Lovejoy Coupling

[Buzzie8]

I replaced the Lovejoy coupling insert (just the urethane piece) back in November 2009 and noticed that it is already gone. I know that alignment is critical but can only use a visual to align. Anybody have any luck with this.

Also, I lost a bearing and a wheel on my other automatic, after replacing the wheel and both bearings the controller still gives me overload errors so I am assuming my gearbox is bad because it was overworked when the wheel and bearing seized. I ordered a gear box and it is on it's way. Has anyone ever had this happen? My preventative maintenance has been pretty good but truthfully I have not lubed every month.

 

[dclark3344]

Hey Buz
I have learned that you have to replace all 4 drive wheels at the same time. They do not wear evenly and you will have problems with the gantry twisting, putting a load on one gearbox/motor. I lift my gantry up when replacing the inserts to help me align the gearbox and drive wheel. You also must make sure that the replacement bearings are exactly the same measurements. I found there are different shaft heights for the same size bearings (this caused premature failure of the inserts). These are all lessons I learned the hard way.

 

[Buzzie8]

You have to be kidding me!!!! All four wheels at $250+ each. There was no mention of this from my distributor when I ordered the wheel. I am guessing you tried replacing one and the shimmees started. This seems crazy. The wheel and the bearings were drop shipped from JCC so I am assuming the bearings will be correct. They look exactly the same.

 

[Warrior Wash]

I also found out the hard way. Yes, you do have to replace at least the drive wheels at the same time. Al at Coleman told me the idler wheels aren't quite as important, but when you replace one drive wheel, you have to replace the other as well. After replacing one drive wheel, my gantry was twisting enough to raise it up and the home prox was not sensing and the gantry was slamming into the end or the rail stop. How do you guys lift your gantry??? I block the gantry so it can't roll and get a couple buddies w/strong backs and a pry bar. Not the best, but I have good friends.

 

[Reds]

I used a 5' long pry bar being carefull to pry on the gantry frame. I put shims under the gantry and heel of the pry bar as I kept raising it up enough to do the job. I was able to do it myself. The shims I used were the ones that JCC sends to shim up the track when installing the WW. The dist. left me a stack of them. I only replaced the bearings on one wheel, not the wheels. I was able to find 2 of the bearings brand new (not just the insert) on Ebay (same manufacturer - Dodge - same exact part number) for $35 total.

 

[dclark3344]

To lift my gantry, I turn off power, bring in my tractor with a front bucket, lay 4x4s across the bucket and up she goes.
If you do not replace the idler rollers they still can rock and miss the end of track prox. (experience)
I kept my old rollers and am having a machine shop turn them for me.
I purchased stainless steel bearing for my drive wheels to reduce my maintenance.

 

[Buzzie8]

Where did you buy the stainless steel bearings? I am assuming they do not need lubed as often when you refer to reducing maintenance.