What's new

Hot water heater?

2Biz

Thread Killer!
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
2,641
Reaction score
300
Points
83
Location
Ohio
I would keep the solenoids on the air lines to the flojets...They are basically a fail safe in case a chemical solenoid fails open and drains a bucket of chemicals when you're not there! I use relays instead of a multiplexer to control the air solenoids...



 
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
40
Reaction score
6
Points
8
I would keep the solenoids on the air lines to the flojets...They are basically a fail safe in case a chemical solenoid fails open and drains a bucket of chemicals when you're not there! I use relays instead of a multiplexer to control the air solenoids...



I'm going to use relays also, just saying multiplexer to explain what I meant without confusion. Thanks tho.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
40
Reaction score
6
Points
8
So my previous stand used Zero pressure regulators for hp soap and wax injection and solenoid valves for hot and cold water. My new stand used a stock tank for pump supply water and just sucked the soap in. I want to keep hw for soap and wax, and possibly even a adding hp hw option. I have yet to grab my ro system and figure out how the presoak works but will there be any issues running thease Zero pressure regulators on my new stand with pressure inlets? How dose spot free rinse and presoak normally work. Is it hp or is that what the extra pump is for?
 

Attachments

2Biz

Thread Killer!
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
2,641
Reaction score
300
Points
83
Location
Ohio
I don't know if this helps, but it is how I have my pumpstand plumbed....Hot and Cold gravity tanks feed "Erie" 2 way motorized valves with 1/2" poly hose to each pump. I use heated water for soap and wax, easy to wire....Heated water plumbed to the NO inlet of the valves so if they fail, they fail NO (spring loaded return) . For me, the benefit of using the Erie Motorized valves, IF a valve fails, there is no way for them to starve your pumps....BTW, all my Erie valves are about 10 years old and still working fine. Basically a spinoff from the OEM but simplified greatly! I built a spare assembly for Drop in when I redesigned the original Mark VII stand....Haven't needed it so far! The 1/4" Wye is for soap and wax inlets. The 1/2" barb on the left is for pump bypass. The (2) Dwyer flow meters are for soap and wax so I can get all bays set up exactly the same and to help with trouble shooting.

Using 1/2" poly hose gives just enough vacuum to where you don't have to "Choke" water flow to the pumps for soap and wax to draw into the pumps. IMHO (And CantBreak80"s) if you use TF, put the PS on the foam gun. Solves so many issues! (Better Flow and the amount of CV's needed which is none!) SFR is plumbed using nylon hose to above each bay, CV needed at the manifold above the bay. My SFR uses a booster pump regulated to 150psi...

So far, the KISS method works for me. It is rare that I have to work on the pumpstand and it is modified now to where I CAN work on it if needed. The OLD OEM Mark VII was and would have been a nightmare to work on!





 
Last edited:

cantbreak80

Maybe I need new clubs
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
1,043
Reaction score
443
Points
83
Location
CO
That era of Hydrospay equipment utilized the booster pump for circulating heated pre-soak to the roof-top plumbing trough. Each bay’s PS solenoid was teed in the circulating loop, above the bay. The concept is to use the heated PS to keep the trough warm. It’s a pain-in-the-neck to maintain/service the solenoids & CHECK VALVES.

Similar to 2Biz's, our installations feature FloJet pumps for all low-pressure products (PS, Tire, Bug Juice, MagChloride, Tri-foam) all delivered thru a foam gun. NO CHECK VALVES living in the roof trough!

For simplicity, we provide warm water only to the HP pumps…yes, warm soap, wax, and rinse. Everything is gravity fed with 1/2" hoses to the pump inlets. NO CHECK VALVES, Zero Pressure Regulators, throttling valves, or solenoid valves required! One water tank, one soap tank, and one wax tank.

For SFR, I’m a firm believer in medium pressure delivery…400-500psi. This is accomplished with a high-volume Cat 390/5hp motor. Or, by using the existing HP pumps equipped with HP bypass solenoid valves and regulators. Both systems use the existing HP plumbing to the bays. (the latter requires NO CHECK VALVES!)

