Roof Trough for bay hoses

[Rudy]

The roof trough that holds the hoses for the bays needs to be replaced. The original trough was made from galvanized sheet metal....the type that's used for ductwork in houses. After 25 years, it's finally rusted past the point of repair.

Any suggestions what to use to make a new trough?

 

[soonermajic]

PVC w/ some holes drilled in it.
Or spray paint hoses white. Will keep em MUCH cooler in Summer

 

[Randy]

Since the galvanized sheet metal trough lasted 25 years why not replace it with another galvanized sheet metal trough. But then on the other hand how many more years do you plan on staying in the car wash business, it might make more sense to build a trough out of plywood if you plan on existing within the next couple of years or whatever is the least expensive.

 

[Earl Weiss]

If trough needs to be insulated an HVAC Contractor can probably make one and you can use ridged insulation for top, Sides and bottom. Paint or undercoating type covering may prolong life. Plywood - Painted might last a log time. Perhaps cover with roofing material.

 

[MEP001]

It would be expensive, but signboard plywood would hold up well, no need to paint it. At least it won't rust.

Coleman washes have galvanized troughs on the roof made from a much heavier metal than ductwork.

 

[cantbreak80]

We use a local “residential duct supplier” to fab our troughs.

22ga galvanized steel, bent to form an “L”.

8-1/2” wide x 5-1/2” high x 1” lip x 10’ long.

2 ”L“s create the trough and provides swing room for wrenches.


We glue 3/4” polyiso to insulate…and heat cable to keep it warm.
The Dewalt track saw makes quick work of cutting the polyiso.

View attachment 4343 View attachment 4341 View attachment 4342 View attachment 4344

 

[Rudy]

Thanks for the pics. That looks like a great setup.

I'll get some bids on the metal work.

BTW....how did you glue the insulation to the metal?

 

[cantbreak80]

Degrease the sheet metal. Most sheet metal rolls have a thin film of oil from the factory…and dirt from the brake.

To prevent chemical melting of the poly-iso, use foamboard adhesive like: Loctite PL300

We use a Milwaukee Caulking Gun because our hands cramp badly trying to manually apply the thick adhesive…and the application goes twice as fast.

Allow the adhesive to cure by carefully stacking each section. Carefully, so the fresh adhesive doesn’t allow slippy-slide of the foam board…that’s a PIA to resolve on the jobsite.