12pos switch advice

[cleancars24]

Hello everyone,

Im in the process of building my custom meterbox faceplates. I have decided I will provide 12 functions via rotary switch. Im stuck on which 12pos switch to get from Kleenrite. They offer the older 4 screw mount version with knob for $156 and then the absurdly priced "new" version with single hole mounting without a knob for $232. Im wondering if any of you have had experience with either knob and which version would you recommend? Im leaning towards the cheaper version as it would save me $100s buying all the switches I need, I just don't know if one is better than the other.

Thank you!

 

[edredtop]

Not real familiar with the style you want but questions I would ask myself;
* Do you really want/need a switch that has: pull to turn, spring return knob style and a solenoid lock?
* Is $76 bucks worth drilling 4 extra holes, with counter sinks in each of your face plates? (or welding studs on the back side)
* The bonus with this type of switch is the absolute pleasure of possibly drilling out a frozen or rusted fastener the next time you need to replace a switch.
* If you're going to place a full decal over the faceplate, it will have to be removed (or damaged) each time you need to change one out (unless you're going to weld threaded studs on the back side.)
Granted, the last two are hypotheticals and long-term potential problems but always seem to happen at the worst of times.

 

[cleancars24]

I was wondering about that pull to turn description. I asked Kleenrite about that functionality of the switch a month ago and have not received an answer.
I will be purchasing the expensive new style switch.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

I use the ST212, I've used them for around 20 years, I'm very happy with them. They last me 5-10 years before I need to replace them.

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I dont really understand most of Ed's comments:

IDK what the "pull to turn" thing is, there is no pulling involved... I also dont know what "spring return knob and solenoid lock is, maybe internal functionality. It works exactly the same as the old 8 position rotaries - and every other rotary switch - I used decades ago. Perhaps someone can enlighten me.

The 4 extra holes: Yes thats more work. I would do it, perhaps because I tend to overbuild things. Heres my logic - I do use the STK212 knob, specifically because it is bigger and longer, I've always thought that makes it a lot easier to grab and turn than those teeny tiny little 1950s knobs that require surgeon hands. (yes Im exaggerating a little, but I do have fat man hands, they are definitely easier to grab and turn). The st212 also takes a little more force to turn, and the longer/bigger knob gives a little more leverage to counteract that. So - I think the 4 mounting points makes it a little more stable, at least in my mind.

Drilling out a frozen or rusted fastener - not a problem I've encountered yet. Well sort of - the screw that hold the knob on does rust and shear off when I replace the knobs, but that's happened on every single rotary switch Ive ever used. When it does, I dont drill it out, I crazy glue the new knob on. When that one needs to be replaced I crush it off with a pair of channel locks, clean up the post with a dremel, and glue on the new one. Easy peasy.

I did in fact replace all my faceplate decals a few months ago. Yes I had to remove the knobs. One of the rotary switches was still good so I did not remove it, I just installed the new stickers with it in place. All the others I decided to replace the rotary switch, they were all 6-8 years old and starting to get that rotary switch wobbles (ie the internal mechanism gets loose, its no longer a clean crisp transition between functions.) FYI I dont weld studs on the back, I drill a hole, tap it, thread in a stud, weld it on the outside of the faceplate, grind it smooth. Work, yes, but not a lot of time and its a nice clean rock-solid install.