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Cat 310 valve service

Stoked

New member
I am about to change the valves and seals in a cat 310 pump for the first time. I watched the cat videos and they say to use liquid gasket on the seals to install. I know that there used to be brush on gasket material that didn't harden but it's not available anymore so I was wondering what others use. The video doesn't mention a brand of "liquid gasket" so I'm just scratching my head here wondering what I should use.
 
I am about to change the valves and seals in a cat 310 pump for the first time. I watched the cat videos and they say to use liquid gasket on the seals to install. I know that there used to be brush on gasket material that didn't harden but it's not available anymore so I was wondering what others use. The video doesn't mention a brand of "liquid gasket" so I'm just scratching my head here wondering what I should use.
Fwiw, I've never used any gasket material for a seal replacement. Ever.
Valve replacement is easy and straightforward.
 
This is what they use in the videos. We use it every time, don't know if it makes a difference, but they recommend it, and it's peace of mind for me to lessen the chances of doing the same job twice. I follow those videos to the letter and have never had an issue.

 
I'll 2nd what Ed said. In 40 years I've never used any sealant on the seals or valves. I don't think I've ever replaced any valves. I buy the white "O" ring retainer and the "O" ring, clean the valves and replace the mentioned parts, sometimes you have to replace the valve cage. A couple of things you should look for when you break down the head. Break loose the 6 valve caps while the head is still installed, it;s easier to get them out. When you remove the brass low pressure seal retainer be careful to not damage them. You want to inspect the end of them that holds the high pressure seal in, you want them to be flat and not cupped. if they are cupped you should replace them. Prior to installing the seals and the valves look at the seal and valve bores for head washed out, it'll look like a cut across the setting surface of the seal sits in and the in the valve bore. If the head is washed out don't install a seal kit as it will only last about 20 minutes and will be ruined. There are a few places that will re-bore the head and install stainless steel inserts.
 
I use the hylomar gasket seal product on a 3535 rebuild just because I don't want to take any chances, but don't use it on small pumps. When I think of liquid gasket I think of a silicone type product that will eventually cure, but The hylomar product doesn't cure and harden. Since I bought it I've used it for a few other things like mating a gear box to a motor on the automatics.

Just looked at the tech bulletin and Cat does recommend it when pumping corrosive fluids (maybe some HP soaps) and RO water. When you think about it I wonder if this would help with pump washout in the small pumps.

In case anyone is interested: here is the tech bulletin
 
I'll 2nd what Ed said. In 40 years I've never used any sealant on the seals or valves. I don't think I've ever replaced any valves.
I think in my 50 years, I replaced one valve. That pump had a lot of use and a slight pulsation that I couldn't put my finger on. I finally noticed that the disc in one valve was pitted badly...don't know why. I replaced with a valve from a junk pump and all was well. Definitely replace the o-rings, but replacing valves is a waste of money IMO.
 
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