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Help with wiring wax in 8 position 2 stack rotary switch

area123

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We currently have all eight positions used after we had at the wax. But can't figure out how to get wax solenoid with cold water and the high-pressure pump. It seems like we need a three stack switch or a relay but the relay didn't seem to work. When the relay is activated it must backfeed power and to be so so annoyed as well.i'm sure that someone is done this before and can explain how we might do it. Thanks!
 

area123

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Ok is we that thread too but was still confused. I'll reply in that thread.
 

2Biz

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Why a three stack switch???? Maybe these wiring diagrams will help.

You have to make sure that wax is connected to a position on the rotary that is also connected to the motor contact like in the diagram...As in Position 24-14, 26-16, or 27-17...24, 26, and 27 is for the motor contactor...14, 16, and 17 is for soap, rinse, wax...Using the rotary in this manner keeps the outputs seperated...Keep in mind your rotary may be wired different. The diagram is only for reference to see how it all works....My guess is you added wax to a position that does not have a jumper wire like position 24, 26, or 27 for the motor starter...Positions 11 and 21 are your "Timed Hot" inputs....


http://www.bcoweb.com/photos/8+pos+dix.pdf
 
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area123

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2Biz,
Thanks for the diagram. This will not work in our system because we only have 1 cold water solenoid, it has to be shared for HP wax and rinse cold water. When we activate the cold water solenoid & wax solenoid, it back feeds into the 2nd stack and activates wax for rinse cycle as well. With a 3 stack we have an isolated stack to send power to the wax solenoid while the other 2 stacks activate motor and cold water separately. That way there is no back feeding through the cold water solenoid to the 2nd stack/wax solenoid.

what we could do with our current switch is either re-plumb it with a dole type solenoid so wax and cold can have separate solenoids (which is probably what your diagram assumes, but we can't tell because there is not info given beyond the block), or use a 3 stack switch or a dual pole relay. the 3 stack will work the best it is a little simpler & cheaper than adding a relay, much simpler than re-plumbing with a more expensive dole type dual solenoid.

Of course I'm new at this and still not completely sure of anything I am saying..
 

MEP001

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A 3-stack switch will work too, but a SPDT relay is under $10 and won't need a lot of rewiring.
 

2Biz

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Knowing you have separate hot and cold solenoids helps…Yea a double stack rotary won’t help you here. The cheapest route would be like Mep and others suggested using relay’s to isolate the wax solenoids.

There is one other alternative…Having individual hot and cold solenoids can cause you problems. If either solenoid fails, you starve a pump. Not good! You can solve both issues, wiring and plumbing, by installing Erie Valves in place of the hot/cold solenoids.

With an Erie Valve, you have a normally open valve that will always let water through. It can never starve a pump. Secondly, if you want cold rinse and wax, normally open would be cold (no input to the solenoid needed for rinse) and wax would simply open the wax solenoid. Energizing the Erie solenoid and Soap solenoid off the soap position on the rotary switches to Hot water and soap at the same time if this is what you want.

You can also plumb and wire the Erie in a way to give you hot soap and wax, cold rinse… Hot water is now normally open (no input needed for the Erie valve). Soap and wax solenoids are switched from the rotary for either soap and wax. No back-feeding. Rinse from the rotary switch energizes the Erie to switch from hot to cold. This is how I have my setup wired. I heat soap and wax. No relays needed to make it work and can never starve a pump due to solenoid failure.

But then IF the float valve fails! Well, let’s just say, “Sometimes you need to pick your poison!”
 
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