Dixmor led 7

[Bricks]

Hey there!
Have you guys had problems with these timers? Mine pretty much melted today. I don’t expect things to last forever, just wondering how common this is. Thanks

 

[washman81]

I have used LED7 for decades. Generally very reliable units. I had one unit melt down several years ago. I did not try to have it repaired. However, the Dixmor folks are very reasonable about repairing most items.

 

[Greg Pack]

Dixmors are solid timers. Never had one melt. Is your timed output fused somewhere?

 

[Bricks]

Dixmors are solid timers. Never had one melt. Is your timed output fused somewhere?

It was blowing a fuse I believe coming from the transformer inside. The slug buster has been jamming up lately and the crypto tap failed on that one too. Maybe I should put a new slug buster in too? I replaced the switch because it had a lot of slop in it. I thought Maybe it was the cause. I’m new to all of this. This is the warmest day we’ve had and it’s right after a big snow. Everyone is wanting to wash the salt off. I only have two ss bays and one is down.

 

[STXCW]

Put a fuse in line with incoming power to the timer. You have a short somewhere, the fuse will save the timer when this happens.

 

[Bricks]

Put a fuse in line with incoming power to the timer. You have a short somewhere, the fuse will save the timer when this happens.

There is. It kept popping so I took a fuse from a “different “ box. Then went out and saw the timer so I assumed it was the cause.

 

[MEP001]

Dixmor will fix a melted timer. It will come back looking like new for maybe $75 tops. I've seen this happen quite a few times, usually for no apparent reason. The timer output is protected, so it will just shut off if the timed load is shorted, then reboot and shut off over and over.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Different issue - Keeps counting up with no $ or swipe. Had this happen once before. I think a wire was grounded or wet or something but forgot what. Anyone know?

 

[mac]

Mine do the same thing at times. Dixmose suggested swapping to another bay as the coin acceptor or crypto pay might cause it.

 

[Bricks]

Dixmor will fix a melted timer. It will come back looking like new for maybe $75 tops. I've seen this happen quite a few times, usually for no apparent reason. The timer output is protected, so it will just shut off if the timed load is shorted, then reboot and shut off over and over.

I took the screws out and bent the leaned over transistor the other way. It got hot and leaned over causing a short into the harness. Now I put it back in , and a new slug buster and it won’t turn on the pump. I checked for voltage at the white wire when the timer was counting and had nothing. I’m assuming the white with black is the input and the white should have 24 volts when the timer is running. Can anyone confirm this? I didn’t want to check the other bay as it’s the only one open.

 

[cantbreak80]

White wire is the load or timed output.
No 24v probably means the triac has failed.

 

[Twodose]

You should have a spare one around, looks like your going to need it anyway, for the cost of one led7 you could easily loose that much business in one day. Most of us keep allot of spare parts around, especially a main part like that, that can shut the bay down.

 

[Bricks]

You should have a spare one around, looks like your going to need it anyway, for the cost of one led7 you could easily loose that much business in one day. Most of us keep allot of spare parts around, especially a main part like that, that can shut the bay down.

I have two on the way. I hope that it is the problem. I jumpered the 24v and output to see if everything worked, and it did.
Months ago I had problems with the slug buster door popping open (thank you Randy) he hooked me up with screws. Anyway, when the door would pop open and coins weren’t being registered, people would beat on the timer so hard it broke the ears off of it . I showed up and thought a fuse blew. No, the timer was lying down in the box. So it’s been cable tied for months. Maybe that’s what started the melting, hopefully.
And you’re absolutely right about the loss of income yesterday. Silver lining, I saw someone waiting in line for the SS wash bay, after a few minutes they decided to get in line for the automatic. So hopefully, people that never used it, will use it regularly after trying it.

 

[MEP001]

I’m assuming the white with black is the input and the white should have 24 volts when the timer is running.

The red is hot in, the green is "common," the solid white is timed load, the white with black stripe is CC input. It's probably shot since it's melted, although I have seen timers melted so bad the harness was fused to it and it still worked.

If you have any other 24V timer, you can get the bay running, just not with a display.

 

[Bricks]

The red is hot in, the green is "common," the solid white is timed load, the white with black stripe is CC input. It's probably shot since it's melted, although I have seen timers melted so bad the harness was fused to it and it still worked.

If you have any other 24V timer, you can get the bay running, just not with a display.

I wish I did. It’s raining here now. Turning into ice and then snow. I’m supposed to have a new one today, still waiting. I thought about leaving the jumper in and putting a sign on it that says “have at it”. I hate seeing those cones.

 

[Randy]

I'd take a hard long look at the wiring, looking for anything that could be shorting the timer or drawing to many amps. A Dixmor LED-7 is only rated at 3 amps max. I find it odd that pin 8 is burned/melted, it's not being used. The problem could be in the equipment room, a bad coil on a solenoid valve or the coil on the motor contractor. Get a clamp on amp meter and check the amperage on the white wire. You might have to install a relay in the coin box to take the load off the timer.

 

[MEP001]

I find it odd that pin 8 is burned/melted, it's not being used.

That's where they always melt. Something inside goes bad or shorts, it doesn't appear to be related to load.

 

[Randy]

That's where they always melt. Something inside goes bad or shorts, it doesn't appear to be related to load.

The only time I’ve seen them melt is on pin 10 or pin 7. I once saw a guy take nail and put it in place of the fuse that kept blowing, the timer melted down to a red mass of hot stinky plastic, mostly around pin 10 in minutes

 

[Greg Pack]

Fuse the timed output with a cheap inline glass fuse and buy a couple packs of 3 amp fuses. Wash your car in that bay and the problem will probably reveal itself.

 

[Bricks]

Fuse the timed output with a cheap inline glass fuse and buy a couple packs of 3 amp fuses. Wash your car in that bay and the problem will probably reveal itself.

I did this exact method this morning and never popped the first fuse. Maybe it was just the timer. I sure wish one of them would get here. I might drive to get one tomorrow. Then I’ll have three. I’m losing a lot of money with that bay down. I let a few regulars use it with the jumper wire in it today. One place I ordered from (first ever order there) last Tuesday, said it would be shipped out that day and I would have it Wednesday. I kept asking “are you sure?” He said yep. I knew the storm was coming Wednesday evening. I gave them a call today and expressed my feelings about it. It didn’t ship out until Wednesday.