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High Pressure Floats for Wash Tank

W

washregal

Member
I am currently using a Hydrominder 573 HP float - I have had issues with this unit at (2) of my locations.

(1) The unit at my one location I have had failures where I have had to rebuild the unit a couple of times as well as replace - The unit will stick at times not come on leaving my wash tank empty - customers will run pumps dry (Not Good)

(2) at the other location I have had overflows where the unit will not shut off - and flow over - HP water for a long period of time amounts to huge water / sewer bills. This seems to occur when I have the hot water heater on in my wash tanks it overflows. So add gas to the cost of the water make-up as well.

Does anyone have a strong suggestion as to HP water floats for both wash and rinse tanks? I have read a few things on the JOBE units and wondered if they might be strongly recommended. I am thinking about making a sweeping change.
 
How do the Jobe Topaz floats and hudson floats react to hot temperatures? and how long have these floats been in without issue?
 
I've never had a catastrophic problem with the Watermaster valves - they've never failed full open or closed. I usually have to replace the diaphragm in the hot water ones about once a year, the cold water ones have been lasting ten years.
 
What size and model watermaster valve (Solenoid driven)? Any feedback on what has been successful for HP wash tanks would be great - I need something that can handle the hot water temp as well.. I have had catostrophic failure using hydrominder 571..
 
washregal said:
How do the Jobe Topaz floats and hudson floats react to hot temperatures? and how long have these floats been in without issue?
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I got the Hudson after viewing thoughts on the forum. They have been in service 6 months without any issues. FWIW I think the Tunnle ones in the "Break Tank" cycle mutch more frequently than the SS. So far no issues - Hot or cold.
 
I had the same exact issue. Used 573 model for years, but then I kept having issues with the tank not filling. After trying 3 different 573 units, finally figured out that they cannot handle hot water. Switched to the $30 Hudson valve from KR and haven't had an issue since. Bought a spare just in case, but no issues in almost one year now. Just put another Hudson in my other wash. They can handle hot water work great. Good luck.
 
This is great news.. thank you for all the feedback on this.. I broke down and paid the 27.00 and change to KR today for a 1" High Temp Hudson valve.. will give it a shot and hope to replace all my 573's.. What a savings it will be if it works. - I will report back on the progress of the valve. Thank you everyone for the feedback on this string.. greatly appreciated.
 
You will be amazed how good a cheap valve can work. I lost my mind trying to figure out what was wrong with the 573. Every time I tried something, I would just wait by the phone until I got another call saying there was no water coming out.
 
I hope you guys have better luck with the Hudson valves than we did, we had nothing but problems with them a few years ago, we went back to the Walters valve.
 
slash007 said:
I had the same exact issue. Used 573 model for years, but then I kept having issues with the tank not filling. After trying 3 different 573 units, finally figured out that they cannot handle hot water. Switched to the $30 Hudson valve from KR and haven't had an issue since. Bought a spare just in case, but no issues in almost one year now. Just put another Hudson in my other wash. They can handle hot water work great. Good luck.
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The problems I saw when we tried the big Hydrominders on new equipment were from excessive pressure from the heated water causing the valve to not open. We battled the problem on several washes for months, and I finally figured it out one day when I pulled the lever on the boiler TPR valve and the Hydrominder opened.
 
Update. Busiest SS day since I switched the Rinse tank to Hudson Float Valve. One of 8 Bays out of order. Hudson Float valve could not keep up (Never had an issue with the Hydro 573. ) I will use a "T" with 2 Hudson Valves which solved the issue when one could not handle it in the Tunnel Break Tank.
 
Newest update. Hudson Failed at SS - Kept running. Double Hudson not enough for Busy day in Tunnel. Going back to 573 for Tunnels and will give a double Hudson try for SS .
 
Earl Weiss said:
Newest update. Hudson Failed at SS - Kept running. Double Hudson not enough for Busy day in Tunnel. Going back to 573 for Tunnels and will give a double Hudson try for SS .
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Have you tried the Walters valve? They can be a little more maintenance (Worst case it can slowly overfill the tank) but I've never had one fail full open or closed.
 
MEP001 said:
Have you tried the Walters valve? They can be a little more maintenance (Worst case it can slowly overfill the tank) but I've never had one fail full open or closed.
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No, was looking for a virtually no maintenance one. If I want maintenance I will stay with the 573 keeping a spare on hand along with Diaphragm kits.
 
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