Greetings everyone, my name is Pete I’m from NE Iowa. I purchased my rural wash late last summer. 1 automatic 2 self serve. Hoping you guys can help me with my self serve pump problem. I’ve been burning up seals in my Cat 5CP2140W pumps (direct drive, gravity fed). Just the other day bay #1 went out again randomly.. This will be the third time I’ve replaced seals. 1 time Dema float valve stuck closed (Replaced with Jobe). My first thought was it’s a water fed issue starving the pumps? Or should I not be using hot water? Pumps not plumbed correctly? Also should I update my self serve setup eventually? Or just sink some money into updating this setup? This one feels like a hot mess that’s been nickel and diming me. Appreciate any advice given. Been lurking for a couple years here and have learned a lot!
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Pump problem
- Thread starter JCW
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
In how long? Have you looked down into the manifold and checked for erosion? Are you using weep guns? Are you talking about the high pressure seals or the valve o-rings?
The only minor thing I can see with your plumbing, and it doesn't cause the problem you're having but only affects the life of the pump and seals, is that you have the regulator bypass returning to the opposite side of the pump as the water inlet. This will cause a very brief cavitation every time the trigger is pulled or released.
If your water is really hot, like so hot you can't keep your hand in it for a couple seconds, either consider lowering the temperature or use a hot water seal kit.
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I have those high temp seals in my shopping cart. I was hoping to replace these check valves highlighted before the pump. One of them is showing wear. Any recommendations on what to use? I don’t see a part number on it. Just says Flomatic.
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MEP001
Well-known member
And you're putting them in the correct place? The high pressure seal into the manifold?
What about the seal casing, the brass piece? They erode and need to be replaced. You can't sand them flat like with the 310.
I use this one, I have yet to have one fail to the point it stops flow:
www.kleen-ritecorp.com
What about the seal casing, the brass piece? They erode and need to be replaced. You can't sand them flat like with the 310.
I use this one, I have yet to have one fail to the point it stops flow:
Kleen-Rite 944-430 | Brass Inline Check Valve | 1/2in. F x F
This resilient disc check valve is not lead free. It is not for use on potable applications.
What is your indication that the seals are "burned up"? When you replace your next set of seals inspect the head for erosion or wash out. If it's washed out your wasting your money putting in new seals and always replace both the low and high pressure seal at the same time. I've run into a lot of operators who will only replace one seal at a time. How hot are you running your hot water? The max temperature of the standard seals is 160 deg. any hotter than that your need the high temp seal kit.
I guess “burned up” might be the wrong terminology. I just saw damage to the high pressure seals. (i’m just assuming it’s from heat idk) My water temp is set at 110. I’ll try to take more pictures of the seals and manifold. I got caught without spare seals so they’re being shipped right now.
Question Randy, I know you’re a big fan of the Cat 310’s but I believe those are only belt driven correct? What would you recommend for direct drive?(for future reference) Or would you just recommend keeping my eye out for a used belt driven pump stand?
Question Randy, I know you’re a big fan of the Cat 310’s but I believe those are only belt driven correct? What would you recommend for direct drive?(for future reference) Or would you just recommend keeping my eye out for a used belt driven pump stand?
Well I thought I should give a conclusion to my problem earlier. I’m a little embarrassed for not checking this first. Just assumed it was a pump problem. My electric motor has hollow shaft and the key stripped and ruined the motor shaft and the pump shaft. Expensive fix!..
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