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Arch Rotate happens every 2 weeks now.

MDrost1

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I still have arch rotate fail issues. Every 2 weeks approximately. Can this be cause by debris or other external issues? Mechanically everything works well, then it happens. Different washes, different cycles.

I reset the machine after the error and all is well. I would like to know what else it could be. I replaced the compression bumper, manifold weldement, x15,16,17 seem to work well. Could ice build up somewhere have to do with it?

Just looking for ideas outside of the troubleshooting manual etc...
 

madscientist

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Can you please give a little more detail about the failures? Where are they occurring? Which cycles? What exactly is happening when the failures occur?
 

MDrost1

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Sure.

The arch ends up in the home position jammed against the pass. side t bar. Always. I keep the LW greased every 2 weeks at most, and make sure air is at 26lbs.

Here are the last three fail messages:

Mode- HP Polysealant State-Arch Home Cycle - 7

Mode- Low Press Soap State-Arch Home Cycle - 3 Reason - Arch Rotate Fail

Mode- HP Polysealant State-Arch Home Cycle - 7 Reason - Arch Rotate Fail
 

madscientist

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Sounds like the trolley is intermittently travelling too far to the right when it is at the rear of the vehicle. This would not be an arch rotate problem, but more likely a measurement problem. The arch rotate failure is just the result. I would start with the x30 prox switch. Is it scuffed up, or misaligned?
 

MichaelGlenn

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I have had this exact issue for a while. Very frustrating since it seems there are many factors at play with the 30 measure. I'm very new to the business so i'm learning as I go. So far i've checked all my 30 eye wires connections in the junction boxes all the way back to the J0. New 30 wire on the trolley and 30 eye replaced. I've finally had SOME relief by replacing an older relay in the J0 cabinet which is part of the ultrasonics. See attached photo. I have the older blue ultrasonics. Not sure this is the total solution but for me it's made a big difference in the width measure ever since I replaced this relay. Hope this is helpful to you.




 

MDrost1

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Interesting. I just had the error. It bugs me that I have 500 washes then one rotate fail. The customer is awol as well. I hope they call.

Any way, I have had my tech replace one of those relays before. Any idea what they do??? I have two in my J0. I actually have two new ones in my spare parts box. What would happen if I swapped them? Any advice on the install. Power down and swap?

I just replaced my direct line from the x30 to the J0 as well. My tech checked all prox switches. He said they all seem good.
 

pgrzes

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I had a similiar problem on my High Velocity. It turned out to be one of the wires in the trolley box where it was going into the push connector was all corroded. I found it by accident, I kept rotating the arch to get each prox lit, then just started jigglng and shaking things and watched for prox to flicker. I now use dielectric grease loaded into all the connector joints and into the plug sockets.
 

GoBuckeyes

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MDrost, I too have recently been having arch rotate fail errors. My arch is always jammed against the passenger side t-bar as well, although the majority of my faults have happened under high pressure. Talking it through with my distributor, he also had me change that relay MichaelGlenn pictured, although it didn't fix my problem. That relay apparently hides the driver side picket fence inputs for the VT. Depending on your VT board version, you'll have one or two relays. I have one LW with one relay, the other has two relays. They can be swapped out without powering anything down. I think the most likely culprit would be the picket fence prox (sorry, haven't learned all the sensor names yet). I am assuming that when the car is loaded, your sonars are measuring the passenger side of the car correctly and the arch is the correct distance from the car at least for one pass. If not, then it could be a VT board issue. Anyway, I replaced my picket fence prox and also brought it in a bit closer to the flags and so far I haven't had another fault. I also notice the arch going wide way less often. If I do have another issue, my tech suggested I check the black bridge rollers for wear as they are the ones responsible for keeping the trolley in the correct alignment in the bridge (distance from the flags). That's all I can suggest. Good luck as the tech says this is a hard one to nail down sometimes.
 

MDrost1

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Thanks for all of the help. I ended up speaking with PDQ and they suggested I swap the RY33 relay, same As above. So far, so good. A lot of cars going through. No issues. Thanks!!!!
 

Izzie4

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Laser 4000 arch rotation

Thanks for all of the help. I ended up speaking with PDQ and they suggested I swap the RY33 relay, same As above. So far, so good. A lot of cars going through. No issues. Thanks!!!!
I have several issues with arch rotation mainly prematurely, but I have had this when the bridge is home trifoam applied ready for HP Polycoat rinse arch rotates to 0 position and over rotates to t-bar post stopping it. My tech and I replaced arch gearbox and seems to have solved problem, as I have seen this problem several a week for the month of March LETS HOPE gear box was changed 12 MARCH
 

MDrost1

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A little follow up. I had another rotate fail this morning. Air in tires 26lbs. yesterday. New sheer pin 2 weeks ago. Greased a week ago. New x30, cable etc. 3 weeks ago. New RY33 relay a month ago.

We usually have 20 differential in temp from day to night these days. Could temp affect this? I'd really like to know what's up. My other fails happened when we had a temp drop to 20 degrees...usually happens in the morning within the first 10 washes or so.

Thoughts??? Thanks!
 

BBE

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What's the status of your arch gearbox? How old is it? When was the last time the oil was changed, etc..?
 

BBE

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Hmm..do you have cameras, or have you seen it happen? How wobbly is your arch when it rotates? I've seen mine on numerous occasions run into a mirror or trailer hitch, and rather than give an impact error and reset itself, or try again at a longer distance it will give an arch rotate fail. An arch rotate fail happens when one of the 3 prox switches on the cam is either on when it shouldn't be, or off when it should be on. In my instance the jarring movement caused by running into something moves things just enough up top to cause one of the other switches to get close enough to the cam to come on, or it pulls the cam just a bit away from the prox switch causing it to turn off when it should be on.

I see you've changed a lot of different things. Have you ever went through and either changed or inspected all 3 prox switches on the cam and the prox switch cables that go along with them, and made sure they were all properly adjusted? I'm not sure if it's the same on a laserwash 4000, but on a washworld with an arch rotate fail you will get an error code that identifies exactly which prox switch was either on when it shouldn't have been, or off when it should have been on. You can then hone in on the specific one from there. If you pin point the correct switch that is causing the problem and then change it and the cable, and are still having problems, I'd look at the festoon wire that corresponds to that prox switch.
 

MDrost1

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BBE,

Thanks for your time. No cameras yet. To answer your questions:

1) The arch is a bit more wobbly than I like it.
2) Woltco, my tech co., was out on 3-28-2014. After the last fail. All prox switches were checked and ok'ed, x30 replaced. The picket fences ok and flags adjusted.
3) The LW4000 doesn't tell me the exact switch.

That's all I know. This thing confounds me. It is the only error I get and no one can give me a workable solution. THANKS!
 

Waxman

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many of the intermittent errors i have had have been a bad wire. i run a superior side trac. if you can read led's that correspond to your inputs that are requiresd at the exact time of error you may be able to tell where youare not receiving a proper input.
 

BBE

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Yep, like waxman said. Next time it happens, leave the arch exactly where it was when you found it, don't move it. First do a visual, look up at the cam and look at the orange lights on the prox switches and look for the obvious, whether one of them is on when it should be off, or vice versa. If all looks ok, then open up the cabinet, and look for the 3 inputs led's for those 3 prox switches and see which one is off when it should be on or on when it should be off. That will narrow down your problem switch.
 

pgrzes

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I would add to that, open your trolley box and jiggle all the connections where your prox wires tie to the festoon or the connectors!! I had same problem it was the prox wire going into the connection block. Drove me nuts for weeks. Also make sure no rust or failing paint on cam. I changed mine to a stainless.
 
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