We installed a used laser 4000 about 3 years ago. We put up new white pebbled frp in before installing the lw4000. Now we are looking to upgrade to a new Razor to replace our aging machine. I need your opinions. We are considering installing extrutech as we do the reload. My thoughts there are that we should do it now because if we dont we will end up with holes in the frp when they install pieces in different spot (mainly conduit, sensors and junction boxes. I would also like to consider installing extrutech onto the ceiling of the IBA (it is painted wood joists). The bay is not big (25' x 16' x 12" approx). Any thoughts on this. I'm most interested in hearing from those that have faced a similar decision. If you care to share your costs of material and labor i would be interested in that too. Thanks!
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Extrutech in IBA
- Thread starter bert79
- Start date
Car_Wash_Guy
Well-known member
I have 2 sites a 4/2 and a tunnel. My 4/2 had them already installed and the tunnel was block and I installed the panels. Went faster than I thought it would and looks 100x better. I know from my 4/2 that its easy to clean and looks great when clean.
110' tunnel cost me $6K in panels shipped but the prices have gone up substantially.
110' tunnel cost me $6K in panels shipped but the prices have gone up substantially.
Car_Wash_Guy
Well-known member
I use the tap con like anchors that they supplied me. Used a cordless rotary hammer and impact driver to screw the wall.
Panels plus labor came out cheaper than the estimate I was getting to spray epoxy.
I think the stainless anchors are overkill .
Panels plus labor came out cheaper than the estimate I was getting to spray epoxy.
I think the stainless anchors are overkill .
OurTown
Well-known member
OurTown
Well-known member
I see that they also recommend those all nylon nail-in anchors for masonry. Has anyone used that method? We have used them for signs but sometimes the nail/pin breaks off before fully driving it in or if not careful the head cracks if you overdrive a tad. It seems that we had better luck with one brand but of course I can't remember what it was.
MEP001
Well-known member
If the nail is breaking off before it drives in, the hole is too small. Masonry bits aren't precise and different brands will cut a different size hole - they can even vary within a brand if the carbide tip isn't perfectly centered. Also the tip will wear down and the holes will be undersized.
OurTown
Well-known member
OurTown
Well-known member
I usually use the bit that comes with them.
I used a Ramset T3SS gas gun and a MO34BB pin to put up extrutech panels at my wash fifteen years ago. You have to do it when warm, the panels are brittle when they're cold and the little mounting strips will crack. No holes to drill. It was a huge time saver. You can put five pins in a panel in less than a minute. It was so convenient I installed the extructech by myself in an IBA bay a few panels at a time. I told the extrutech rep about it many years ago and they weren't really interested.
throw those away, use an actual masonry bit and root hammer
soonermajic
Well-known member
Greg, u do that directly into the concrete?
tdlconceptsllc
Well-known member
They make stainless Tapcon screws also if y'all worried about rust I have used them on bay signage.
OurTown
Well-known member
I recently found that out but it looks like they do not make the short 1 1/4" screws in stainless and the longer ones are not threaded all the way to the head.
OurTown
Well-known member
The ones that come with them are a straight shanked masonry bit. I also have both a Bosch SDS Plus and Bosch SDS Max rotary hammers. They are corded so if I'm just putting in a few holes I tend to use the 18v cordless hammer drill with the straight shank bit. I have had issues with the 3/16 screws breaking off many times when drilling the holes with the German made Bosch SDS Plus bits also. It has been a while since I was using a lot of 3/16" screws but I'm guessing now I would break off one in every 30-40 in concrete or even standard block. Many times it is difficult to put another in somewhere else after breaking one. These days I try to make my project conform around using the 1/4" screws with the hex drive heads and can't remember breaking any of those off.
MEP001
Well-known member
FWIW I've had issues with Bosch bits drilling undersized holes, even with 3/8" and 1/2". I buy good wedge anchors from a bolt supply (The Home Depot brand are great about spinning in the hole and never tightening up) and sometimes I can't get the anchor in the hole without a LOT of pounding.
tdlconceptsllc
Well-known member
Our town here you go would work perfect for panels I have used them screw all the way down tight. Confast is where I buy all my bolt from there service is superb.
3/16" x 1-1/4" Tapcon Flat Phillips 410 Stainless Steel Silver Climaseal® Coated SPF3-114, 100/Box
Top seller of the 3/16" x 1-1/4" 410 Stainless Steel Flat Phillips Tapcon will ship orders with free freight and delivery within 1 to 3 business days.
www.confast.com
OurTown
Well-known member
Our town here you go would work perfect for panels I have used them screw all the way down tight. Confast is where I buy all my bolt from there service is superb.
3/16" x 1-1/4" Tapcon Flat Phillips 410 Stainless Steel Silver Climaseal® Coated SPF3-114, 100/Box
Top seller of the 3/16" x 1-1/4" 410 Stainless Steel Flat Phillips Tapcon will ship orders with free freight and delivery within 1 to 3 business days.
I was just looking at the Tapcon brand and did not look at others. Fairly pricey but a good option for car washes. Have you snapped any?
