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self serve bay not working

If the display in the bay is working, it's not the transformer. If the low pressure functions are working and not the high high pressure, it's not the transformer.

You probably hooked up the contactor wrong, or you have the wrong contactor. Check the coil voltage to be sure it's 24V AC.
 
MEP, you were correct, the voltage on the contactor was 120 volts, we ordered a new transformer because we weren't get 24 volts at the bottom. display has gone out also, not sure what we have burnt up.....display? transformer? Ordered a new contactor it will be here Monday. The voltage was so tiny on the contactor we never checked. live and learn. ugh
 
I've actually seen a guy make that same mistake twice. I have a picture somewhere of his fragrance vac where he replaced the vac motor relay with a transformer.
 
What kind of timer do you have? You might want to order another one or ask someone here on the Forum if they have a used one they spare. I think you’re going to need a Timer and the display. If you put 120 volts to the timer I can almost put money on it that you’ve ruined the timer/display.
 
Guys, here is the latest, we replaced the contactor with a 24 volt, got rid of the 120 volt contactor. Bay still will not work. tried the display on the working bay and moved to the non working bay, wont work. moved the timer from the non working bay to working bay, it works. moved the transformer from the working bay to non working bay, wont work. moved the transformer back to the working bay it blew the fuses, now neither bay is working. Called one electrician he couldn't find the problem. perplexed.
 
aca carwash 2 said:
Guys, here is the latest, we replaced the contactor with a 24 volt, got rid of the 120 volt contactor. Bay still will not work. tried the display on the working bay and moved to the non working bay, wont work. moved the timer from the non working bay to working bay, it works. moved the transformer from the working bay to non working bay, wont work. moved the transformer back to the working bay it blew the fuses, now neither bay is working. Called one electrician he couldn't find the problem. perplexed.
Click to expand...

Sounds like your problem bay smoked your good transformer. When you put the smoked transformer back in the operational bay, it blew the fuse because when you smoke a transformer, it is somewhat likely that it will short out and fail shorted versus open. Now you need 2 transformers. And you probably need someone who knows what they are doing. If you are trying it yourself, wire a fuse to protect the transformer output and buy a whole bunch of them until you figure out your problem. Its probably time to learn how to use a meter if you don't already know how, or get a better electrician than the last one, and don't have that one wire anything else for you. You evidently have a short on the wiring for your high pressure options. Where have you been getting your parts like the contactors and the overloads? Are they new? Are you using the same exact models on each bay?
 
I've probably said this 50 times on this forum, most electricians can't make head nor tail of 24 volt car wash electrical. You need an experienced car wash technician, who will probably be cheaper than an electrician.
 
Guys here is a follow up on the issue we have had with the self serve bay issue. It looks like we may have had two separate issues.
I just went back and reread everyone’s posts. Thank you all for all of your input, this forum is great.

So hears the overview......

3-4 weeks ago I turned up the regulators on the (2) ss bay pumps, one was at 500 psi, the other at 900 psi. I adjusted them too high to about 1500 psi each. Bay 2 was kicking and locked up the 24 volt contactor, not know I replaced with a 120 volt contactor, (everything looked the same except small writing at top 120 volts) at that point I think I fried something in the bay meter box, the display went out.
I then replaced the contactor with a correct 24 volt contactor (should of been more careful initially) bay still didn’t work so I ordered a new transformer, it didn’t work so I ordered 2 more, I then realized they took directional fuses, so they are all still good if anyone needs a couple. When we went to test the bay it was working fine, we did our high 5’s and pimped around like we all do when we finally fix something we couldn’t figure out. But the pimping didn’t last long, the first customer came in and put their money in and the contactor started arching and chattering all over the place......so for those who have taken the time to read my trivial posts once more.....here is the current situation. If I turn the bay on with the key everything works fine, if you use coins everything chatters, what have I fried, the timer or the touch pad? Can I jump anything to make it work, only the high pressure items don’t work, soap, rinse, and wax. Boy this is enlightening!,,,,,,
 
I was reading along and thought you had it figured out! But then read further to see the "High" didn't last long! You didn't say whether you replaced the timer? I'm thinking you fried the output??? Did you put a voltmeter on the contactor coil to see what kind of signal it was getting? Smooth or intermittent? Is it reading 24vac? Are you sure the transformer you replaced is "AC" not "DC"? You might want to use an analog meter so you can see if the voltage is jumping...Might be a little harder with a digital meter. What happens if you hold the contactor in manually? This is where I would start at this point. You sure you have the contactor wired right?

If you see intermittent signal from the timer, unhook the timer signal wires to the contactor coil and check signal again to see if its different...Just some things I can think of off the top of my head to try. A voltmeter is your friend. If your trying to diagnose this without one, you'll end up throwing a lot of $$$ at it till you find the culprit....
 
My guess with little to go off of: check the wire connections at the rotary switch. This is only the case if your key switch is for wash down and wires directly to the contactor.
 
His last post said he has touch pads instead of rotary's.... IMHO...I would never have touch pads at a CW....Honestly, I've pulled into carwashes with touch pads and I leave. Wonder how many customers do that? As hard as it is for the majority of customers to use even a rotary switch, I'm thinking even a higher number can't figure out a touch pad....Also, I would think a touch pad would make it even harder to diagnose problems, let alone the added expense when you do have a bad touch pad....As the OP is figuring out.
 
Ahh, thanks for pointing out my lack of willingness to read. In that case, check the connections at the output controller. And the control connections on the contactor rattling of the coil is from too low voltage at the coil. Lower voltage with timer than key control (if it's wired the way I'm assuming) indicates resistance at a connection or output.
 
So today I will swap a timer with the other bay and try it......

When you guys say output are you referring to the amps from the bay to the contactor? I know I am getting 9.5 amps on all 3 black wires at the bottom of my he overload.

If the contactor is arching that’s low voltage? Does that voltage come from the timer?

Sorry........
 
Output from the timer, or more likely in your case output from the pushbutton control board. I'm guessing you have GinSan doors, which has an output for the motor on the board. If the motor runs with the washdown key but it chatters when you select a high pressure function, that means the board output is weak or bad. Switching on the washdown key bypasses the board and eliminates any other problem. You may have to swap the entire door to another bay to confirm.
 
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