What's new
Car Wash Forum

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Pre-soak high or low PH?

It is a high pH. We are using Fonic pH Plus for high pressure soap but Action high for presoak. Low pH presoak should be used for automatics when you have a high pH product to compensate. It is not intended for self serve.
Thank you, I have a 4 Bay self serve. So, high PH it is.

I found some Fresh and Clean that is alkaline that has been hidden behind stuff for who knows how long. Do these chemicals go bad?
 
we use a HP soap (Florida Citrus) that has an aroma. Most SS HP soaps are the same (although I am sure some here may differ in that opinion). Probably more of a difference if you use warm-hot water for the soap. SS customers will get a better outcome if they use the foam brush as water power and Chemcials alone have a limited cleaning ability. No substitute for elbow grease.
 
Thank you, I have a 4 Bay self serve. So, high PH it is.

I found some Fresh and Clean that is alkaline that has been hidden behind stuff for who knows how long. Do these chemicals go bad?
They do have a shelf life, and most will say it is between 1-2 years, but honestly, I have never seen a product spoil. I think it would also make a difference if it is still sealed in its original container. Once it is open and mixed, etc., I think you can begin to see degradation.
 
We use Simoniz high ph Correct as a S/S presoak, it works well. We used to use kleen-rite supper wash but they changed the vendor and it diosesn't work as well as it did before they changed vendors.
 
Last edited:
I use KR Low PH for Pre Soak and HP. IMO the dilution level makes it safe for retail use.
Earl does that remove road film better than a nuetral product? I've never seen a low do anything much to clean a painted surface unless it has HF, but I'm not dealing with road salt either.
 
Chemicals alone will not remove anything in a touch free wash. They loosen the dirt. The distance of the HP arm to the car and the speed the arm travels is what can make a difference in the outcome of a TF wash.

for self service cleaning it is the pressure and the way a customer uses the wand (distance from car).
 
Chemicals alone will not remove anything in a touch free wash. They loosen the dirt. The distance of the HP arm to the car and the speed the arm travels is what can make a difference in the outcome of a TF wash.

for self service cleaning it is the pressure and the way a customer uses the wand (distance from car).
That’s also why you can get away with a lower strength chemical in a self serve than a touchfree IBA. You can hold the wand closer, go over troubled areas more than once, let a spot dwell for an extended time, re apply, etc.
 
You need both high ph and high pressure, in my area anyway. Even scalding hot water at high pressure won't remove road film.
 
You need both high ph and high pressure, in my area anyway. Even scalding hot water at high pressure won't remove road film.
Yes that’s true in any area. I think Roz was commenting that both are necessary and in an IBA, the impact, caused by distance of the arm, and speed of the arm play a big part in removing the soil that the presoak has loosened. That’s why some of those older fixed track machines were not great on back ends of cars - even with good high pH presoak and hot water, the high pressure was just too far away to effectively remove soil.
 
Back
Top