MEP001
Well-known member
I would not have recommended that check valve, but I have seen it used and it doesn't seem to be a problem. It just has a pretty tight spring, but you may not have to throttle back the valve to force the pump to draw soap.
Chattering issue HP
- Thread starter KFPanda
- Start date
Glad you got it fixed. It looks like the hose is on plenty far enough with the clamp. Mep already mentioned it, but I was going to tell you that I noticed that check valve is going to take more vacuum pressure to pull it open! It has a little higher cracking pressure than the check valves that are on it. Well, you got some experience on it!
That’s the first thing I noticed in the picture!
That should help drawing soap!
I noticed that it took a good amount of force to open that valve. At least that one isn't cranked down so hard now, much quicker to get off and get to 3 and 5 now as well.
I also have some of those short check valves I think they are 0 cracking pressure, are those ok to use also?
MEP001
Well-known member
I use these:
www.kleen-ritecorp.com
They flow plenty for a bay pump, they have a weaker spring than the high pressure 3/4" you installed, but still gives enough drag where you shouldn't have to throttle the water supply. I've had no problems with failure since the spring and seal are 100% captive.
If the short ones you have are these, I wouldn't use them. They just don't hold up.
Kleen-Rite 944-430 | Brass Inline Check Valve | 1/2in. F x F
This resilient disc check valve is not lead free. It is not for use on potable applications.
They flow plenty for a bay pump, they have a weaker spring than the high pressure 3/4" you installed, but still gives enough drag where you shouldn't have to throttle the water supply. I've had no problems with failure since the spring and seal are 100% captive.
If the short ones you have are these, I wouldn't use them. They just don't hold up.
I use these:
Kleen-Rite 944-430 | Brass Inline Check Valve | 1/2in. F x F
This resilient disc check valve is not lead free. It is not for use on potable applications.
They flow plenty for a bay pump, they have a weaker spring than the high pressure 3/4" you installed, but still gives enough drag where you shouldn't have to throttle the water supply. I've had no problems with failure since the spring and seal are 100% captive.
If the short ones you have are these, I wouldn't use them. They just don't hold up.
The short ones I have are the ones you use. They were so much shorter I figured they were for something else. I wonder what prev owner was using these high pressure check valves for...
MEP001
Well-known member
My guess would be they ordered some for where you needed one and thought they were the right size. They do work perfectly by moving the reducing nipple from the bottom of the check valve to the top and adding a 1/2" nipple to the bottom. For future reference, the fitting with the hose on it unscrews from the flare fitting above it so you don't have to cut the hose.
Yeah, I didn't remove the hoses first and it was so tight I ended up to where I couldn't get in the right position to loosen it and just cut the hose out of frustration. Funny how I was finished and never wanted to do that again and now I'm thinking on swapping it haha. It does work so I should probably invest sweat equity elsewhere.
n00bie
Member
@MEP001
I have similar problem but a little different from KFPanda. As I turn to FOAM Brush back to RINSE, RINSE will not turn on (pump didn't turn on; no starving; water coming out @35psi) RINSE works when I switch to WAX then back to Rinse. Avoid switching to FOAM BRUSH, switching between other soaps is fine (RINSE and FOAM are next to each other). Is the rotary switch wiring went bad? I have replaced the bottom check valves. No tube leaks (haven't checked/replaced fitting for tube lines)
I have similar problem but a little different from KFPanda. As I turn to FOAM Brush back to RINSE, RINSE will not turn on (pump didn't turn on; no starving; water coming out @35psi) RINSE works when I switch to WAX then back to Rinse. Avoid switching to FOAM BRUSH, switching between other soaps is fine (RINSE and FOAM are next to each other). Is the rotary switch wiring went bad? I have replaced the bottom check valves. No tube leaks (haven't checked/replaced fitting for tube lines)
That does sounds similar to what my bay was doing that I replaced the rotary on. If going from wax to rinse worked reliably but foam brush to rinse didn't the switch is what it seems to point to.
Greg Pack
Wash Weenie
noobie yes check the rotary switch. Most rotary switches have two "stacks" . One stack with the most wires on it will control various LP functions. The other stack will have wires that correspond to turning on the high pressure pump, so it just has a few wires and they all connect together with one wire going back to the equipment room. Double check all connections there before you replace the switch
Greg Pack
Wash Weenie
KF Panda you can get those check valves at the big box hardware stores over by the well pump supplies.
MEP001
Well-known member
This is the best check valve to use on a Coleman unit. They have a very low failure rate, zero in my experience, and have just enough drag from the spring that you usually don't have to throttle the flow with the ball valve to force it to draw soap.
n00bie
Member
So it's not the rotary switch. I've been digging for the problem but no luck.
- replace 2 check valves under the pump
- replace 2 sus fittings
- open/clean soap solenoid
- open the pump head, look through seals they all look good (didn't changed new seals)
- change pump's oil (still see some air bubbles on top)
From the start it runs great for good 3, 4 minutes. As switching to other options, go back to rinse,Wax, soap pressure drops. Turn to low pressure, then back to high pressure the weeping build pressure, but drop pressure as I squeeze the trigger. Pump runs great without shaking or starving BUT the pump head gets hot quick (looks like overworked). One thing I know it's somewhere out there air gets into the pump because air bubbles coming out when I open pump head's plug. So frustrating. Should I go ahead replace new head seals?
- replace 2 check valves under the pump
- replace 2 sus fittings
- open/clean soap solenoid
- open the pump head, look through seals they all look good (didn't changed new seals)
- change pump's oil (still see some air bubbles on top)
From the start it runs great for good 3, 4 minutes. As switching to other options, go back to rinse,Wax, soap pressure drops. Turn to low pressure, then back to high pressure the weeping build pressure, but drop pressure as I squeeze the trigger. Pump runs great without shaking or starving BUT the pump head gets hot quick (looks like overworked). One thing I know it's somewhere out there air gets into the pump because air bubbles coming out when I open pump head's plug. So frustrating. Should I go ahead replace new head seals?
I have a bay just start to drop pressure on presoak only. Not bad enough to vibrate much but noticeable drop and only presoak, all other hp functions on the dial work fine. Can flip back and forth between soap and presoak and it's about as instant as the switch action.
Did you check/replace supply lines to pump inlet?
n00bie
Member
Yeah. No check valve under the tank for soap,rise,Wax. But there are check valves underneath each pump and I replaced both
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n00bie
Member
