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Self Serve Spot Free Pump/Motor Recommendation

OurTown

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I'm guessing that 3/4 of our customers use it. Only every once in a while do I see someone try to rinse soap of with it.
 

MEP001

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I've always used just a booster pump:


Pushes the spot free at around 180-200 psi .. seems to last forever.
Those used to be really good - I've seen them in service 30 years. They don't last like they used to, rarely more than 10 years.

180 PSI running through a large solenoid and 3/8" hose and check valve feels about the same to me as 250 PSI through a 3/32" orifice Kip and 3/8" OD tubing at the gun. The difference in cost between 3/8" ID hose and 3/8" OD tubing makes the Procon much more cost-effective.
 

mjwalsh

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We have a 1 HP Tonkaflo SB519X-4200 multistage pump for the RO make up water portion of our Spot Free System. It has been trouble free since 1987 ... anybody familiar with that brand?
 
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bigjws

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Those used to be really good - I've seen them in service 30 years. They don't last like they used to, rarely more than 10 years.

180 PSI running through a large solenoid and 3/8" hose and check valve feels about the same to me as 250 PSI through a 3/32" orifice Kip and 3/8" OD tubing at the gun. The difference in cost between 3/8" ID hose and 3/8" OD tubing makes the Procon much more cost-effective.
I'll leave the math to you .. I just know that I've still got one going on 19 years, and I've replaced 4 others in the past 5ish years that had all gone a minimum of 12 years, maximum of 17 years -- but we'll see how these new ones hold up. I know the procons I use for tire cleaner and foam brush don't last nearly that long -- of course, they are pumping chemicals and not just water. I've never had a complaint about the pressure, and I'd welcome them trying to rinse with it as it would take them a LOT more time and money! :)
 

Bricks

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the motor is a baldor, here's a pic of the spec plate:
View attachment 499
My SFR went out today and I have three hydraulic pump stands (spares). What would I have to do to make one work? If even possible. BB179699-656A-40CF-A70D-BFED3C6205E1.jpeg ED0E579D-5D3D-405F-8087-A177E2246FB9.jpeg
Below is what I’ll be replacing. A9A54D5D-5B94-4771-B830-AD1BB52B5111.jpeg 95228B27-14B8-4320-9F19-40CE4966DFE6.jpeg F6E6EBF9-D098-4F0F-9C88-13FDFBAA5A55.jpeg
Thanks for any info! I’m so tired of spending so dang much money. I also have this jet pump as another possible ( maybe, I have no clue)option. I figure someone on here will know. C87E71AB-0BE6-45A5-A4C3-082F8833A432.jpeg
 

mjwalsh

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My SFR went out today and I have three hydraulic pump stands (spares). What would I have to do to make one work? If even possible.
Below is what I’ll be replacing.
Thanks for any info! I’m so tired of spending so dang much money. I also have this jet pump as another possible ( maybe, I have no clue)option. I figure someone on here will know.
Based on the pics ... I would say that your hydraulic systems do NOT have the stainless steel, plastic, &/or brass needed to endure the extremely aggressive SFR RO water!
 

Bricks

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Based on the pics ... I would say that your hydraulic systems do NOT have the stainless steel, plastic, &/or brass needed to endure the extremely aggressive SFR RO water!
I forgot about that. So it’s really aggressive yet we put it on last and leave it. I’ll have to read up on that and try to wrap my little walnut around it. Don’t get me wrong,I know you’re right!
 

MEP001

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It's not all that aggressive. I have yet to see it eat away brass. I've seen a lot of cast iron booster pumps used in spot-free delivery and last over 20 years. I've used it on a car a couple times a week for many years and it didn't rust away.

The first pump you pictured is a hydraulic pump and should not be used with water. The last one won't have the volume or pressure. The one with the orange body and flanges will probably work, but it's severe overkill. You'll need a high-flow bypass regulator or it will make too much pressure and your solenoids won't open. You'll need an inline strainer to keep rust particles from the pump getting into the solenoids.
 

Bricks

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It's not all that aggressive. I have yet to see it eat away brass. I've seen a lot of cast iron booster pumps used in spot-free delivery and last over 20 years. I've used it on a car a couple times a week for many years and it didn't rust away.

The first pump you pictured is a hydraulic pump and should not be used with water. The last one won't have the volume or pressure. The one with the orange body and flanges will probably work, but it's severe overkill. You'll need a high-flow bypass regulator or it will make too much pressure and your solenoids won't open. You'll need an inline strainer to keep rust particles from the pump getting into the solenoids.
That orange one is the one currently in use. Maybe I need the high flow bypass you mentioned. It acts strange. The guage will bounce up to 250-300 for a second then maybe 20 psi. I keep getting air out of the bleeder. I think that pump has been in use since day one.
 
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