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Change CP2120 BElt

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Hello,
I had to change the belt on one of our CP2120. Last time I didn't loose the pump and kind of forced the new belt on the pulley. This time I loosened the pump, moved it backward a bit and it was much easier to remove the old belt and put the new one. But, how do I put enough tension on the belt? So I pushed the pump toward myself as much as I could and asked my assistant to fasten the screws. I think there should be a better way. Thanks
 

I.B. Washincars

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I usually get it as snug as possible by hand and tighten the pump down. I then roll the belt off and move the pump forward 1/8” or so and force the belt back on. If I’m not happy with the tension, I repeat the process. By forcing, I mean rolling the pulleys to get the belt on, not prying it on with a crow bar.
 

MEP001

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I use an adjuster mount under the motor, then you only have to loosen the motor bolts and tighten the bolt head on the back.

A long prybar works on a lot of pumps, the kind that's basically a three foot long screwdriver with a slight bend at the end. I'll use it to pry against the crankcase beside the pulley and put the blade against the bolt head which helps make it a one-person job since the prybar against the bolt head also keeps it from turning while I tighten it from the bottom with the other hand. Some stands are set up pretty well to use a claw hammer to hook under the manifold and the head against the front of the stand.

The worst tool I've used was a shovel handle. I was prying and it slipped of and I hit myself in the head with it with just about all my strength and weight. I still sometimes harf to blet thr gomdigl beldom.
 

MEP001

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see attached for V-belt tension
FWIW, I tighten them far tighter than that. Tightening a new belt I go to almost no deflection at all because they will wear and stretch and fairly soon will be too loose. You're supposed to set it then come back in a month or so and retighten it but no one does.
 
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I usually get it as snug as possible by hand and tighten the pump down. I then roll the belt off and move the pump forward 1/8” or so and force the belt back on. If I’m not happy with the tension, I repeat the process. By forcing, I mean rolling the pulleys to get the belt on, not prying it on with a crow bar.
Thanks, how do you "roll the belt off"? By a flat crew driver while turning the pulley? After moving the pump 1/8", don't you need to use a plyer to put the belt back on? I'm trying to find a way to not to use a plyer. What happens if the belt is not 100% under tension? I mean right now the pump works very well with the pressure I always have and no noise. Thanks
 

Randy

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Jeeez, get yourself a belt jack and be done with it.
 

br549ms

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Looks like it might work, never used one. But, I would probably loose it and wind up doing like MEP001 says. However, be careful and do not over tighten.
 

Damoni88

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I use an adjuster mount under the motor, then you only have to loosen the motor bolts and tighten the bolt head on the back.

A long prybar works on a lot of pumps, the kind that's basically a three foot long screwdriver with a slight bend at the end. I'll use it to pry against the crankcase beside the pulley and put the blade against the bolt head which helps make it a one-person job since the prybar against the bolt head also keeps it from turning while I tighten it from the bottom with the other hand. Some stands are set up pretty well to use a claw hammer to hook under the manifold and the head against the front of the stand.

The worst tool I've used was a shovel handle. I was prying and it slipped of and I hit myself in the head with it with just about all my strength and weight. I still sometimes harf to blet thr gomdigl beldom.
Same as mep so much easier
 

2Biz

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Jeeez, get yourself a belt jack and be done with it.
Or you could make one....But for $23.00 why waste your time. I wished I would have seen this before making one...I used 2 pieces of 1/2 plywood with a vee notch cut on one end of each piece to fit in the pulleys. Then bolted a turnbuckle in the middle...Works just as good, just not as pretty as the one Randy linked to! Works great! Perfect tension every time and allows you to put a straight edge on the pulley faces to align them while tightening bolts...
 

Keith Baker

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My pump and motor pulleys are only about 4" apart. I use a piece of 2 by 6 lumber, trim it to make a wedge and drive it in between them at a slight angle. When the pump is tight I tap the board back out.
Works for me.
 
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Some stands are set up pretty well to use a claw hammer to hook under the manifold and the head against the front of the stand.
Thanks this is exactly what I just did last night on my other pump, worked perfectly, although I still like to push the pump forward like 1/8" (left side is good, the right side only) , but it simply wont move forward. I did not put my whole weight on it, but I think I had enough force on the hammer.
 
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