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Sewer pumps/grinders replacement?

N

n00bie

Member
What is the price to replace 2 pumps and electrical panel nowaday? I called this local plumbing company since I see "good reviews" from "local" people. They inspected and told me that I need a new pumps and new panel. They quoted for $16500, then lower the price to $15000. OUCH!?:cautious: From Austin, TX btw.
 
why would you need a new electrical panel? I replaced my grinder pumps in 2019 with liberty barracuda pumps. There was no need to install a new panel in my case. I'm not sure why you would need that. The control panel is just breakers, contactors, timers, and wiring essentially. I would think that if any of the components in there went bad you could replace them individually without replacing the whole panel.

I found my pumps used online. They were just like new because they were installed at a military base, but never used then removed.

look at supply house online they have a whole bunch of them
 
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Waxman said:
why would you need a new electrical panel? I replaced my grinder pumps in 2019 with liberty barracuda pumps. There was no need to install a new panel in my case. I'm not sure why you would need that. The control panel is just breakers, contactors, timers, and wiring essentially. I would think that if any of the components in there went bad you could replace them individually without replacing the whole panel.

I found my pumps used online. They were just like new because they were installed at a military base, but never used then removed.

look at supply house online they have a whole bunch of them
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I wonder too. They probably want to make it a combo for bigger bill. I Did you do it yourselve? I'm too chicken to touch with all the wiring lol
 
i hired a plumber to connect my new pumps. they botched the job by connecting the pumps to the piping with rubber fernco couplings, which blew off when i restarted the pumps. then i went down the wrong path thinking there was a line issue further away from the wash ( i'm 720' from sewer tie in) because the pumps were running but tank wasn't emptying. i still get ptsd just thinking about it...
 
Wow that hurts. Just worked on mine Monday. Current pump was four years old and started tripping the breaker. Currently using liberty omnivore lsg202 which is single phase but would recommend lsg 203 three phase. Grinders on the omnivore eats through any pit muck no problem, it's never clogged. Mine is on a rail system so you can pull and replace the pump without getting down in the pit. I just ripped out all the pump controls Monday and rewired myself. All you need is a panel breaker, motor starter/overload and float switch. Then have a second float switch for high water alarm. Not sure why dual float switches are needed if the sump is big enough to avoid short cycling. You can buy the pump and all the components needed for probably 3-4K. Replacement pumps NIB are often available on eBay for $1100ish.
 
my sewer is pressurized in my section of town as opposed to gravity. my wash water goes into a holding tank and 2 pumps alternate to pump water out, under the road, and across a couple different lots then alongside a road perpendicular to the road my wash is on and finally it enters the pressure main 720' from my wash.
 
my Liberty pumps have an external run start capacitor that is in the control box. You could have a bad capacitor or a bad contactor. You could be tripping the breaker when both motors are turning on if you don’t have enough amperage. Do you ever have your lift station pumped same as pits.
 
Greg Pack said:
Wow that hurts. Just worked on mine Monday. Current pump was four years old and started tripping the breaker. Currently using liberty omnivore lsg202 which is single phase but would recommend lsg 203 three phase. Grinders on the omnivore eats through any pit muck no problem, it's never clogged. Mine is on a rail system so you can pull and replace the pump without getting down in the pit. I just ripped out all the pump controls Monday and rewired myself. All you need is a panel breaker, motor starter/overload and float switch. Then have a second float switch for high water alarm. Not sure why dual float switches are needed if the sump is big enough to avoid short cycling. You can buy the pump and all the components needed for probably 3-4K. Replacement pumps NIB are often available on eBay for $1100ish.
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My system uses 4 floats. One to prevent low water, one for turn on pump 1 ,one controls pump 2. They have alternating relay and last is for high level warning light and duplex operation
 
Carwashking said:
my Liberty pumps have an external run start capacitor that is in the control box. You could have a bad capacitor or a bad contactor. You could be tripping the breaker when both motors are turning on if you don’t have enough amperage. Do you ever have your lift station pumped same as pits.
Click to expand...
I think you might be right. I might have to try getting new capacitor and contactor (but i'ma type of guy scare of electricity, so I don't know lol). The issue was it stopped auto turn on then I have to manually hit the contactor to turn on. Then at one point it stopped working.
So I see him testing out the electrical line, at first notice the small fuse burnt out. Putting in new one and the contactor turns on but he measure the ampere is to high (shown 33 amp) when it suppose to be around 12 something? And he claim that the pump is *old and bad* will pop the fuse again..
 
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