Sta-Rite Booster Pump Blows Fuses

[Waxman]

I apply my IBA presoaks and foam polish w/a sta-rite booster pump at 125 psi.

I was blowing 20A slo-burn fuses once in awhile. Now they are blowing every few cars.

Why would a pump start frequently blowing fuses? TIA.

 

[bigleo48]

Waxman,

I have a similar problem and it was due to my motor contactors. One phase wasn't always connecting properly (damaged contacts) and so it would cause the other phase to overload and pop the breaker.

Hope this helps...Big

 

[Waxman]

Mine is Sta-Rite, Model # HP10C-02MS1. 3/4 hp. 115/230V. 11.56 amp.

Phase-1. 60 hz.

 

[Jeff_L]

As BigLeo said, contactor would be my first guess. Second would be the motor itself, how old is it? Use your amp meter to check each leg while it's running to see how much each one is drawing.

 

[Waxman]

4 years old. We plan to check the draw w/our meter.

Thanks!

 

[ken-pro]

Because this is a single phase motor the most likely problem is the starter plate / capacitor start circuit contained within the motor. The pump is likely drawing way too much power when it starts. You will likely find that the running amperage is fine.

 

[Dean Taylor]

Kevin hit it on the head.

Your start up current is probably spiking above 20 amps. This typically happens only when the pump starts. You might try a 25 amp fuse. If it holds, then it is in fact your start-up current. You can also check it as suggested with an amp meter.

Might consider cleaning or replacing your contactor and possibly replacing the start-up capicitor.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[bigleo48]

Waxman,

An amp clamp meter is a great tool to have and not that expensive. With all test equipment, you get what you pay for with regards to accuracy, but in the car wash environment, a $100 model would be able to tell you if you have a problem or not. You just clamp around the wire and read the current draw in amps.

Here's a website that seems to have the whole range. http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/clampmeter.htm

Big

 

[Waxman]

Thanks!

We tried w/my radioshack multimeter this am but couldn't figure it out. It does hold with a bigger fuse.

 

[bigleo48]

Thanks!

We tried w/my radioshack multimeter this am but couldn't figure it out. It does hold with a bigger fuse.

Waxman,

Most multimeters have a 10A Max option. So too low in this instance, but in other instances, you need to change the leads so it's using the 10amp plug-in and put both leads in serial (as opposed to parallel when you take a voltage measurement). BTW, they usually have a separate fuse for the 10A next to the 9VDC battery. If that's blown, you won't be able to measure anything.

Need to get that amp clamp and find out what's going on. What size fuse are you using now? My guess is that the new fuse will only last so long until the problem gets worst and you may cause more damage.

Big

 

[Waxman]

Called Sta Rite. They said it is likely the starter windings or main windings in motor itself. Their price was high so I ordered one from WW Grainger.

Thanks!

 

[bigleo48]

Waxman,

So you're sure it's the pump? Have you had electrical problems that would cause pump damage? Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds like you're changing it before you've clearly identified the fault. I would check voltage & amp draw at max pressure and make sure that the pump can make the specs listed and that it "sounds" ok (takes 2 minutes). Then I would try to find out why it happened so I didn't install a new pump just to damage it. You right...they are expensive

When you get the new pump, measure the coil resistance and cross-reference it with the one in service. Would be interesting to note.

Big

 

[Waxman]

Big

It is the motor I have decided to spare part, not the pump. It's a c-face motor, 3/4 hp, 1 phaze etc.

Sta Rite has tech support and I talked it over with them before I chose to order one.

I asked about the returns policy if I am wrong (and they are wrong) in the diagnosis of this problem. It allows me wiggle room.

I have been burned this Winter in a rookie sort of way in not having ample spare parts or improper spare parts for my troubles.

The $280 (delivered) for this motor is to me cheap insurance and some peace of mind that I very much need right now.

 

[Waxman]

Threaded motor shaft~how to couple to pump?

Tomorrow we'll be replacing the motor for my IBA's Sta- Rite boost pump.

Today we started looking at it to determine steps for removal/replacement.

I expected a spline on the motor shaft but instead found threads.

My original plan was to leave the pump in place and tear the motor off and replace. However, the threads have me wondering if I will need to un-plumb the pump and do the motor removal etc. on the work bench.

Anyone have experience in this area?

Thanks!

 

[ken-pro]

Is this an impeller booster pump? (Pump itself is a long stainless steel cylinder). If so, then given the age you probably should just replace the whole pump. At 4 years old, and being disassembled you should be looking at replacing the impeller stack. I'm pretty sure if you add the price of the stack, mechanical seal, and the motor your are at or beyond the cost of a whole new pump. This style of pump can be tricky to rebuild given the number of pieces in the impeller stack. This is just my experience though.

No matter what, you will have to remove the whole motor pump assembly from the machine, and get it to a work bench to disassemble.

 

[soapy]

Call Dan at Dultmeier and he can get you a replacement pump and motor. Give him the #s off the one you have and he can match it for you. I would also replace the whole thing and not just the motor in this situation. Somewhere in your town or close to it there should be a motor repair shop that could fix your motor or sell you a new one much cheaper than $280.

 

[Wally]

You can use the Grainger #2P019. I put one on a Laser last week. $450 total.

 

[Waxman]

Head Scratch Fix

Well.........

Tore pump and motor out of pump stand today.

Replacement motor was wrong part.

Took existing motor to a electric motor repair shop and it bench tested fine. Put strain on shaft, still fine etc. Checked amp draw at startup and run modes. Fine w/in factory specs.

Reassembled w/pump (impeller stack, mechanical seal, spring etc.). Fired back up and it runs fine now. Actually had about 15 more operating psi than before we tore it down. (?).

The internal parts looked fine; a bit rusty but otherwise fine.

Now I don't know what to do next.

Have a replacement setup like suggested on hand complete if problem comes back?

Have electrician test the complete circuit ?

 

[MEP001]

Did you ever test with an amp meter? You could have an issue with the wiring, and you'll never know if you don't do a load test on the motor.

 

[pitzerwm]

A clamp on amp gauge is a must if you are dealing with any electrical appliances. You instantly know if AC power is flowing. And how much.