I'm not sure if that's possible or not. I tried that with the motor/fan assy that is on the end of my IBA tube heaters. They had a Fasco motor and by the time the motor shop bought a motor and adapter to fit the fan housing, then had to cobble up an electrical box on the motor, I paid as much as I would have for a new motor/fan assy. I suspect that the OEM motors are intentionally made just a little different to make you buy replacements from the manufacturer. I have the opposite problem - dead gear boxes but good motors. If you find a replacement motor I would love to know what it is so that I could get one as a spare. Good luck - those motors are overpriced and it would be nice to find a substitute. One other thing - I also tried it with the wheel scrub motor and the little motor that rotates the center nozzle on the WW driers and had no luck.
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Oscillator motor/gearbox
- Thread starter washnvac
- Start date
I'm not sure if that's possible or not. I tried that with the motor/fan assy that is on the end of my IBA tube heaters. They had a Fasco motor and by the time the motor shop bought a motor and adapter to fit the fan housing, then had to cobble up an electrical box on the motor, I paid as much as I would have for a new motor/fan assy. I suspect that the OEM motors are intentionally made just a little different to make you buy replacements from the manufacturer. I have the opposite problem - dead gear boxes but good motors. If you find a replacement motor I would love to know what it is so that I could get one as a spare. Good luck - those motors are overpriced and it would be nice to find a substitute. One other thing - I also tried it with the wheel scrub motor and the little motor that rotates the center nozzle on the WW driers and had no luck.
I finally got to install the part # SR001095 in my oscillating motor gearbox. It fit perfectly. That part # includes the shaft, gear, and thrust bearings. If you do this rebuild make sure not to lose the washers (4 total) that go on each side of the thrust bearings. I cleaned out the gear box with carb cleaner and then blew it out with air. I put vasoline on the orings that are on each end of the case where the shaft exits. I also discovered an oil plug in the gearbox. It is a little allen head screw. So I filled the gearbox with 140w gear oil, put Never Sieze on all the screws and put it back together. The shafts turn fine and the new gear meshed nicely with the worm gear on the motor shaft. CFCW thank you for sharing these part #'s with us. I am ordering 2 more today to put in the other 2 motors that I have.
Ok, it really didn't go this smoothly. I will leave out all my mistakes which ate up a ton of time. Live and learn. Hopefully by posting these tips it will save you guys from making the same mistakes.
Tools needed
aforementioned Baldor Kit.
Gear Oil- I used Mobil I synthetic (what the Baldor factory uses)
7/16" wrench
7/16" deep well socket
#2 phillips screwdriver
1/4" nutdriver
Brake cleaner
Cleaning brushes
paper towels
anti seize
silicone grease
paint (to re-coat gearbox)
Remove oscillating motor from mount and remove gearbox. I left it connected.
If you can get the screws out without them breaking, half the battle is won. I marked the shaft so I would know how the assembly went in. I took a rubber hammer and tapped on the the left shaft and and the entire assembly and cover popped out. I noted the placement of the washers and small things that looked like tiny bearings on the shaft
I clean out the gunk with a can of brake clean and my wife's toothbrush.
I then lubricated the rubbed seals with silicone grease and put the new shaft assembly back in.
I covered the internal machined parts and coated the gearbox with some spray galvanizing I had. I put the screws back in after treating them with anti-seize and put the gearbox back on. I placed the gearbox on it's side and topped it off with 2 ounces of gear lube. I then re-attached the motor to the mount and re-connected the rod going to the spraybars. However, after mounting I noticed an excessive amount of side to side play in the shaft assembly in comparison to the other motors, so I took the asembly back apart and shimmed the internals with a stainless steel 1/2" washer. This took all the excess play out.
Cost was $80 for the kit and $20 for the quart of sythetic gear oil (of which I used two ounces). I could rebuild another one is about an hour. I ordered a repair kit from my Baldor rep and plan to have a rebuilt one ready to go. I could swap this gearbox assembly out with a rebuilt one faster than I could change the motor.
