Thread Hyd. Hose Thru PVC?

[Red Baron]

I'm converting my open-top SS bay to a 2nd IBA. The hoses will need to run through the attic above 2 SS bays. Should I thread the hydraulic hoses through PVC where they run above the SS bays just in case I blow a hose? I can envision a big problem if I blow a hyd hose and fluid dripped for days into a SS bay and/or onto a customer. Having the hyd hose sleeved would force any hyd fluid to drip out at the ends where I can control it.

Thoughts?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Sound like a good idea to me. An added benefit would be when replacement time comes. You could just couple the new hose to the old one and pull it through instead of climbing around in the rafters with big ole heavy hose getting tangled up in everything.

 

[DiamondWash]

Sound like a good idea to me. An added benefit would be when replacement time comes. You could just couple the new hose to the old one and pull it through instead of climbing around in the rafters with big ole heavy hose getting tangled up in everything.

I agree that sounds like the way to do it.

 

[MEP001]

I've seen it done that way. Not only will it prevent spraying of oil everywhere if a hose breaks, the hose won't cut through against the PVC pipe.

 

[Red Baron]

We do it that way when we reroof tall buildings. We did a demo of our roof spray rig at a roofing convention in Kansas City back in the 70's. It was a tall building and the 100R1 hose - even though it was new - developed a pinhole. The cost to cleanup the glass front was enormous!

Since then standard recommendation to customers spraying tall buildings is to thread their 100R1 asphalt hose through some 2" ribbed hose where it goes over the face of the building. If you blow a hose the asphalt just runs out the bottom of the hose.

 

[Dray27]

Red, I belive we have been using 1 1/2 in or 2 in vac hose to sleeve the hoses you might give E a call but i'm pretty sure thats how they have been doing it

 

[dreese]

Personally, I'd run it in stainless tubing secured to the rafters with unistrut channel and hydrazorb clamps - you wouldn't have to worry about any leaks caused by the hoses rubbing in the tubing then. Short hoses at each end of the tubing would then be sized the same for ease of change as needed.

 

[borumrm]

I agree with the stainless tubing .... I actually have galvanized piping for my setup not sure which would be cheaper but you won't ever have to change it and you only deal with short runs of hose on each end.

 

[DavidM]

Stainless tubing is the way to go. We use that at our tunnel wash, it is much better than long runs of hose.

David

 

[BoomerSooner]

Red, I belive we have been using 1 1/2 in or 2 in vac hose to sleeve the hoses you might give E a call but i'm pretty sure thats how they have been doing it

Actually DRay, this is used for the HP hose on the Q in the energy chain. Red, I think that stainless steel would be the best way, except it will cost a lot more up front. If you do the PVC, go with a 3-4 pvc to ensure when you replace the other hose, you can pull it thru with no issues. Pulling a 3/4 or 1 inch hose can be a little difficult in a 1 1/2- 2 inch pipe.

 

[Red Baron]

Actually DRay, this is used for the HP hose on the Q in the energy chain. Red, I think that stainless steel would be the best way, except it will cost a lot more up front. If you do the PVC, go with a 3-4 pvc to ensure when you replace the other hose, you can pull it thru with no issues. Pulling a 3/4 or 1 inch hose can be a little difficult in a 1 1/2- 2 inch pipe.

Good point. Actually I thought I'd run the 2 hyd hoses in separate PVC sleeves, so that I can easily tell which one blew.

 

[MEP001]

I thought I would mention a trick that minimizes the mess made by a blown hose. When you're filling the unit, do it with the override switch on. When the float switch closes it will come on, then if you blow a line while it's running it will only lose about a pint before it shuts down. There's no point in letting it spray several gallons of oil everywhere.

 

[Ric]

I used stainless steel tubing overhead in my tunnel. I made a 90 degree turn down towards the equipment and used hose from that point. I never had a failure in the stainless. I took it one step further and used aqualube (water soluble) fluid in the lines. When I did have a line break it would wash down very easy.

 

[borumrm]

If you run it thru PVC pipe and it busts in the middle of the run how will you tell which hose it is? If you run the stainless tubing or galvanized pipe then the only hose will be that on each end

 

[Ric]

If you run it thru PVC pipe and it busts in the middle of the run how will you tell which hose it is? If you run the stainless tubing or galvanized pipe then the only hose will be that on each end

Good point. I bought a wash years ago in which they ran the hp hoses and tubing to the bays thru 4" pvc. What a nightmare when it came time to make a repair. I finally changed it all out to a trough with a lid so I could find and make the repairs easily.

 

[Red Baron]

The D&S i5000 has 2 hyd hoses and I'd run them thru separate PVC pipes for that reason. Whichever pipe has hyd fluid running out the end, that's the one!

My thinking is that I'd rather have a little more hassle changing a hose than to risk a hyd hose leak over a SS bay that gets fluid in a customer's car, or the customer, and drips for days as it ran across R-panel ceilings.