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If the pump runs but no water and likely the first thing you want to do is test the coil. Take a voltmeter put it on ohms or resistance to where it beeps. Whenever you touch the prongs together the red and black wire. Make sure it beeps when your two wires touch then put one on it each of the coil prongs. If you get a beep you got a good call. I'm talking about the deema. Val, that is what tells it to open and allow water into the pump. If you run it without water, you'll burn your pump up. Usually they weren 't very similar to broken pumps. There's also and that usually is covered by white plastic cover that has to be taken off solenoids that have corals. They're 120 volt corals and they're normally clothes. When they're energized they open and the water comes in out. If you got a bad coil and no water it's getting to that pro compound ly the problem course. You know you want to go ahead and feel it to at least half full so that the tank as a flow valve the top and the bottom. The one at the bottom is a shut off for to keep it from ruining the Palm system. One pump is to pump the water through the filtration system and then you have a delivery system pump. Usually one long nose you got to make the water before you can deliver the water. Of course, it's one of the guys said the system doesn't use solved well in a roundabout way it does. You're supposed to be sending soft and water into the system that is thin. Run through the 4 ft 4. Inx4, under high pressure you need to be making at least $150 PSI coming out of pump. The delivery pump that sends into the 4-ft long filter most the time I think you'll find if it's not working that that coil is no good. You replace it. Get the air out of the system. Make sure you're holding tanks, at least have full. You should start to make some water. However, the thing is over engineered if ever anything was I would love to see in owners manual with schematics If you do the voltmeter on test resistance test + it doesn't beep rather than just replacing the coil, I suggest replacing the entire solenoid You can buy one at clean right? For about 40 bucks a little bit less of course, if it's set for 2 or 3 years or even 2 or 3 weeks, you probably want to buy a new RO filter. There's a lot of places you're going to have to bleed air out on mine it's on a small stand. Just maybe 4 in off the ground but then the board is mounted high on the wall and the hose that leads up from the pro comp or similar to the inlet of the 4-ft long filter is maybe 10 ft off the ground. That's a lot of work for that little pump and little electric motor that I have to do..
Well in a roundabout way it uses salt. It's supposed to have softened water going into the system and the water softener systems. Nearly all backwash with salt salty brine water. So its in the loop