Time will tell if this was a smart use of time and money. I got four years out of the $400 oscillating motor. I figure if I get two more years out of the oscillating motor, the rebuild was worth it. Less than a year and I would have just been better off to replace the entire assembly.
Hope this helps!
Tools needed
aforementioned Baldor Kit.
Gear Oil- I used Mobil I synthetic (what the Baldor factory uses)
7/16" wrench
7/16" deep well socket
#2 phillips screwdriver
1/4" nutdriver
Brake cleaner
Cleaning brushes
paper towels
anti seize
silicone grease
paint (to re-coat gearbox)
Remove oscillating motor from mount and remove gearbox. I left it connected.
If you can get the screws out without them breaking, half the battle is won. I marked the shaft so I would know how the assembly went in. I took a rubber hammer and tapped on the the left shaft and and the entire assembly and cover popped out. I noted the placement of the washers and small things that looked like tiny bearings on the shaft
I clean out the gunk with a can of brake clean and my wife's toothbrush.
I then lubricated the rubbed seals with silicone grease and put the new shaft assembly back in.
I covered the internal machined parts and coated the gearbox with some spray galvanizing I had. I put the screws back in after treating them with anti-seize and put the gearbox back on. I placed the gearbox on it's side and topped it off with 2 ounces of gear lube. I then re-attached the motor to the mount and re-connected the rod going to the spraybars. However, after mounting I noticed an excessive amount of side to side play in the shaft assembly in comparison to the other motors, so I took the asembly back apart and shimmed the internals with a stainless steel 1/2" washer. This took all the excess play out.
Cost was $80 for the kit and $20 for the quart of sythetic gear oil (of which I used two ounces). I could rebuild another one is about an hour. I ordered a repair kit from my Baldor rep and plan to have a rebuilt one ready to go. I could swap this gearbox assembly out with a rebuilt one faster than I could change the motor.
Time will tell if this was a smart use of time and money. I got four years out of the $400 oscillating motor. I figure if I get two more years out of the oscillating motor, the rebuild was worth it. Less than a year and I would have just been better off to replace the entire assembly.
Hope this helps!
cleaning up mud
Member
gear box
I finally got mine apart today and only broke one screw off! Im going to get the kit put it back together with silicone and see if it works with just two screws.
I finally got mine apart today and only broke one screw off! Im going to get the kit put it back together with silicone and see if it works with just two screws.
cleaning up mud
Member
gears
I ordered today and it will be two weeks, they have to machine them as they are not in stock. $75 for all plus shipping. Baldor Dealer in Austin Tx.
I ordered today and it will be two weeks, they have to machine them as they are not in stock. $75 for all plus shipping. Baldor Dealer in Austin Tx.
cleaning up mud
Member
That number worked for me, I faxed them the drawings, they ordered them from baldor and said they were going to have to be built/machined it would be 2 weeks.
cleaning up mud
Member
Just got off the phone with the baldor dealer and its going to be three weeks to get the gears!
cleaning up mud
Member
Call Brian at Bohls Bearings in Austin Texas 512 389 5005 I faxed him the drawings and he ordered it. It is still a 3 week out order because they have to manufacture them.. He's very helpful!!!!!!!
cleaning up mud
Member
I still have a 3 week time frame, maybe your better off afterall! Mine is just a spare! Its cold in Texas, High of 41 today!
A couple things I've learned. Baldor or any manufacturer will sell the identical part under different part numbers to different OEMS. When you call in and give them the number they tell you to go to the OEMS. This is I suppose part of the original deal when they supplied the parts. If you can figure out through dimensions etc what it is and call back with the normal part number they may sell the identical thing themselves or you may be able to get an off brand equal. Occasionally it's actually different but even then it's a minor difference that a machine shop can change. There aren't very many truly custom parts because they cost more in the original build.
Warrior Wash
Member
Car Wash Supply in Houston, TX has the motor and gearbox for $349.
