High pressure clear coat dri-aid application

[Buzzie8]

I realize that there has been a recent post lately about clear coat not breaking, but I thought I would start a new thread based on what I have been finding about my application of clear coat. I was having toruble with the break lately as well so I did a volumetric study. I found that I had only pulled 5 oz. of clear coat for 31 washes. I am trying shining armor from jobe based on the recommendations from the last thread. I am not sure what Jobe's recommendation is, but I know that this must be way too low. I was using what I thought was a 90:1 dilution rate (yellow tip). I have since found that the push in (Blendco type tips) are not at the same dilution rate as the larger dema screw in tips. So I was actually diluting at what I think was 32:1 and still only pulling 5 oz for 31 vehicles. I went to a beige (very light brown tip) and thought I was diluting at 8:1 but was actually diluting from the push in tips at 4:1. Once I switched I was now pulling 9 oz for 11 washes. I started to see a break. I am not sure if just under an ounce a vehicle is too much or too little. Still trying to fine tune. The additional dilution from the high pressure application makes this real difficult. I am using a Jim Coleman Water Wizard 1.0.

 

[rph9168]

Applying clear coat or dying agent with high pressure is tough and usually more expensive than under low pressure. Did you try nozzling down or plugging some of the fittings to reduce the flow? Make sure if you do that you fan the angle of the existing nozzles to maintain good coverage. I have seen some high pressure applications take up to 3 ounces to get a break which is way too costly.

Ultimately you should check with your distributor to see if you can add a low pressure arch to your system. I know this is easier to do with a gantry machine than an inverted L.

 

[Greg Pack]

Buzzie, as you know the HP CCP is not good on the wizards. I also run usually a beige-red tip on CCP products. Suction is usually enhanced by choking the ball valve off under the main water tank. You can do all this and get the proper strength, but in the end because the CCP travels through the HP plumbing it reaches the car once the gantry is half way through with the pass. As a result, I'm going to low pressure mod before I lose my motivation. I'm ordering the stuff today. It'll save money and be a better overall car-dry from one end to the other. The only other option is to use a triffoam that beads really well.