I have been at this a long time but have been having some issues with the above. First how does everyone heat their troughs. I use the floor heat but last winter was BRUTAL (15 to 20 below at times) and I found myself closed for 10 days or so in January and a few more days throughout the winter. I wanted to turn the floor heat down naturally but was afraid to because of the troughs. I know a separate water heater can be used to circulate in the troughs but I just wanted some other ideas. Second, for the last couple years I have had all kinds of problems with both of my SS weeps. They fluctuate so much that I have to check them a couple times a week. I have changed everything, needle valves to ball valves, new check valves, tried regulators etc. etc. Still has the same issue. The city pressure is pretty steady. The only way I get thru is CRANK them way up. I never used to have to touch them in the fall, just test the solenoids. Any ideas? Ball valves by the way are a big pain to adjust. I have the same problem at both our washes.
2 issues, weeps & trough heat
- Thread starter Bud
- Start date
Eric H
Well-known member
What weep guns are you using? I was having trouble with freeze ups for a couple of years then switched brands at one location and all of the troubles suddenly disappeared. I am now using https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1225-kleen-rite-weep-gun-with-blue-trigger.aspx
The way that the weep seats are made on different guns is not the same. some tend to collect a little bit of debris in the weep hole and reduce flow.
The way that the weep seats are made on different guns is not the same. some tend to collect a little bit of debris in the weep hole and reduce flow.
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
My suggestions:
1. Replace all of the spray tips prior to adjustment. Since water seeks the easiest path, the eroded tips from the busy bays will starve the lesser used bays for weep water.
2. Replace the ball valves with Globe valves. Ball valves are nearly impossible, while Globe valves are intended for use as "flow regulators".
3. Consider using Giant Pump's trigger guns...they're the most consistent (in my experience). Cat's guns are good, too.
1. Replace all of the spray tips prior to adjustment. Since water seeks the easiest path, the eroded tips from the busy bays will starve the lesser used bays for weep water.
2. Replace the ball valves with Globe valves. Ball valves are nearly impossible, while Globe valves are intended for use as "flow regulators".
3. Consider using Giant Pump's trigger guns...they're the most consistent (in my experience). Cat's guns are good, too.
We don’t have floor heat up here in the Pacific NW. To heat our troughs we use a self-limiting heat tape then insulate the trough well. When it gets real cold and there is no business we shut down the car washes. When we do that we remove the guns and foam brush handles, blow the lines down with air, then pump -20 windshield washer fluid into the systems, then blow it down again and reclaim the fluid to use it again. Last year we shut down twice, to much ice on the bay floors.
On our weep system we use an ASCO 8210-G34 ½” solenoid valve to control the weep water for all the bays, our incoming water pressure runs at a pretty constant 45 psi. Each bay and foam brush has its own 1/8” needle valve to adjust the flow and balance the system. I like to run each bay and foam brush at 20 oz. per minute with the weepmizer unplugged. I’ve found that that flow rate is about prefect for our application.
We’ve had problems in the past with the KR #GUK600W guns sticking wide open and flying out of the gun holder, damaged a few cars. We switched over the Suttner # SUT1500W Weep Gun and no more problems.
On our weep system we use an ASCO 8210-G34 ½” solenoid valve to control the weep water for all the bays, our incoming water pressure runs at a pretty constant 45 psi. Each bay and foam brush has its own 1/8” needle valve to adjust the flow and balance the system. I like to run each bay and foam brush at 20 oz. per minute with the weepmizer unplugged. I’ve found that that flow rate is about prefect for our application.
We’ve had problems in the past with the KR #GUK600W guns sticking wide open and flying out of the gun holder, damaged a few cars. We switched over the Suttner # SUT1500W Weep Gun and no more problems.
Eric H
Well-known member
The Giant guns are the ones I was having the freeze up problems with. Never had the gun sticking open issue that Randy mentioned. I've been using the KR GUK600W guns for a few years now weeping 16oz/minute and have had very few freeze ups.
I also use the Sutner 1500 gun and rarely have a freeze-up. Weep is set to about 18-20 oz per minute. There is a loop from the floor heat boiler in the trough along with a single run of Raychem Winter Guard Heat tape. The heat tape heats to 120° keeping the trough toasty. Its nice to have the flexibility between the floor heat and heat tape. I think the key is to insulate the trough well, taking up all the dead air space in the trough with insulation. My troughs are made from 5" PVC in which I cut a 2" wide slot down the topside for easy access. I fill the trough completely with insulation wrapped in plastic. I also have temp sensors in the trough to let me know how well all the above is working. I think the only time a bay has froze is when a piece of rust or carbon breaks loose plugging a tip. Last winter it got to -16° and the rest of the winter was brutal. I only had one bay freeze all winter.
Thanks for all the input guys. I think I pretty much have the picture. I have been pretty busy lately but am placing an order tomorrow with KR and will get a couple of the KR guns to try. That is the one thing I did not think about. Again, thanks.
