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Ryko softgloss no water

S

SuperClean

Member
I have no water coming on during the wash. I ordered a new synoind but its not coming until wed so i just want to make sure that it couldn't be anything else While i wait. Thanks
 
That is the wash water solenoid that's causing your problem, let me guess it's shutting down after the foam bath pass?
 
The one on the machine I think that is the only one that controls the main water for the wash. The rinse is fine its just not wetting down the brushes I believe its the 1 inch soleoid on the top of the machine. I don't think I have any on the wall. I hope that the problem is that simple I don't know of a safe way to test the wire to make sure it is getting power without riding the machine.
 
Superclean, do you have a plate bolted on the wall usually on the right side of the soft gloss with solenoid valves on it? that is where all incoming water/rinse/R.O and air goto then are routed through the boom into the top of the softgloss. The fresh water incoming is the wash water. The only one solenoid on top of the machine is for the rinse.

 
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On the Softgloss, the PLC output that controls the main wash water valve should be Y30. You will have a wire that runs from there to the coil of the V30 main wash water valve. Are you getting 24VAC to the coil of the valve? if not, check the PLC output and associated wiring. If you are getting voltage to the coil, most likely either a water supply issue or a bad valve. On older Softgloss units, the main wash water valve was found at the top center of the machine just where the boom hoses come into the machine. On newer units, the same valve is now mounted in the valve panel which would be off board.
 
I have 2 on top of the machine (no reclaim only fresh water) a 1 inch and a 3/4. I replace the 1 inch for the main water but still no water im wondering if there is a way to test is without the machine running to make sure the wire is good that runs from the plc up to the solenoid. Im heading over in a bit to work it out and I know you guys are a bit smarter then me. Thanks
 
SuperClean said:
I have 2 on top of the machine (no reclaim only fresh water) a 1 inch and a 3/4. I replace the 1 inch for the main water but still no water im wondering if there is a way to test is without the machine running to make sure the wire is good that runs from the plc up to the solenoid. Im heading over in a bit to work it out and I know you guys are a bit smarter then me. Thanks
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I would say it's either a bad output on the PLC, or problem with the wiring. This is only assuming that there is water pressure to the valve. When you changed the valve did you do the valve and coil? Is it a 24volt coil? There is a brush wet down option F8, that will start the brushes spinning and activate the wash water. I believe you have to press the test function on, off, on to activate the Brush wet down..
 
The 1" valve is the main water valve. It has two wires going to it. One will be 24V, and the other will be common (wire 25). The hot one comes from the wire connected to PLC output Y30. Because you don't want to energize the valve with the electrical cabinet door open, I would recommend you run a cable outside the cabinet. Disconnect the wire going to Y30, and connect to one side of the cable. Other wire connect to wire 26 which is always 24VAC if the estop is pulled out. Close the cabinet and touch the wires in the cable together. This way, you and the cabinet wont get wet. If that does not work, put that wire back on Y30, and find the next place that wire juunctions. Work your way back to the valve. If you want to shortcut, just try using wires 26 and 25 on the coil to see it it actuates and you get water.
 
nascar8814 said:
I would say it's either a bad output on the PLC, or problem with the wiring. This is only assuming that there is water pressure to the valve. When you changed the valve did you do the valve and coil? Is it a 24volt coil? There is a brush wet down option F8, that will start the brushes spinning and activate the wash water. I believe you have to press the test function on, off, on to activate the Brush wet down..
Click to expand...

You can use the wet down test, but again, hard to check output voltage at the PLC with the door open and brushes spinning. If you have a hand held programming console, you could disconnect the wire at Y30, force on the PLC output to make sure that PLC output is still putting out 24V.
 
Why don’t you do yourself a favor and call a service technician to come in and fix your machine, because it pretty obvious that you don’t know what you’re doing. Look at it this way, you make money with this piece of equipment if it’s not working you’re not making money. Now with said how much money do think you’ve lost by not having this equipment up and running. I’m sorry if I’m being brash but I see it all the time, someone trying to save a dollar and it ends up costing hundreds.
 
Thats a great idea but hes on vacation untill the 12 and the closest one after him is a 8 hour drive from me so i dont think hes coming here. So i can get advice from some helpfull people that do know more then me or just wait another week untill he gets back and im sure he will not have any other calls after being away.
 
Thanks for that F8 tip mine says senser test i never knew what it was for but that did the trick i was able to test it and the new coil i got was no good so just slapped the old one on and it working thanks for the tips.
 
I had a similar problem, and changed the valve and coil. I had cut the wire near the old coil, and wire nutted the new one on. Still no water. On my machine, that cable goes into a 2x4 junction box. I had 24v there, but only 12v to the coil. The problem turned out to be the wire from the original coil. (It made no sense to me, as the wire doesn't move at all. It just lays there!) I put in a new wire from the juction box to the coil, and it has worked since!

Good luck
JPRB
 
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