quirkie arch rotate fail laser 4000

[cherokee235]

I keep getting intermittent arch over rotation at the left driver's rear. It will swing all the way and hit the t-bar. We replaced all three sensors and it still does it. What concerns me is that I'm getting some faint illumination on x15, 16, or 17 (depending on arch positon) when the trolley or bridge is traveling around the car. It's not full lighting, but very dim. I think the Lasermind is getting some false signals, thus confusing itself.

The appropriate input is fully lit as it should be depending on the arch position. It is the other one or two that twinkle when they shouldn't.

My next parts change will be replacing the three wiring leads from the sensors to J4. Anyone have any other ideas what's going on here?

 

[lag]

Since it is happening in the same spot. I would guess that x16 is staying on to long. New cable for x16 would be the next step.If it continues,I would then look at x15(first choice for me),or x17 not coming on. Cables would be the logical choice.

If still continues ,the green festoon may be the problem ,before you change any prox cables inspect the cable from the j4 to the j2,looking closely at the areas where the brackets hold the festoon cable,look for breaks in the cable.

You are on the right track. I have seen the slight illumination in the newer machines ,and it has not caused any issues for me. Seems to be related to having the ABB speed controller ,however x30 prox should have a shielded cable. Maybe Mike ,or someone from pdq can explain it.

 

[Waxman]

my machine is different, but i had an overrotate problem and it turned out to be the motor brake on the rotate motor for the spraybar.

 

[cherokee235]

my machine is different, but i had an overrotate problem and it turned out to be the motor brake on the rotate motor for the spraybar.

Thanks Lag, I think we are both on the same page.

Waxman, what is a motor brake? I don't think I have one on my 4000

 

[Waxman]

it's what quickly stops the motor that rotates the arch once the sensors say stop. mine was 'free floating' a bit and then would miss the prox target and shut down the wash in progress.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4Z447?Pid=search

 

[cherokee235]

finally fixed

After all the parts I threw at it, the x16 cable end was the cause.
We just couldn't isolate the problem. All the sensors and cables are new, now. It's difficult when it only fails once in a while.

Thanks for the help.

 

[cherokee235]

Well, I thought I had this fixed. Now, intermittently it shoots past X16 just enough to get arch index fail. It only does it on the last rotation as the trolley prepares to park at home, not on any of the other cycles, therefore, it is always at home base and the car has finished the wash. At least the customer is getting the full wash, but the machine then shuts down, pages, and we have to rotate the arch and reset.

I tried adjusting the cam, but it throws it off a few degrees at 90, 180, and 270. It is even off at home unless it over shoots a bit. It could wash 50 cars then overshoot.

Is the last rotation on the last cycle as the trolley parks at home a bit faster than the rest? If so this may be a problem. I don't seem to have any rotational slop in the gear box. I have seen the key shear off before, but I don't think that is my problem.

Any ideas?

 

[ProCarWashes]

Rotation problem

I would check the 1" swivel. If its worn, it will bind up the machine. Cause all kinds of problems that make feel like your chasing butterflies. Disconnect the hose that is connected to the goose neck pipe. Then, with you on an eight foot ladder, move the pipe up and down, not around like it would following a car. If it's got slop, that's probably what's wrong.

 

[cherokee235]

I would check the 1" swivel. If its worn, it will bind up the machine. Cause all kinds of problems that make feel like your chasing butterflies. Disconnect the hose that is connected to the goose neck pipe. Then, with you on an eight foot ladder, move the pipe up and down, not around like it would following a car. If it's got slop, that's probably what's wrong.

I'm not quite clear on what I'm looking for. Am I looking for slop in the swivel? or somewhere else in that one inch line, like maybe the bearing?

 

[Mike]

Well, I thought I had this fixed. Now, intermittently it shoots past X16 just enough to get arch index fail. It only does it on the last rotation as the trolley prepares to park at home, not on any of the other cycles, therefore, it is always at home base and the car has finished the wash. At least the customer is getting the full wash, but the machine then shuts down, pages, and we have to rotate the arch and reset.

I tried adjusting the cam, but it throws it off a few degrees at 90, 180, and 270. It is even off at home unless it over shoots a bit. It could wash 50 cars then overshoot.

Is the last rotation on the last cycle as the trolley parks at home a bit faster than the rest? If so this may be a problem. I don't seem to have any rotational slop in the gear box. I have seen the key shear off before, but I don't think that is my problem.

Any ideas?

Its not any faster than others cycles, you should swap out the festoon wire for X16 with a spare. If there are no spared in the Green cable use the Blue and then switch over to Red or Yellow in the bridge box.

Swivel slop or overhead bearing thats defective may also cause this, look for slop in either one.
If yo have any questions give PDQ Tech support a call.

Mike

 

[cherokee235]

Thanks Mike,

Festoon was replaced when all this began. I'll check the bearing.

 

[autobright]

Check tire pressure / wear on trolley tires. Have you replace the rollers on your bridge lately? Our 4000 rollers were worn and the bridge had to much play left and right. The prox sensor was picking up bolts and overriding the sonic sizing. The bridge thought it was at the back of the bay and would rotate.

 

[ProCarWashes]

Bearing,swivel

I'm referring to the 1" swivel just above the trolley. The bearing is above that. The 1" pipe goes through the bearing and then down to the 1" swivel. Disconnect the hose to the 1" pipe and wiggle / push up on the 1" pipe to see if there is play in the bearing or swivel. If there is, this could cause the problem you have been having. If you find that it is a worn out swivel then when you replace it, make sure you use an alignment tool so that when you reinstall the pipe, the bearing is absolutely directly above the swivel. This is done so that the swivel will not waller out/ wear out. If your off just a little bit, the swivel will not last! I borrowed an alignment tool from my distributor. It's good practice to replace the bearing at the same time even if it's not bad.

 

[lag]

Both of the positions that it is over rotating, has one thing in common. X15 must come on. you may also want to revisit ,x15 cable ,prox ,or position in the green festoon. Just throwing that out there.