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Boiler being replaced-- what should I watch for?

S

Sequoia

AKA Duane H- 3 bay SS
My 1850's vintage floor heat boiler has finally given it up and it will be getting replaced.

I have a brand new replacement boiler already in the equipment room, and hardly any qualified installers in the area. Maybe none. The only truly qualified company I could find, who are 90 mins away, told me in person that "we don't usually deal with your kind of customer except during Summer months ....." So I don't even want to start a relationship based on that.

I will likely be working with a local plumber who has a little, but not much background with floor heat. I need to figure out what work tasks to include on a replacement boiler install checklist-- from reading the manual I know it needs a pump, flow switch, proper venting, and expansion tank. What else do I need to insist upon during the install? Thanks!
 
Sequoia said:
My 1850's vintage floor heat boiler has finally given it up and it will be getting replaced.

I have a brand new replacement boiler already in the equipment room, and hardly any qualified installers in the area. Maybe none. The only truly qualified company I could find, who are 90 mins away, told me in person that "we don't usually deal with your kind of customer except during Summer months ....." So I don't even want to start a relationship based on that.

I will likely be working with a local plumber who has a little, but not much background with floor heat. I need to figure out what work tasks to include on a replacement boiler install checklist-- from reading the manual I know it needs a pump, flow switch, proper venting, and expansion tank. What else do I need to insist upon during the install? Thanks!
Click to expand...

First you need to find out if you will need a boiler inspection from the state inspector... if he has never been there you are probably not on the list to be inspected each year, if you get inspections yearly you will have to have a licensed boiler co or person to install and get it inspected by the state.
by having the boiler co do it they will know what is required... if you get by with using the plumber one thing u need is a pressure reducing valve with a quick fill for keeping the system full.
Also install valves to control the flow in and out of boiler, and also a way to install glycol in the system
hopes this helps a little.
 
Sequoia,

Here we need 50-50 glycol or fluid protection to minus 40 so we do not have an inlet to maintain fluid because the risk of potential dilution is greater than the risk of potential low boiler water. Low water condition can be protected with pressure switch or a low water cut off along with the flow switch.

What brand of boiler did you go with?

MJ
 
Boiler

I bought a Lochinvar / Knight KBN150 several years ago. 119K BTU I think.

After encountering the installation company that would only dirty themselves at a car wash during Summer months, I wound up never installing it and just putting a cycle timer on my vintage boiler instead.

The old boiler was 350k btu, which was massive overkill. I plumbed in a cycle timer so that when the sensor called for floor heat it would cycle ON for 30 mins then OFF for 30 mins. This cut my propane bill in half-- while still keeping the slabs ice-free. I used a $100 cycle timer so it was a good deal, at least until the whole thing crapped out.

The boiler very old anyway, leaking a bit, and very rusty, but I think the 4 1/2 day power outage, plus wide power fluctuations before the outage, finally pushed it over the edge. Power issues also zapped my router and a few other things. It just didn't seem to be worth spending the $$ to fix the antique unit when I had a new one sitting right next to it.
 
Sequoia said:
I bought a Lochinvar / Knight KBN150 several years ago. 119K BTU I think.

After encountering the installation company that would only dirty themselves at a car wash during Summer months, I wound up never installing it and just putting a cycle timer on my vintage boiler instead.

The old boiler was 350k btu, which was massive overkill. I plumbed in a cycle timer so that when the sensor called for floor heat it would cycle ON for 30 mins then OFF for 30 mins. This cut my propane bill in half-- while still keeping the slabs ice-free. I used a $100 cycle timer so it was a good deal, at least until the whole thing crapped out.

The boiler very old anyway, leaking a bit, and very rusty, but I think the 4 1/2 day power outage, plus wide power fluctuations before the outage, finally pushed it over the edge. Power issues also zapped my router and a few other things. It just didn't seem to be worth spending the $$ to fix the antique unit when I had a new one sitting right next to it.
Click to expand...

I dont know what state you are in but in Ky the boiler or water heater over 199k btu is considered a boiler and must meet the boiler code with very strick regulations on boiler feed water.
Anything under 199k btu is considered a water heater and is under the regulation of the plumbing code which is not nearly as strick on the install.
 
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