Leak in Spray Arch Manifold / Horn

[bandali]

On one of my LW4000 I have a leak in the spray arch manifold, where the side and top spray arms meet. I notice on the PDQ Parts list that there's an O-Ring kit and ball bearings that goes in the manifold.

Additionally, the side arm has a lot of swing compared to my other bay, and on the HP cycles the side arm kicks back quite a bit.

My questions:
- is the leak fixed by a o-ring repair kit ?
- should I replace the entire manifold
- should I replace the side arm (possibly bent due to this ?)

I replaced the shear bolt just to be on the safe side.

Also, the horn (to stop car and for backing up) stopped working. Is this a wiring issue? Where is the horn located anyway?

 

[Mike]

The O-Ring kit for the laserwash 400o is PDQ part number kit007 and retails for about $5-$6 bucks.

The Ball bearings for the arch are PDQ part number 11825 and about $1 each. (4 needed)

You can tighten up the swing by tightening the large nut on the back side of the arch that applys pressure to the large black rubber bumper.
(there are 2, one acts as a jam nut)

you can also check the tension on the side arch nut,(forward and rev movement) make sure it is tight. Even with it tight you still should have enough movement in the arch to allow it to move.(with shear bolt removed)

I would spend an hour and a few dollars on a rebuild kit before ordering any new arches.

Make sure you torque the shear bolt to to 20 ft lbs

I have seen the side arch bend over time,(back towards exit when machine is at home) I have taken the arch and put in in a vice and bent it back to the factory angles to save on costs of parts.

The VT loading buzzer is probally failed, it should be located on the VT box on the bay wall but might be anywhere depending on how your distributor installed it.

If you have any further questions please feel free to call me or any one in our tech support group.

 

[madscientist]

You probably don't need to change the ball bearings, but you should get a seal kit and change all of the seals if you haven't done it in a a while. If that doesn't fix the leak (or before changing the seals), completely remove the side arch. You'll notice that it actually slides on the end of the top arch. After several years in service this part of the top arch will develop a crack, which will cause a leak which looks the same as a leak caused by old seals. If this is the case, you must replace the TOP ARCH, not the side arch. If there is a crack in the top arch, no matter how small, I would replace it sooner than later. You don't want that side arch falling off and landing on a car.