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R.O. system

Bubbles Galore

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I have a 5 year old ginsan RO system. What if anything needs to be done to keep the system up and running properly? I haven't had to do anything yet except replace a stuck open solenoid. I don't like to just wait until something breaks to go in and fix it. Any help would be appreciated.
 

mac

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Their RO system is an amazing example of overbuilding/engineering. I have worked on many here and the best thing that I've come up with is removing about half of the components. You can literally take off about thalf the items and it still produces the same amount of water. You just need the basic production items.
 

sterlingh20

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I have the same system and have nothing but problems and have considered just replacing it. The system is way too complicated for what it does. What parts can i remove to make to simpler?
 

Bubbles Galore

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If there is something that can be removed to simplify the system then by all means please share.
 

MEP001

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The Water Lover's RO system uses the RO product to flush the membranes after every cycle, and in my opinion is completely unneccessary and overcomplicated. All you need is solenoid for supply, pump, solenoid from outlet of membrane(s) to drain for the flush and two flow controls (One to recirculate some of the reject back into the pump, one to the drain or catch tank if the reject is recovered.) When replumbing these, I've always used a JE Adams flow-through high-pressure regulator with about 1/4" of the spring cut off to control the pressure, and simply let the bypass from that be the reject, and use a needle or ball valve for the recirc. It works, it's cheap, reliable, and it's more efficient than flushing with product. I've also found that replumbing a system that has no recirculation of the reject to add that feature will both increases the product from the membrane and reduce the wasted water. If it affects the life of the membrane, it's insignificant.
 

MEP001

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Forgot to reply to the original post - there's not a lot of maintenance for an RO system - just change the prefilter as needed (Many have gauges before and after it, so you only need to change the prefilter when there's a pressure variance between them - once a month is usually too often and wasteful). Check the product quality either with a tester or on your windows, and once a month test for chlorine, which I do at the reject since it will be concentrated and more easily read. If the carbon filter is saturated it can no longer remove chlorine, which will destroy a TFC membrane.
 
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