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Rytec Wyndstar Issue

JGinther

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There is no risk in connecting or disconnecting the red and white wire. That is exactly what the limit switch is doing.

You would use a voltmeter to measure the signal output of the sensor. Meter on dc, black lead on 0vdc, red lead on the black wire from the receiver.
 

SparklesSS

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There is no risk in connecting or disconnecting the red and white wire. That is exactly what the limit switch is doing.

You would use a voltmeter to measure the signal output of the sensor. Meter on dc, black lead on 0vdc, red lead on the black wire from the receiver.
0vdc as in grounding it?
 

JGinther

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0vdc as in grounding it?
No. As in put the black lead from the meter on 0vdc. Don't ground anything! I just looked back and you labeled it 24vdc- which means the same thing. So put the black lead on the wires from the orange wire nut in the pic.
 

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No. As in put the black lead from the meter on 0vdc. Don't ground anything! I just looked back and you labeled it 24vdc- which means the same thing. So put the black lead on the wires from the orange wire nut in the pic.
thank you for your help!
 

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Red Wire was loose and not sending the signal. Thank you for your help!
Appears I have not been successful in finding the solution. Photo eye stopped working again today. Yesterday I check it out and there was a delay between when I broken the photo eye "beam path" and when the door went back up. After doing this a few times it became quicker. Today I went there and it was not working at all. I popped off the motor cover and checked the connections to the photo eye and limit switch. all seemed good. I connected the two wires at the limit switch (red and white) but this did not help. The door would open but the stop or close controls would not work. Any suggestions?
 

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No. As in put the black lead from the meter on 0vdc. Don't ground anything! I just looked back and you labeled it 24vdc- which means the same thing. So put the black lead on the wires from the orange wire nut in the pic.
Appears I have not been successful in finding the solution. Photo eye stopped working again today. Yesterday I check it out and there was a delay between when I broken the photo eye "beam path" and when the door went back up. After doing this a few times it became quicker. Today I went there and it was not working at all. I popped off the motor cover and checked the connections to the photo eye and limit switch. all seemed good. I connected the two wires at the limit switch (red and white) but this did not help. The door would open but the stop or close controls would not work. Any suggestions?
 

SparklesSS

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Check the red and white wire first.....both open and shorted. I bet that's your problem.
Appears I have not been successful in finding the solution. Photo eye stopped working again today. Yesterday I check it out and there was a delay between when I broken the photo eye "beam path" and when the door went back up. After doing this a few times it became quicker. Today I went there and it was not working at all. I popped off the motor cover and checked the connections to the photo eye and limit switch. all seemed good. I connected the two wires at the limit switch (red and white) but this did not help. The door would open but the stop or close controls would not work. Any suggestions?
 

JGinther

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What happens when you have the red or white wire off? Do you know how to set the limits? That one should be set to allow they eye to work until the door is at the level of the eye. Then the signal will be bypassed by the limit switch (eye will then be ignored until door is above eye level again.)
 

SparklesSS

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What happens when you have the red or white wire off? Do you know how to set the limits? That one should be set to allow they eye to work until the door is at the level of the eye. Then the signal will be bypassed by the limit switch (eye will then be ignored until door is above eye level again.)
Think I finally figured it out. 24v steady from the black wire coming from the emitter into terminal 5. When the receiver drops voltage the emitter maintains it so the limit switch doesn’t activate. Removed the black emitter wire from terminal 5 and all seems to be good. Will keep you updated if anything changes. Thanks again!
 

JGinther

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There should be no connection in the emitter for the black wire... Only in the receiver. Not sure how you would be getting voltage from the emitter when it's not supposed to be connected. It's a good plan to keep those separate anyway... I'm not sure why rytec would have wiring diagrams showing them wired together... Probably trying to 'keep things simple'. That should not have been the cause of your problem... Lol.
 

SparklesSS

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There should be no connection in the emitter for the black wire... Only in the receiver. Not sure how you would be getting voltage from the emitter when it's not supposed to be connected. It's a good plan to keep those separate anyway... I'm not sure why rytec would have wiring diagrams showing them wired together... Probably trying to 'keep things simple'. That should not have been the cause of your problem... Lol.
I was surprised to find voltage in that line....could be on its way out.
 

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If the bypass microswitch is NOT making a good connection between the red and white wire....the photo cell amplifier will be receiving a "weak" signal. Connect the red and white wires with a good jumper. See what happens. Again, I bet there's a good chance the photo eye system will shows signs of better reliability. If so...the problem rests in a failing microswitch.

Jumper it...and report back.
 

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If the bypass microswitch is NOT making a good connection between the red and white wire....the photo cell amplifier will be receiving a "weak" signal. Connect the red and white wires with a good jumper. See what happens. Again, I bet there's a good chance the photo eye system will shows signs of better reliability. If so...the problem rests in a failing microswitch.

Jumper it...and report back.
Tested that and it made no difference. Think I finally figured it out. 24v steady from the black wire coming from the emitter into terminal 5. When the receiver drops voltage the emitter maintains it so the limit switch doesn’t activate. Removed the black emitter wire from terminal 5 and all seems to be good. Probably why nothing changes when I bypassed the micro. Will keep you updated if anything changes. Thanks again!
 
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