What's new

Saving energy and money

bigleo48

Active member
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
1,887
Reaction score
0
Points
36
The 250W 480V pulls about the same amps as the 55W 120V bulb but a watt is a watt regardless of voltage. All power companies bill by the watt so the 250W bulb will cost 4.55 times as much to run as the 55W.
Doug,

"All power companies bill by the watt " Sorta - power companies bill by the Kwh (one thousand watts consumed in one hour, the more watts consumed during the hour, the more you are charged), the time factor is important as it considers Volt-Amp-Hours. A watt is a unit of energy that comprises Voltage, Current and the last important bit, Time.

The whole mini-fluorescent industry is filled with misconception surrounding power savings and it takes special equipment to read actual power consumed due to certain distoring conditions such as bounce on reactive loads. So I'm my case (with a 3phase, 600V service), it would be difficult to determine actual consumtion with somewhat equal lighting effect. I guess I would likely need to do it at the meter as a before & after. With 32 MH fixtures, I'm not willing to spend the $ to find out.

BigLeo
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,667
Reaction score
3,937
Points
113
Location
Texas
Doug P. said:
All power companies bill by the watt
That's true, but they measure by the amperage draw. I've been told by people who work for the utility company that lesser amperage at the same wattage is cheaper to operate, and I believe I've confirmed that by converting a wash from fluorescent at 120V to metal halide at 240V. I replaced 24 75W tubes (only 5 of which were working) with 12 340W metal halides, and by the wattage math his electric bill should have gone up at least $200 a month, but it only went up $30. His income also increased 15% in the same period, which alone could account for the higher bill.
 

Doug P.

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
136
Reaction score
17
Points
18
The "Demand" line on your electric is another charge beside the KWH charge. The demand charge is generally only a fraction of your total bill but when you make your money a quarter at a time everything needs to be considered. Higher voltage will result in a lower demand(measured by amperage) and a lower demand can result in a lower bill. Some of my electric bills have a demand charge itemized and some do not. The demand factor is one reason why your dryer motors come on staggered.

Question- How many seconds do you need to stagger dryer motors to keep the demand as low as possible? I guess you could measure the amperage when the motor kicks on and see how long it takes to stabilize but I have never taken the time to do that.
 

Greg Pack

Wash Weenie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
4,159
Reaction score
1,819
Points
113
Location
Hoover, Alabama
FYI, a couple of month ago I called my utility and had them fax me a breakdown. Here goes:

Energy charge first 10kwh 591.63
Energy charge At lower rate 17.73
Demand Charge 117.60
Fuel Charge 324.56
Utility License tax 18.46
Al Tax adjustment -27.94
Al Gross receipts tax 40.86
Natural Disaster Reserve 1.86


Total 1084.76

Area lighting not included(about another 110.00)
 

Waxman

Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
5,869
Reaction score
1,375
Points
113
Location
Orange, MA
Okay, I scrolled thru all previous posts and looked in Grainger. Maybe I am just slow, but I've tried a few places and cannot find the 65w, cfl, wall-pak style for $45-50. Even my electrician is stumped.
 

Shorco1

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
129
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
nc
Okay, I scrolled thru all previous posts and looked in Grainger. Maybe I am just slow, but I've tried a few places and cannot find the 65w, cfl, wall-pak style for $45-50. Even my electrician is stumped.
Waxman, This is what I stated in the very first thread. The last line.

"The fixtures can be purchased at Home Depot and Lowes. I bought from Home Depot. Also, bulbs are available in 750W and 1000W. The 1000W consumes 100W."

They are area lights with 65W bulbs compact fluorescent bulbs. They are equivalent to a 500W incandescent bulb.
 

Sequoia

AKA Duane H- 3 bay SS
Joined
Sep 2, 2007
Messages
623
Reaction score
76
Points
28
Bulb ratings

I'm a big fan of compact fluorescents as I have them lighting my bays.

However, 1000bulbs.com says that 22w of CFL equals 100watts of incandescent output. If that's true, how does a 65w fixture from Home Depot put out 500w equivalent light? Seems more like it would be about 300w?
 

Shorco1

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
129
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
nc
I'm a big fan of compact fluorescents as I have them lighting my bays.

However, 1000bulbs.com says that 22w of CFL equals 100watts of incandescent output. If that's true, how does a 65w fixture from Home Depot put out 500w equivalent light? Seems more like it would be about 300w?
This bulb and fixture is sold by Lights Of America and Home Depot and other outlets It states that on the box of which the fixture came in and on the Lights of American website. I guess you'l have to dispute that with the Manufacturer. I'm just the messenger.
 

Shorco1

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
129
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
nc
65W Fluorex Yard Light
Model #9165/9166
Specifications:
Wattage 65W
Icandescent Comparison 500W
Lumens 6825
Color Temp 6500K
 

Waxman

Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
5,869
Reaction score
1,375
Points
113
Location
Orange, MA
Okay. I guess I was thinking of wall paks, not a yard light.

In your opinion, would the yard light be okay in an SS bay or not? I'm confident about my ability to seal a wall pak against water and mount it in my bays, but the yard light?
 

Shorco1

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
129
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
nc
Okay. I guess I was thinking of wall paks, not a yard light.

In your opinion, would the yard light be okay in an SS bay or not? I'm confident about my ability to seal a wall pak against water and mount it in my bays, but the yard light?
Perhaps you may want to reread the posts and look at the pictures. The yard light is used on my vac islands. I also stated that you could convert wall packs to CPF's with a 65W bulb that is used in the in the yard light or purchase a bulb that has a ballast incorperated with bulb. That's what I stated and I'm sticking to it.
 

Waxman

Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
5,869
Reaction score
1,375
Points
113
Location
Orange, MA
Is there a wall pak available that uses a 65w cpfl bulb???

That's actually what I need but can't locate.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,667
Reaction score
3,937
Points
113
Location
Texas
Waxman said:
Is there a wall pak available that uses a 65w cpfl bulb???
There's a 65W CFL intended to retrofit an HID wall-pack, but I haven't seen a specific fluorescent one.

Keep in mind that the light-per-watt output of fluorescent is equal to mercury vapor, and about half that of metal halide. You'd need 8 fluorescent wall-packs to equal the light of a single metal halide.
 

Waxman

Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
5,869
Reaction score
1,375
Points
113
Location
Orange, MA
I found what I've been looking for and will be installing a few next week to compare and contrast. Will keep you posted.
 

Sequoia

AKA Duane H- 3 bay SS
Joined
Sep 2, 2007
Messages
623
Reaction score
76
Points
28
I bought one of the 65w fluorescent "area lights" that allegedly puts out 500w of equivalent lighting. I installed this at home in a backyard area, and I am underwhelmed to say the least.

I suspect that part of the problem is that I am using it as a wall pack instead of an overhead light. I think it would work much better as an overhead. But, even so, I don't believe it puts out the equivalent of 500 watts of lighting.
 
Top