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Replacing MH with CFL Revisited

I've gotten good service from them with no slow shipping issues. The one thing I didn't like was that they would not let me return two brand new ballast kits for the MH that I no longer need. They are brand new and unopened and all I got was that it was policy that they just don't accept returns on ballast kits.
 
I need to be more efficient so I am set on converting my 175MH bays to CFL's. I called 1000bulbs and they said buy a few different bulbs and try them. I see 65, 85, and 105 watt cfl's and also 4200, 5000, and 6500 full spectrum bulbs. In your experience what is the best wattage to go with? Is there an advantage or disadvantage to going to 6500? Will these bulbs be good for replacing 175 MH bulbs on side of building also?

Thanks,
Kirb
 
Kirb,

I would go with the 105W at 5000K. You can see from the pictures IBWashincars posted that it is very close (maybe brighter) than the 175W MH.

IMO, the light appears brighter (and more harsh) as you go up in color temperature. Most of the MH bulbs are 4100K. I have an area light at my house that is 6500K and the light carries very well but it has a blue tint to it. I would go with the 5000K.

Make sure the bulb fits your housing before you order it. It barely fits in my 250MH wall pack.
 
1000bulbs has been overall very good for me. There's a warehouse close to me, so my orders generally take one day. The bulb you ordered was likely out of stock and backordered.
 
Kirb, I tried both the 5000 & 6500, one of each to start. The 6500 was 10 bucks higher. I settled on the 5000 because I couldn't tell any difference other than the price. That lone 6500 is in one of my bays. If I didn't point it out, I doubt that you could find it.
 
I ordered the 105watt CFl's with medium base. 5000k full spectrum.
Also ordered the medium base sockets to switch out the mogul bases I have now.
They should be here tomorrow. I'll post pics of how they fit my Hubbell fixtures with the glass lenses.
The medium base CFL's are about 3/4" shorter than the mogul.
And the medium base sockets are about 1" shorter so I'm anticipating good clearance.
 
I understand why people would want to upgrade their lights to the CFLs. It is a more efficient way to light your bays. I think we should look even further when doing a light upgrade. Replacing the MH with a new T5 HO fixture makes more sense. 2- 4 foot T5 HO bulbs 54 watts each put out 30% more light while using only 3 more watts than a 105 watt CFL. The bulbs last twice as long, 20,000 hours vs. 10,000 hours, and a T5 bulb cost is $3 vs $20 for the CFL. The T5 also has a higher CRI index. Between the savings on energy and the savings on bulbs you are further ahead to replace with a T5 fixture compared to converting to a CFL. Plus if you check with your local electrical supplier they probably have a program that will offset most of the cost of the fixture upgrade. Check out EPACT program which is a govenment program that works in addition to the electrical savings program.
 
soapy said:
I understand why people would want to upgrade their lights to the CFLs. It is a more efficient way to light your bays. I think we should look even further when doing a light upgrade. Replacing the MH with a new T5 HO fixture makes more sense. 2- 4 foot T5 HO bulbs 54 watts each put out 30% more light while using only 3 more watts than a 105 watt CFL. The bulbs last twice as long, 20,000 hours vs. 10,000 hours, and a T5 bulb cost is $3 vs $20 for the CFL. The T5 also has a higher CRI index. Between the savings on energy and the savings on bulbs you are further ahead to replace with a T5 fixture compared to converting to a CFL. Plus if you check with your local electrical supplier they probably have a program that will offset most of the cost of the fixture upgrade. Check out EPACT program which is a govenment program that works in addition to the electrical savings program.
Click to expand...

A T5 HO has 4 sockets and 1 ballast versus no ballast and 1 socket on the CFL. Should the potential for additional maintenance on the T5 HO be factored into the equation?
 
Each CFL has the ballast built into the bulb which is why they have a higher cost. I was thinking of the sealed water tight T5 HO fixtures. I have had no problem with these in the 2 years I have been using them and have not replaced one single bulb or ballast. I also have a lot of 42 watt CFLs that use a bulb without the ballast built in that work OK but not as well as the T5 HOs. The T5 is just more efficient overall and for the long term is a better way to go.
 
soapy said:
The T5 is just more efficient overall and for the long term is a better way to go.
Click to expand...

That may very well be the case, especially on a new wash. The fact that most CFLs are used as conversions is worth a lot IMO. We are using existing fixtures, wiring, conduit, and most likely not paying an electrician. All of that combined with a "15 minute per light" conversion, getting rid of the 40-100 dollar ballast, and lower power bill is quite attractive.
 
Pat, I agree with everything you said. I was just pointing out that if your utility has a program they may pay all the costs for an upgrade with no out of pocket money needing to be spent. I installed all of my T5 lights myself in about 30 minutes each. My hubbell MH fixtures were not worth saving after 15 years in the bays.
 
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Are the bulbs for the t5 HO lights a special "HO" bulb or are they the same T5 bulb you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes?
 
copperglobe said:
Are the bulbs for the t5 HO lights a special "HO" bulb or are they the same T5 bulb you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes?
Click to expand...
My local Lowe's has the T5 HO bulbs, but not all of them stock them.

They are different and not interchangeable.
 
I'm off to a rough start with my CFL conversion.
I changed out six lights Sunday afternoon. Tested them and they looked great.
Came back after dark and one had failed.
Changed it out monday morning and converted one more. Up to seven now.
Went back last night and I now have three more not working.
Total of four have failed so far.:(
I'll change out the three today and see what happens.
 
Are you sure that the lights were originally wired 120V. A couple of years ago I had a contactor fail several times over a week or so. I finally realized that it was wired 208V and I was installing one with a 120V coil. It wouldn't burn up instantly, but would work for a while before failing.
 
Check your voltage anyway. I've seen partially damaged transformers that up the voltage beyond 140VAC. I found out due to excessive bulb burning.
 
Just going back over the basics not covered. Did you bypass or take out the transformer and capacitor? If not, this is causing your problem...

I haven't had any failures like that. Actually not a single one...All my CFL's have been burning strong for a year now, no failures...
 
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