years to come I don't know if you remenber Des Moines Steel on Hickman here well that's where Ryko gets the track from.
 
If you are able to get the same pipe, go with the 24' 6". Not a big deal to jack the one side up to rotate.
 
I can't imagine what they would cost in stainless. Don't forget the shipping when you are talking to Ryko. I think they wanted $400 for shipping when I was looking. I just bought shd. 80 pipe. 1 guy told me to do the joint at the entrance end as opposed to the middle. That makes sense since on small cars the machine doesn't go back that far so sometimes it never reaches the joint.
 
They are not stainless. I got the specs from Ryko once, I looked through my emails and could not find it. We keep it in stock and do not normally charge for shipping.
 
What about the gearboxes on the drive axle do you usually replace those when doing the bearings, wheels, track? reason being is that I cannot get mine off the shaft of the drive axle, do you run into this problem and have to replace the gearboxes because you can't get them off the axle? they have been on there for 6 1/2 years.
 
It is common to have to replace the gearboxes with the wheels. We always bring them just in case we can not remove them from the wheel. Ryko puts lubriplate on the shafts but after 6 years it does not always help since this gearbox is "open" (wheel shaft goes all the way through the gearbox) and the surface contact area is over six inches long.
 
Is Ryko the only place to get the gearboxes??? I know for a fact Ryko does not fabricate there own gearboxes.
 
When I had the track machines I would take the gear box and wheels to a machine shop to be pressed off. Sometimes they can get them off and save you the expense of a new gear box. Also I always replaced my bearings with stainless steel marine bearings. THey cost about $70 each vs. $40 but lasted forever. I never had to replace a stainless bearing.
 
soapy said:
When I had the track machines I would take the gear box and wheels to a machine shop to be pressed off. Sometimes they can get them off and save you the expense of a new gear box. Also I always replaced my bearings with stainless steel marine bearings. THey cost about $70 each vs. $40 but lasted forever. I never had to replace a stainless bearing.
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I may have to offer the stainless as an option, good idea!
 
You can save yourself many hundreds by going to a steel supplier. It is sch 80, and if I remember it is 1-1/2" regular steel. Most suppliers will also cut and weld it so you get the length you want. It normally comes in 20 or 21' lengths. There is nothing magic about the pipe Ryko sells.
 
Welding the track came across my mind when looking at buying a 21' piece of steel but I got 2 24' pieces from ryko for $520.00 vs there 2 piece system per side for $700.00 nobody sells 24' pieces unless they buy a truck load.
 
I just checked with a local steel shop, and they can deliver two pieces of pipe that are the correct length for $383.00.
 
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