Here’s a view of our typical pump plumbing…simple and easy to service!
IMG_1294.jpg

Here’s a look at the same pump equipped with dual pressure controls for 400-500psi SFR delivery. This modification replaced a wimpy multi-stage repressurization pump system that customers rarely used.
IMG_2037.jpg
 

2Biz

Thread Killer!
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
2,641
Reaction score
300
Points
83
Location
Ohio
Sooo many ways to skin a cat! First time I've ever heard of using circulated PS to heat the trough! I can only imagine the problems that created!
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
40
Reaction score
6
Points
8
That era of Hydrospay equipment utilized the booster pump for circulating heated pre-soak to the roof-top plumbing trough. Each bay’s PS solenoid was teed in the circulating loop, above the bay. The concept is to use the heated PS to keep the trough warm. It’s a pain-in-the-neck to maintain/service the solenoids & CHECK VALVES.

Similar to 2Biz's, our installations feature FloJet pumps for all low-pressure products (PS, Tire, Bug Juice, MagChloride, Tri-foam) all delivered thru a foam gun. NO CHECK VALVES living in the roof trough!

For simplicity, we provide warm water only to the HP pumps…yes, warm soap, wax, and rinse. Everything is gravity fed with 1/2" hoses to the pump inlets. NO CHECK VALVES, Zero Pressure Regulators, throttling valves, or solenoid valves required! One water tank, one soap tank, and one wax tank.

For SFR, I’m a firm believer in medium pressure delivery…400-500psi. This is accomplished with a high-volume Cat 390/5hp motor. Or, by using the existing HP pumps equipped with HP bypass solenoid valves and regulators. Both systems use the existing HP plumbing to the bays. (the latter requires NO CHECK VALVES!)

Here’s a view of our typical pump plumbing…simple and easy to service!
View attachment 9790

Here’s a look at the same pump equipped with dual pressure controls for 400-500psi SFR delivery. This modification replaced a wimpy multi-stage repressurization pump system that customers rarely used.
View attachment 9791
So you supply soap and wax straight to the pump? Or y into your water supply?
 

cantbreak80

Maybe I need new clubs
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
1,043
Reaction score
443
Points
83
Location
CO
Soap & wax are plumbed to the pump's left side inlet with a push-to-connect "Y" fitting.
 

Attachments

Greg Pack

Wash Weenie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
3,901
Reaction score
1,430
Points
113
Location
Hoover, Alabama
Coleman's systems are a single hot water storage tank with a 3/4" check valve and line feeding the pump. Teed into the pump feed line is a 1/2" solenoid that has pressurized water. There is a regulator on the rinse manifold to keep the inlet pressure down. I think I keep mine at 20 psi. When the rinse is selected the pressurized rinse manifold opens and "overrides" the hot water feed. No zero pressure regulator needed. The big disadvantage is the hot water tank cools off if you don't either recirculate it or use a cartridge heater. If you don't have either of these the firt customer of the day gets less than hot water.

I have a Carolina pride system that uses just a single tank, all HP functions are hot. It's surprisingly inexpensive to do all hot water. My gas bill is usually around $250 per month. I do run my water more warm than hot-probably 105-110.

Presoak and Spot Free are best to be run using their own pumps and plumbing and teed into the bay manifold at the boom. Some companies use valves and pump RO through the high pressure lines but there is a potentially longer delay than desired. Coleman does their presoak through high pressure lines and it's terrible, resulting in long changeover times and weak presoak that doesn't clean well.

Sooo many ways to skin a cat! First time I've ever heard of using circulated PS to heat the trough! I can only imagine the problems that created!

The carolina pride system has essentially that because they heat and circulate their presoak. It was set up to run continuously 24/7 but I put a MX-10 on it so it now only runs when a meter is running. I have a toggle switch where I can turn it on and will do it when we expect a hard freeze. I've had very few problems with it.
 

CWdummy

New member
Joined
Jun 4, 2023
Messages
16
Reaction score
4
Points
3
My wash had a large natural gas boiler with holding tank with recirculating pump when I purchased. I am in upstate SC and we only have about 20 nights a year it gets below freezing. After the first winter I eliminated that big boiler and the gas bill. The weep system works great. I have never missed the lack of hot water and the space it opened up is great.
 
Top